J
J. Matt
Guest
I've just purchased a set of new machine-built mountain bike wheels with the intention of rebuilding
them before use. The spoke tension on the front wheel seems very low, while the tension on the rear
wheel seems somewhat high. I'm assessing the tensions by comparing the tone of the spokes when
plucked to a well-built wheel. The well-built wheel sounds a B2 on an electronic guitar tuner.
During a brief stint working in a bike shop several years ago, the mechanics when unboxing a new
bike would brace the wheel against their thighs and in a controlled fashion do a manuever using
their hands and forearms that would seem like they were trying to taco the wheel. During this
manuever, the wheel would often ping or creak. This, according to the mechanics, was a sign of a
cheaply built wheel that needed attention. When I did this manuever to the wheelset I've just
purchased, there was a good deal of creaking and pinging.
My plan is to detension the spokes to the point where the threads just show, and then to loosely
follow Sheldon Brown's instructions on his site from "Initial Tensioning" forward. The spokes seem
to be flush against the hub right after the bend but I can't imagine anyone has gone by hand and
bent them.
I'm concerned about several things. First, if the spokes threads have been properly lubed. How can I
tell, and if I use a very thin lube like ProLink, will it penetrate the threads without me having to
totally undo the spoke?
Also, since the tension seems high on the rear wheel, is there a chance the rim will be warped?
Would I be better off riding the set until problems arise or is preventitive building preferable?
Anything else I should be aware of? This will be my sixth build and while my wheels are never
perfectly true, they have been incredibly durable.
Thanks in advance
John Matthew
them before use. The spoke tension on the front wheel seems very low, while the tension on the rear
wheel seems somewhat high. I'm assessing the tensions by comparing the tone of the spokes when
plucked to a well-built wheel. The well-built wheel sounds a B2 on an electronic guitar tuner.
During a brief stint working in a bike shop several years ago, the mechanics when unboxing a new
bike would brace the wheel against their thighs and in a controlled fashion do a manuever using
their hands and forearms that would seem like they were trying to taco the wheel. During this
manuever, the wheel would often ping or creak. This, according to the mechanics, was a sign of a
cheaply built wheel that needed attention. When I did this manuever to the wheelset I've just
purchased, there was a good deal of creaking and pinging.
My plan is to detension the spokes to the point where the threads just show, and then to loosely
follow Sheldon Brown's instructions on his site from "Initial Tensioning" forward. The spokes seem
to be flush against the hub right after the bend but I can't imagine anyone has gone by hand and
bent them.
I'm concerned about several things. First, if the spokes threads have been properly lubed. How can I
tell, and if I use a very thin lube like ProLink, will it penetrate the threads without me having to
totally undo the spoke?
Also, since the tension seems high on the rear wheel, is there a chance the rim will be warped?
Would I be better off riding the set until problems arise or is preventitive building preferable?
Anything else I should be aware of? This will be my sixth build and while my wheels are never
perfectly true, they have been incredibly durable.
Thanks in advance
John Matthew