anyone got a cycling problem?



pete_mt

New Member
Jul 11, 2006
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I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
 
How do I go about sizing a mountain bike when I've been riding Hybrids & a road bike? I've heard so many different things about where you are supposed to sit on a mountain bike. I road a 17.5" hybrid & I have a 49cm road bike. I'm thinking a 16" mountain bike should be good?? I'm new to mountain biking so please help.



pete_mt said:
I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
 
pete_mt said:
I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
sorry, i'll be more clear:

i'm going to manufacture a new part or peice to fit a bike, eg one idea is an attachment to brake levers to allow u to brake when your hands are still on bar ends, so as not having to change hand position to brake.
 
Topsi1208 said:
How do I go about sizing a mountain bike when I've been riding Hybrids & a road bike? I've heard so many different things about where you are supposed to sit on a mountain bike. I road a 17.5" hybrid & I have a 49cm road bike. I'm thinking a 16" mountain bike should be good?? I'm new to mountain biking so please help.
as to what size frame u need, it'll depend on what ytpe of terrain or type of cycling (down hill/cross country etc) u intend to do. also, the best thing is to get out there and test ride as many different sizes, types as possible. most bike shops can tell u all you need to know.
 
OK, I'm putting together a new hybrid. It will have a 7 gear cluster but I only put 1 large (52T) ring on the crank. (it was designed for 2)

Will I have problems shifting to the low gear and if so, how do I cure it.
 
peter nap said:
OK, I'm putting together a new hybrid. It will have a 7 gear cluster but I only put 1 large (52T) ring on the crank. (it was designed for 2)

Will I have problems shifting to the low gear and if so, how do I cure it.
Try it out to see if problems occur, but if they do, you may need to put a front derraileur on to hold the chain on the front chainrings, just enough to stop it slipping off when you reach the extremities of your cassette.
 
pete_mt said:
I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
bars with a shape to fit more eronomically so my wrists arent at an un-natrual bend and my hands dont go numb..

ive tried flat bars, low raise at differnt angles, specialized padded gloves ect.. still get thenumbness to some extent..
 
My problem is finding a comfortable saddle for long distances. Right now after about an hour, my privates are screaming!


pete_mt said:
I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
 
Topsi1208 said:
My problem is finding a comfortable saddle for long distances. Right now after about an hour, my privates are screaming!
ever try adjusting the angle of the saddle? that made a huge difference for me..
 
nismo driver said:
bars with a shape to fit more eronomically so my wrists arent at an un-natrual bend and my hands dont go numb..

ive tried flat bars, low raise at differnt angles, specialized padded gloves ect.. still get thenumbness to some extent..
just wondering if u have tried changing the angle of your brake levers and gear levers, ie twisting them round the handle bars to lift or lower them.
 
pete_mt said:
just wondering if u have tried changing the angle of your brake levers and gear levers, ie twisting them round the handle bars to lift or lower them.
i usually keep them in a position that they can be most easily used with out being in the way i guess it would be at about a 4 o'clock position if you looked the bars from the side right side profile of the bike

i dont ride with a tight grip unless its necessary so sometimes i rest my hands on the bars so my fingers are streached out or i grip inside the controls.. or other was of gripping to try and get a straighter angle on my wrist lie bent elbows ect.. i plan on getting bar ends to help the situation but some terrain doesnt really make it possbile to use bar ends
 
nismo driver said:
i usually keep them in a position that they can be most easily used with out being in the way i guess it would be at about a 4 o'clock position if you looked the bars from the side right side profile of the bike

i dont ride with a tight grip unless its necessary so sometimes i rest my hands on the bars so my fingers are streached out or i grip inside the controls.. or other was of gripping to try and get a straighter angle on my wrist lie bent elbows ect.. i plan on getting bar ends to help the situation but some terrain doesnt really make it possbile to use bar ends
ive got some really comfy bar ends and use them on road and mountain rigs. i always felt comfy resting on the ends of my handle bars and these have been awesome, i keep my hands on them most of the time especially when cruising and have adapted my brakes so i can grab them when on the bar ends. here is a photo of the set up (see atachment). the bar ends are called Cane Creek Ergo Control Bar End Grip II, see wiggle.co.uk, definately worth the money, or at last trying them if possible.
 
pete_mt said:
ive got some really comfy bar ends and use them on road and mountain rigs. i always felt comfy resting on the ends of my handle bars and these have been awesome, i keep my hands on them most of the time especially when cruising and have adapted my brakes so i can grab them when on the bar ends. here is a photo of the set up (see atachment). the bar ends are called Cane Creek Ergo Control Bar End Grip II, see wiggle.co.uk, definately worth the money, or at last trying them if possible.
nice use of a the brake pads!

i tried a similar short side grip like that but shaped differntly, forgot what make they were, those look prety nice, maybe ill look into that, thanks..
 
pete_mt said:
I am doing a project which involves solving a problem that has something to do with cycling

In fact it doesn't have to be a problem, it could just be something you would like to see.

I would greatly appreciate help in this matter because I am struggling with ideas,:confused: thank you very much.
I have an '05 Specialized FSR XC. The rear travel is specified at 100mm. The stock front fork (a so, so Manitou Axel Comp) is also 100mm. If I wanted to upgrade to a Fox Float 130 XTT or some such larger travel fork (but probably not over 140mm) should I look to upgrade the rear shock to increase that 100mm of rear travel? The geometry of the bike is such that the FSR suspension actually will travel more than 100mm....I can hike the bike up higher in theory. I've been told by a couple of experienced full sus. riders that you should always keep the geometry the same..meaning..keep the travel the same front and rear. Makes sense. So my question is specific to this particular bike. Would increasing the rear travel with a longer shock cause undue stress on the rear suspension unit if i need to match the front travel?
 

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