Arghhh should i just wack it with a hammer

[trek-man]

G'day all
Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.

 

[Peter Signorini]

"trek-man" wrote:
>
> G'day all
> Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame
> before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled
> the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at
> them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont
> want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.

Not a difficult task at all.

Equip yourself with a large hammer and cold chisel or large slot-head
screwdriver. Place the frame on a bench so that the head tube lies free over
the edge of the bench. Or scure it in a bike workstnd by the top/down tube.

Insert cold chisel/screwdriver into head tube to catch the inside edge of
the race. Tap (not bash) it gently with the hammer, working on opposite
sides all around the race. You should steadily work the race out. Up-end
frame and repeat for other race.

I have also re-fitted races with basic gear, by press fitting races into the
head, with the lower race sitting on a timber bench and a piece of timber on
the top race. Then use a hammer/mallet to gentle tap the race into the tube,
then increasing the force to ram it home. A good vice with two planks of
timber is another way to do this. Technically the ends of the head tube
should be 'faced' with a special tool (LBS) to ensure they are parrallel,
but I've never had a problem on several bikes I've done this to.

Cheers
Peter

 

[dave]

trek-man wrote:
> G'day all
> Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame
> before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled
> the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at
> them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont
> want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.
>
>
you need to drift em out from the opposite side..

Do you know what I mean or do you need a better description?

 

[Peter Signorini]

"Peter Signorini" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Equip yourself with a large hammer and cold chisel or large slot-head
> screwdriver. Place the frame on a bench so that the head tube lies free
> over the edge of the bench. Or scure it in a bike workstnd by the top/down
> tube.

Oops. A bit unclear. What I meant is that you hold the frame (either on a
bench or in a vice) with the head tube vertical and the race unsupported.
Hope most people could work that bit out??

Cheers
Peter

 

[Racing Echidna]

On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:40:01 +1000, trek-man
<[email protected]> wrote in aus.bicycle:

>
>G'day all
>Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame
>before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled
>the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at
>them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont
>want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.

As people have mentioned you knock them out from the other side.

You can make a really handy tool from a piece of pipe with say 1 mm
thick walls and a diameter just smaller than the hole in the race and
twice the length of the head stem. Make sure the end is square, then
make several hacksaw cuts about a third to a half down the length of
the pipe. Spring out the cut ends so they are wider than the head set.

All you do is push the uncut end of the pipe into the race you want
to remove push it right in so the cut end springs out inside the race
then hit the other end with a hammer and bingo , the race pops out
with no chance of distorting it. Makes the job so easy and the tool
takes minutes to make.


Regards
Prickles

 

[trek-man]

Thank you for the sage words, i have an ex tyre lever that should work a treat. A gentle tap to start then i,ll get progressive till something gives. I thought this would be my next step and hopefully shouldnt be to hard. The PO of this bike needs to be strung up by a sensitive part of their anatomy, i had to replace the forks because the old stem was rusted solid into the end of the steerer. The old girl will live to sing again.

cheers
Mick

 

[Ray Peace]

trek-man wrote:
> G'day all
> Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame
> before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled
> the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at
> them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont
> want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.
>
>
Greetings,
They are indeed a tolerance fit. Hammer is right, but use a bit of old
wood as well so you don't damage the metal. Stick the head tube in a
vice and give them the full treatment.
Cheers,
Ray.

 

[SteveA]

On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:40:01 +1000, trek-man
<[email protected]> wrote in aus.bicycle:

>
>G'day all
>Im trying to remove the remains of a headset from the project frame
>before i send it off for painting. Im left with what i think are caled
>the top and bottom races ?????? stuck in the head tube. From looking at
>them it looks like they are pressed in or something they certainly dont
>want to move for me. Any ideas anyone.

As people have mentioned you knock them out from the other side.

You can make a really handy tool from a piece of pipe with say 1 mm
thick walls and a diameter just smaller than the hole in the race and
twice the length of the head stem. Make sure the end is square, then
make several hacksaw cuts about a third to a half down the length of
the pipe. Spring out the cut ends so they are wider than the head set.

All you do is push the uncut end of the pipe into the race you want
to remove push it right in so the cut end springs out inside the race
then hit the other end with a hammer and bingo , the race pops out
with no chance of distorting it. Makes the job so easy and the tool
takes minutes to make.


Regards
Prickles

Here is a piccy of the shop bought one from Park Tools. Easy enough to make your own.

http://www.parktool.com/tools/RT_1.shtml

SteveA

 

[Peter Signorini]

"SteveA" wrote:
>
> Racing Echidna Wrote:
>> On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:40:01 +1000, trek-man

>> You can make a really handy tool from a piece of pipe with say 1 mm
>> thick walls and a diameter just smaller than the hole in the race and
>> twice the length of the head stem. Make sure the end is square, then
>> make several hacksaw cuts about a third to a half down the length of
>> the pipe. Spring out the cut ends so they are wider than the head set.
>>
>> All you do is push the uncut end of the pipe into the race you want
>> to remove push it right in so the cut end springs out inside the race
>> then hit the other end with a hammer and bingo , the race pops out
>> with no chance of distorting it. Makes the job so easy and the tool
>> takes minutes to make.
>>
>>
>> Regards
>> Prickles
>
>
> Here is a piccy of the shop bought one from Mr Park Tools. Easy enough
> to make your own.

You missed the link to that picture. Never mind, I'm guessing it's like this
http://www.parktool.com/tools/RT_1.shtml

used like this:
http://www.parktool.com/tools/RT_1BIG.shtml

If I did lots of head bearing cup swapping I could justify one. But I'll
stick with the cold chisel in my tool box.

Cheers
Peter

 

[SteveA]

"SteveA" wrote:
>
> Racing Echidna Wrote:
>> On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:40:01 +1000, trek-man

>> You can make a really handy tool from a piece of pipe with say 1 mm
>> thick walls and a diameter just smaller than the hole in the race and
>> twice the length of the head stem. Make sure the end is square, then
>> make several hacksaw cuts about a third to a half down the length of
>> the pipe. Spring out the cut ends so they are wider than the head set.
>>
>> All you do is push the uncut end of the pipe into the race you want
>> to remove push it right in so the cut end springs out inside the race
>> then hit the other end with a hammer and bingo , the race pops out
>> with no chance of distorting it. Makes the job so easy and the tool
>> takes minutes to make.
>>
>>
>> Regards
>> Prickles
>
>
> Here is a piccy of the shop bought one from Mr Park Tools. Easy enough
> to make your own.

You missed the link to that picture. Never mind, I'm guessing it's like this
http://www.parktool.com/tools/RT_1.shtml

used like this:
http://www.parktool.com/tools/RT_1BIG.shtml

If I did lots of head bearing cup swapping I could justify one. But I'll
stick with the cold chisel in my tool box.

Cheers
Peter

Peter,

you must have been quick to read my post! I posted without the link, immediately realized, and edited and reposted with the link.

I guess the cold chisel would ideally have a blade width that was very close to the internal diameter of the headtube so it would sit on both sides of the cup at once, but would have a shaft diameter that cleared the inside diameter of the opposite cup.

I couldn't justify the cost of the Park item, but I think I might have a go at making my own version of it for a couple of bucks.

SteveA

 

[trek-man]

Thanks heaps guys, i tried persuading it with a hamemr and screwdriver with no joy, but heaps of swearing. I then took it to the LBS/everything else, store in town here and asked them if theyve ever had any success with these. Lo and behold he whipped out a park tool as described and twenty seconds later job was done.

Relieved
Mick

Peter,

you must have been quick to read my post! I posted without the link, immediately realized, and edited and reposted with the link.

I guess the cold chisel would ideally have a blade width that was very close to the internal diameter of the headtube so it would sit on both sides of the cup at once, but would have a shaft diameter that cleared the inside diameter of the opposite cup.

I couldn't justify the cost of the Park item, but I think I might have a go at making my own version of it for a couple of bucks.

SteveA