Analysis paralysis and the one-thousand dollar question

[jaygeephoto]

Thanks for your input. I'm in SE MA so NH would not really qualify as a LBS. I just need to be comfortable and be able to ride to the best of my ability with taking too much punishment on the contact points or getting frustrated with what I've bought,

 

[jaygeephoto]

Thanks Mark. I'm in SE MA so Nashua, NH may be a bit out of my way for an LBS. Ultimately I want to ride to the beat of my ability and be able to push myself a bit more each time I go out. Also I want to try and relieve some of the sore contact points which are my biggest problems on long rides. I agree about getting properly fit.

 

[mpre53]

Originally Posted by jaygeephoto .

Thanks Mark. I'm in SE MA so Nashua, NH may be a bit out of my way for an LBS. Ultimately I want to ride to the beat of my ability and be able to push myself a bit more each time I go out. Also I want to try and relieve some of the sore contact points which are my biggest problems on long rides. I agree about getting properly fit.

Spark Bike and Run in Taunton is a very good shop, that sells both Specialized and Cannondale, as well as high-end BMC road bikes. They also host both road and MTB group rides.

Scottee's in Westport is another good one.

East Providence Cycles, just over the line from Seekonk, sells Trek, Specialized and Giant.

Tri-Town Cycles in Wareham, my personal favorite LBS, sells Trek (all models) and Raleigh cross bikes.

 

[sitzmark]

Originally Posted by jaygeephoto .

So I've narrowed it down. Sort of. Looking to ride an all Carbon and I've looked at the Specialized Roubaix, Cannondale Synapse and the Felt Z5 and Z4. I need to decide because the snow will melt, some day, and it will suddenly be 80 degrees.

Bike shops I've visited have sold me on the idea that I ride enough to appreciate the difference between aluminum and all carbon. I guess they saw me coming!

I plan on riding about the same as I did last year (50~70 miles a week - hopefully more with a new bike) and some group rides.

Is Shimano 105 really worth the extra $300.00?

Does one brand give you more for your money or known to be more durable than another?

Is it OK to eat pumpkin pie for breakfast?

SE MA is a fairly big area - I too am in same basic area - you'll find MANY weekly events and ride groups around to keep you happy. CRW, SouthShore Wheelmen, and Narragansett Bay Wheelmen are great groups to hook up with ride mates who can steer you to best shops and help you figure out what activities interest you - "fitness rides", club rides, TT practice, races, etc. My key shops are Grace Bicycle (Holliston), BicyclesPlus (Franklin), Providence Bicycle (Providence/Warwick). Belmont Wheelworks and Harris Cycle are parts/accessory warehouses when you need something immediately. All are serious fitters. A bit out of the way, but also very good things to say about FastSplits in Newton - more Tri oriented, but they know their stuff.

Not too different from you - always on a bike until ~15, MTB during 30's, then nada. Started road cycling about 5 years ago (50) to ride a charity event and keep in shape for ski season. First year I converted my 20 yo MTB (XC) for street, primarily by having a precision wheelset built and swapping knobs for slicks. It was a large frame, so I was able to set it up for a decent flat bar road position. 25 lbs when I finished the conversion. I was happy and rode it for 3,000+ miles and a couple of centuries my first year while I sorted out my cycling interests. I ended up riding with the A/B groups and decided I liked cycling, so set out on the same mission you're on - - what bike?

I wanted something responsive, light, and reliable. Tried many, but there is only so much you can sort out in a 20-30 minute test ride. (Forget about parking lot test rides - waste of time.) My brother had been riding a Scott CR1 Team Issue since 2005 and when I rode that it just clicked. I located a warranty replacement 2006 CR1 frameset and set out building it up. During my search, I also located an aluminum version (S1) that has basically the same geometry, but 1 size smaller. Both are built with same kit - CR1 with carbon cockpit and S1 with alu versions of same components (Ritchey). Chose SRAM because I like D-tap, but initially built CR1 with 105. The good thing about 105 is that it has very good resale if you decide to swap it out. Tiagra is more similar to 105 now than back then, but 105 gives you 10s range rather than 9s. 105 feels more crisp to me than the Tiagra bikes I've ridden - could be all in my head.

Since the CR1 and S1 are nearly twins, it is a good comparison of CF vs. Alu. For these two bikes, they do ride different. The alu transmits more road noise. Same CF fork on both, same saddles (Fizik Antares - one carbon railed and other Kium). The CF is a smoother ride - have done 100+ mile rides on both and every time, I feel a bit more beat up after riding the S1. Not major, but noticeable. Zipp Team Issue wheelsets on both with same GP4000S 700x23. I do have a Z404 wheelset for the CR1 which really smooths out the ride (and improves my TT performances a bit). Have never ridden the 404s on the S1, so can't say if that would make any difference.

For me, it was important to know myself. I know I am a tweaker and was going to be customizing to my liking, so I set out that way. I invested in a frame and components rather than buy a complete bike and try to sell off what I didn't want. The 105 turned out to be fruitful, as I recovered almost my full purchase price for the gruppo. So, the better idea you have of where you want to end up, the better you can plan for it. With bikes (as with many things I guess) it is possible to make less and less difference for more and more $$. Assess your skills honestly and your wallet - then have fun picking what works best for you. Enjoy! Maybe see you around...

 

[mpre53]

BTW, Tiagra has been 10 speed since the 2012 model year. They also did away with the thumb button upshift, and now have the same secondary lever behind the brifter that the higher-end STI systems use.

I'm not sure, but I also think that Sora, tho still 9 speed, also did away with the thumb button for 2013??.

 

[Randyforriding]

Regarding frame material, the consensus of opinion is that aluminum bikes, generally speaking, have a harsh ride. Carbon fiber is suposed to absorb shock well. To a large degree it is a matter of frame geometry and tubing size and thickness. Here is a story about my most recent bike purchase, which could serve as an example. My taste is a little more expensive than yours, but I'm also more into riding than you seem to be, but a bit more about that in a second. I have been riding for a gazillion years and have always riden high-end steel steeds. Mostly custom. The only other frame material I had experience with was aluminum on my mountain bikes, but it was hard to make any comparison between an aluminum framed mountain bike and a steel framed road bike. I had become more and more curious about carbon fiber. Every single bike in the Tour De France has a cabon fiber frame. Carbon has become dominant in both racing and recreational riding. And cabon fiber has become more and more affordable. I decided it was time to get my feet wet in cabon fiber. To make a long story short, I bought a two thousand dollar bike and wish I had spent more. I've already dumped hundreds more into upgrading components, and that doesn't include the better wheels I already had. My feeling is that, in the long run you are better off getting the best that you can possibly afford. You will enjoy a riding it more, justifying spending the extra money. My cabon bike, though less expensive than my steel bikes, is the fastest bike I own. It is the one I choose for competitive club rides. Carbon has some faults, but I'm conviced it is the way to go.

 

[alienator]

Regarding frame material, the consensus of opinion is that aluminum bikes, generally speaking, have a harsh ride. Carbon fiber is suposed to absorb shock well. To a large degree it is a matter of frame geometry and tubing size and thickness. Here is a story about my most recent bike purchase, which could serve as an example. My taste is a little more expensive than yours, but I'm also more into riding than you seem to be, but a bit more about that in a second. I have been riding for a gazillion years and have always riden high-end steel steeds. Mostly custom. The only other frame material I had experience with was aluminum on my mountain bikes, but it was hard to make any comparison between an aluminum framed mountain bike and a steel framed road bike. I had become more and more curious about carbon fiber. Every single bike in the Tour De France has a cabon fiber frame. Carbon has become dominant in both racing and recreational riding. And cabon fiber has become more and more affordable. I decided it was time to get my feet wet in cabon fiber. To make a long story short, I bought a two thousand dollar bike and wish I had spent more. I've already dumped hundreds more into upgrading components, and that doesn't include the better wheels I already had. My feeling is that, in the long run you are better off getting the best that you can possibly afford. You will enjoy a riding it more, justifying spending the extra money. My cabon bike, though less expensive than my steel bikes, is the fastest bike I own. It is the one I choose for competitive club rides. Carbon has some faults, but I'm conviced it is the way to go.

You'll note that consensus is not the same as fact and ins't based on anything other than flaky human opinion. Alas, there is nothing inherent in carbon fiber bikes that makes them "faster". Again, it's not the bike material that is important. It's what is done with it in the bike frame. That's all.

 

[jaygeephoto]

Got a bike - finally. Cannondale Synapse Aluminum with 105's for $1,300. Providence Bicycle did a good job fitting me and now starting to buy accessories. Only thing that worries me about this bike are the somewhat cheesy looking tires and brakes, Schwalbe Lugano and Tektro R539; They both sound like characters out of a B Sci Fi movie.

Since I'm not fond of fixing flats I wondered if anyone here had any experience with either Michelin or Continental tires that claim to be more or less puncture resistant?

 

[dhk2]

Originally Posted by jaygeephoto .

Got a bike - finally. Cannondale Synapse Aluminum with 105's for $1,300. Providence Bicycle did a good job fitting me and now starting to buy accessories. Only thing that worries me about this bike are the somewhat cheesy looking tires and brakes, Schwalbe Lugano and Tektro R539; They both sound like characters out of a B Sci Fi movie.

Since I'm not fond of fixing flats I wondered if anyone here had any experience with either Michelin or Continental tires that claim to be more or less puncture resistant?

I'd try to use the stock tires and wear them out. If punctures become an issue, there are lots of tires out there to try. I like GP 4000s for puncture resistance, long life, good ride and grip, and speed (low rolling resistance), but everyone seems to have their favorites. To avoid punctures, keep the pressures down below the max sidewall rating...100 psi should be plenty. If you're a heavyweight, wider tires like 25 mm running at lower pressures are better. Tires are a great place to upgrade; you'll need to do this in a few thousand miles when your back tire wears out.

Brakes, sure the Tektro's aren't the fanciest brand name, but that's true of most of the components on your bike. Your brakes may not have the ultimate precision feel, but if they enable you to stop the bike with control, that's all that really matters. Having the world's best brakes isn't going to make you faster anyway...they only stop the bike.

Important thing is to ride your new bike, enjoy it, and stop worrying about the brand name of the components on it, because none of that matters. If you ride with a group who looks down on you because your bike isn't CF and DA-equipped, you need to find a different group. Ride the bike a lot, and you'll get chances to replace lots of stuff down the road.

 

[alienator]

Schwalbe Luganos aren't bad at all. Ride them until you wear them out, and then buy something else if you want.

 

[jaygeephoto]

Thanks for the reality check. I weigh 170 lbs. and ride on lunar-scaped roads here in MA - most potholes should be patched by Columbus day. Since funds are limited I'm going with a set of Shimano shoes and pedals (SH-RO77 and PD-5700, standard stuff) for now. Safety first though - I need a tube and foldining tire. Also my Specialized Allez helmet is shoeing it's age. Since I can sweat just thinking about the summer, I need to find something reasonable that will keep me from cooking what little brains I have left.

 

[mark174ace]

Wait a minute.....wait a freaking minute. There is a place in Mass where the pot holes get fixed? Jay, can you send them up to the Cambridge / Arlington / Sommerville area? The tree lined streets where I live are pushing the slabs on concrete right out of the ground on the sidewalk and we cannot get anyone to fix them properly. If you do not walk with your head down at night you will trip or break some toes. I gave up on the small moguls being removed from my street, but I will settle for the sidewalks being repaired.

 

[jaygeephoto]

Well down here in the Attleboros they prepare the streets for paving from May until the end of August. Then when some of the best cycling weather is here in the fall they start to re-pave in earnest. Detours for already distracted drivers and an open hot buffet of bituminous concrete that promises to adhere to you and your bike make for exciting rides. We'll have to compare notes.

 

[mark174ace]

Last year I mostly ride the minute man rail trail (10.5 miles Cambridge to Bedford) 4-5 days a week and the cape cod trail a few times. I only did one road ride and that was a charity ride on the North Shore. I am looking to branch out onto to secondary rodes preferably early in the morning when there is no traffic. I also plan on doing a couple of more charity rides this year. I am not overly keen to riding with cars, but in order to do distances > 21 miles I have no choice haha.

 

[alienator]

Excellent choice on the pedals. I have PD-7900's and after having used Look, Speedplay, and, uhm, Look, the Shimanos are by far my favorite. I feel your pain on potholes. We breed them in Ohio.

 

[swampy1970]

Got a bike - finally.  Cannondale Synapse Aluminum with 105's for $1,300. Providence Bicycle did a good job fitting me and now starting to buy accessories.  Only thing that worries me about this bike are the somewhat cheesy looking tires and brakes, Schwalbe Lugano and Tektro R539; They both sound like characters out of a B Sci Fi movie. Since I'm not fond of fixing flats I wondered if anyone here had any experience with either Michelin or Continental tires that claim to be more or less puncture resistant?

Continental GP4000S. They may not be the lightest, nor do they have the lowest rolling resistance but they are a damned good tire and IMHO they're the best handling tire out there. IT's the only race tire that I've seem that can really be used as an everyday training tire. With the 'Black Chili" compound rubber, they inspire acts of seeming stupidity bordering on the lunatic whilst descending and are great in the wet. I haven't had the best of luck with the Vittoria Open CX's. A fine tire for sure but going from one puncture all year to three in a week when I did a brief change from Conti to Vittoria meant that a swift change back was in order. I haven't rode on Michellins for the past 5 years. Again, punctures in swift succession after making the swap to Pro3's from Conti Attack/Force tires. I really like the Specialized turbo butyl inner tubes with the non-threaded, smooth valve stems. It keeps the rubber inserts in my newish track pump happy. http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/tubessealant/650c-700c-27-tubes/turbo-ultra-lite-tubes-with-tac I'd run latex inner tubes if I didn't do some rides that were longer than 10 hours. A good floor pump (or track pump) should be part of your kit. I picked up a Specialized Airtool Comp last year and it's the only pump I've used that I think is actually better than the much loved Silca pumps. As long as you keep the brake pads and the braking surface on the rims clean you should be fine. You can always 'upgrade' the brake blocks so something with a bit more bite but like with most things there's rarely a free lunch. Pads that stop better often don't last as long. Then again, I'd rather replace pads more often than changing bandages... I've done the running **** brake blocks (Campag Chorus circa 1992) and still suffer from the shoulder/arm/side of house interface at speed that I had that year. Doh!