applying decals after paint

[tonyfranciozi]

Just finished painting a frame with what I'm fairly certain is laquer
paint (dupli color automotive touch up). My questions are: 1. how
long do I need to wait before applying decals and 2. should I scuff
sand before applying decals? Will applying the decals too early trap
escapong vapors and cause paint damage? Also, I will be applying a
clear coat over the decals.

thanks for any info

 

[still me]

On 4 May 2007 07:46:10 -0700, tonyfranciozi <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Just finished painting a frame with what I'm fairly certain is laquer
>paint (dupli color automotive touch up).

Yes, it is.

> My questions are: 1. how
>long do I need to wait before applying decals

A couple days is probably enough. Longer won't hurt, you want all the
solvents to evaporate. Lacquer looses it's solvents quickly.

>and 2. should I scuff
>sand before applying decals?

No, but you should rub down the bike with a light polishing compound
to finish off the lacquer. Don't use rubbing compound. You could try
polishing compound. (US terminology). If you're really into it, visit
the auto body store and get a selection from around 1200 up to 1800.
Go light with the aggressive stuff. You may end up going through the
paint and respraying. The nice thing about lacquer is that there is no
problem blending. buffing out between coats is what give you a nice
finish.

>Will applying the decals too early trap
>escapong vapors and cause paint damage?

Or decal damage. Give it a few days.

>Also, I will be applying a
>clear coat over the decals.

Definitely buff before decals and clear coat. The clear coat is really
just protection for the spectacular finish you create underneath.


>thanks for any info

 

[A Muzi]

tonyfranciozi wrote:
> Just finished painting a frame with what I'm fairly certain is laquer
> paint (dupli color automotive touch up). My questions are: 1. how
> long do I need to wait before applying decals and 2. should I scuff
> sand before applying decals? Will applying the decals too early trap
> escapong vapors and cause paint damage? Also, I will be applying a
> clear coat over the decals.

Follow directions for your clear. Basically as soon as the finish has
flashed you can mount the transfers and clear it, normally 4~8 hours.

Once the finish is fully hardened, especially with modern glossy
solvent-resistant finishes, you'll have to wetsand the gloss away to get
any adhesion for your clear. Avoid that if possible as it is tedious.

There's no difference between clear over four-hour paint or clear over
wetsanded hard paint. Clear over glossy hard paint can just fall off.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[[email protected]]

right! rusto and several other brand names write directions on the
back telling you that a thin color/topcoat may be followed with or
"resprayed" with a second coat within a suggested time frame: as for
example not more than an hour. Then the factory suggests NOT
respraying after the hour's gone by but to wait a day or more or in
rusto's case several weeks in the Chihuahuan desert before trying a
second coat.
The first hour is uhuh to be ignored mostly as the hour is highly
variable. What the factory suggests in that you try the second coat
while the first coat is stll "tacky" that is when touching the coat
with a finder tip, the paint tends to grip your skin as you pull the
fingertip off the paint. Is called a "tack coat" The paint bonds
together in the hour time frame, afterwards the coats do not bond. If
you find an explanation of why not let us know.
I guess a 'jibe coat' is when...

 

[Donald Gillies]

I was in the shop of a master painter as they applied vintage decals
to MASI's and Raleighs. Right before applying the decals, they ran
over the decal area with lacquer thinner (or choose your favorite
solvent) with a DAMP rag, to reactivate the paint and to help the
decal to stick better. You should wet-sand after each coat anyway
just to remove surface imperfections and bumps, etc.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

 

[[email protected]]

Right before applying the decals, they ran
> over the decal area with lacquer thinner (or choose your favorite
> solvent) with a DAMP rag, to reactivate the paint and to help the
> decal to stick better.

getting stoned on lacquer thinner beats sanding htats fersuer.
but question: can paint be "reactivated"?

 

[Sir Ridesalot]

On May 5, 1:55 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> right! rusto and several other brand names write directions on the
> back telling you that a thin color/topcoat may be followed with or
> "resprayed" with a second coat within a suggested time frame: as for
> example not more than an hour. Then the factory suggests NOT
> respraying after the hour's gone by but to wait a day or more or in
> rusto's case several weeks in the Chihuahuan desert before trying a
> second coat.
> The first hour is uhuh to be ignored mostly as the hour is highly
> variable. What the factory suggests in that you try the second coat
> while the first coat is stll "tacky" that is when touching the coat
> with a finder tip, the paint tends to grip your skin as you pull the
> fingertip off the paint. Is called a "tack coat" The paint bonds
> together in the hour time frame, afterwards the coats do not bond. If
> you find an explanation of why not let us know.
> I guess a 'jibe coat' is when...


Hi there.

Applying a new coat with some paints that have set up for over an hour
yet not fully cured can lead to the new coat shrinking the previous
coat which can then lead to the paint cracklling. I always thoght that
so called crackle finishes on bike frames looked liked poorly applied
or rushed paint jobs.

Peter

 

[Ozark Bicycle]

On May 5, 11:09 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Right before applying the decals, they ran
>
> > over the decal area with lacquer thinner (or choose your favorite
> > solvent) with a DAMP rag, to reactivate the paint and to help the
> > decal to stick better.
>
> getting stoned on lacquer thinner beats sanding htats fersuer.
> but question: can paint be "reactivated"?



If someone sniffs enough lacquer thinner, can their brain be
"reactivated'? :-o

 

[Donald Gillies]

"[email protected]" <[email protected]> writes:

> Right before applying the decals, they ran
>> over the decal area with lacquer thinner (or choose your favorite
>> solvent) with a DAMP rag, to reactivate the paint and to help the
>> decal to stick better.

>getting stoned on lacquer thinner beats sanding htats fersuer.
>but question: can paint be "reactivated"?

Ok, I meant "soften and partially dissolve", not "reactivate", ok?

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

 

[A Muzi]

> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Right before applying the decals, they ran
>>> over the decal area with lacquer thinner (or choose your favorite
>>> solvent) with a DAMP rag, to reactivate the paint and to help the
>>> decal to stick better.
>> getting stoned on lacquer thinner beats sanding htats fersuer.
>> but question: can paint be "reactivated"?

Ozark Bicycle wrote:
> If someone sniffs enough lacquer thinner, can their brain be
> "reactivated'? :-o

Doesn't seem to work as far as I can tell.
Gene?
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971