Originally Posted by jsirabella .
... What is the name of that tool? I believe I can pretty much make the measurements on my own while on the bike....
The tool to make direct joint angle measurements is called a Goniometer, it's basically a protractor with extended arms that you line up with various limbs or the torso. I doubt you'll be able to make decent measurements of yourself, that would be difficult. You're not likely to find one at staples, but they're cheap and readily available on line or at medical supply shops, they look like this: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=goniometer&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US
fficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16107155426981305259&sa=X&ei=6qArTqPkC5HAsAOx49DeCg&ved=0CDMQ8wIwAQ
Though the really nice ones have long extendable metal arms for measuring longer spans which is helpful for measuring hip angles but again I doubt you could make that measurement on yourself.
Personally I shoot video from the side with the camera leveled and square to the bike and on a tripod about three feet high. The bike should be on a trainer and with blocks below the front tire to keep the bike level with respect to the ground. I shoot video instead of stills because folks tend to shift around a bit under load so you want to be riding at representative riding power not posing or spinning air. Extract frames of interest (bottom of pedal stroke, as in leg fully extended which means closer to 5 oclock, not 6 oclock position, top of pedal stroke for minimum knee angles, on the hoods, in the drops, etc.) and measure the angles in an image editing tool like Photoshop. It's easier to do than it is to explain but as you're in the film industry you can probably work it out or know someone who can help you work it out.
BTW, even with your saddle tipped up a bit it's very likely that shifting forward costs you in saddle height. It's hard to explain without a diagram, but because of the seat to bottom bracket and pedal relationship moving a cm forward in the saddle on a nominal 55-56 cm frame effectively lowers the saddle height by roughly a cm. So unless you've got an awful lot of uptilt in your saddle you're still likely shortening the effective saddle to pedal distance at full extension by sliding forward and riding the rivet.
Definitely make measurements in both the drops and the tops. That's really the point of my earlier post. A lot of folks fit a bike to the tops or brake hoods and don't really expect riders to spend much time in the drops outside of fast coasting descents. But if you really want to ride and sustain power for any length of time in the drops then you should fit well in the drops and the fit will be extra comfortable when riding up on the hoods or the tops as your hip angle will open up even further. So competitive cyclists should be fitted well for riding in the drops and then the fit should be double checked for the tops but that part is easy.
....maybe I should use my bday gift and get a better fitting by a specialist! LOL.
Best idea of all...
-Dave