Avid Juicy 7 or 5 - bleeding the Master Cylinder and Reservoir _ guidance requested

[PlumbusPedis]

Looking for help on bleeding 2005 Avid Juicy Seven disc brakes. I
really want to keep these so buying another set or brand is not on the
table right now. I have the bleed kit with two sets of instructions.
One is a large folded sheet and the other letter size. The letter size
page is the "revised" version. Strangely, when I go to the
Flash-crazy SRAM website, they only have the old version. My first
assumption was that I should follow the more succinct revised
instructions. However, my problem actually applies to both
instructions. In the instructions it states, "Now is also a good time
to slide off the master cylinder reservoir cover." The "old"
instructions even have a picture showing what looks like a black cover
in the process of being slid off. Trouble is, my cover is cast metal,
which matches the rest of the lever assembly. It is held on with two
phillips screws. Access to the screws are blocked by handle bar.
Therefore, to remove the screws, I have to remove the grips and slide
the lever to the very end of the bar. So I did that, but the cover
doesn't exactly want to "slide" off. It looks like if I pry the
cover, I could hack/gouge the casting(s) or a seal inside. The reason
the instructions say you have to take cover off is to look for air
bubbles. So my request, to those that have gone through this experience
on the Juicy 7 or 5's, that you supply some words of wisdom/guidance
related specifically bleeding to bleeding the "Lever (Master
Cylinder and Reservoir)."

Cheers,
PB

 

[sal bass]

on hayes levers...the opening to the master cylinder points down when
the lever is mounted in the riding positon...to bleed....you loosen the
bolt and rotate the opening facing up.

in this case...avid found some problem that didn't need fixing (like
sram and positioning their limit screws facing outward) and made it
more complicated.

since the cover on the juicy brakes is obscured by the bar...you need
to loosen the bolts and THEN remove the cover....and then re-secure the
bolts...than bleed the system.

make sure to bleed from the caliper up tot he master cyclinder as
bleeding from the master cyclinder will take forever AND it never gets
all the air out...

also, make sure not to get any of the fluid on any painted surface (or
the rotors or the pads)....it'll remove the paint..

personally...i'd have someone who's done it many times, walk your
though the steps...there are a lot of steps not mentioned in the manual
that make bleeding a whole lot easier.




PlumbusPedis wrote:
> Looking for help on bleeding 2005 Avid Juicy Seven disc brakes. I
> really want to keep these so buying another set or brand is not on the
> table right now. I have the bleed kit with two sets of instructions.
> One is a large folded sheet and the other letter size. The letter size
> page is the "revised" version. Strangely, when I go to the
> Flash-crazy SRAM website, they only have the old version. My first
> assumption was that I should follow the more succinct revised
> instructions. However, my problem actually applies to both
> instructions. In the instructions it states, "Now is also a good time
> to slide off the master cylinder reservoir cover." The "old"
> instructions even have a picture showing what looks like a black cover
> in the process of being slid off. Trouble is, my cover is cast metal,
> which matches the rest of the lever assembly. It is held on with two
> phillips screws. Access to the screws are blocked by handle bar.
> Therefore, to remove the screws, I have to remove the grips and slide
> the lever to the very end of the bar. So I did that, but the cover
> doesn't exactly want to "slide" off. It looks like if I pry the
> cover, I could hack/gouge the casting(s) or a seal inside. The reason
> the instructions say you have to take cover off is to look for air
> bubbles. So my request, to those that have gone through this experience
> on the Juicy 7 or 5's, that you supply some words of wisdom/guidance
> related specifically bleeding to bleeding the "Lever (Master
> Cylinder and Reservoir)."
>
> Cheers,
> PB

 

[G.T.]

sal bass wrote:
> on hayes levers...the opening to the master cylinder points down when
> the lever is mounted in the riding positon...to bleed....you loosen the
> bolt and rotate the opening facing up.
>
> in this case...avid found some problem that didn't need fixing (like
> sram and positioning their limit screws facing outward) and made it
> more complicated.
>
> since the cover on the juicy brakes is obscured by the bar...you need
> to loosen the bolts and THEN remove the cover....and then re-secure the
> bolts...than bleed the system.

I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. I can easily see the
cover and can slide it off and off with ease while I'm riding. I've
been having trouble getting a good bleed on my rear brake and the last
couple of rides have been checking the reservoir after long descents.

And he should be using the revised manual, I followed it to a T the last
bleed and things seem to be good.

>
> make sure to bleed from the caliper up tot he master cyclinder as
> bleeding from the master cyclinder will take forever AND it never gets
> all the air out...
>
> also, make sure not to get any of the fluid on any painted surface (or
> the rotors or the pads)....it'll remove the paint..
>
> personally...i'd have someone who's done it many times, walk your
> though the steps...there are a lot of steps not mentioned in the manual
> that make bleeding a whole lot easier.
>

It's the first bit of bike maintenance in my 38 years of working on
bikes that I may start bringing my bike to a shop to do.

Greg

--
"All my time I spent in heaven
Revelries of dance and wine
Waking to the sound of laughter
Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons

 

[PlumbusPedis]

Hey guys, thanks for the advice. Most def my cover is held on with
phillips screws. No way to check on the trail. They are blocked no
matter which way I rotate the lever assy after I have loosened the
clamp screw. I am going to take your advice and take it in to an LBS I
found through a referral. They seem willing to take me through stuff
like this.

Pb

G.T. wrote:
> sal bass wrote:
> > on hayes levers...the opening to the master cylinder points down when
> > the lever is mounted in the riding positon...to bleed....you loosen the
> > bolt and rotate the opening facing up.
> >
> > in this case...avid found some problem that didn't need fixing (like
> > sram and positioning their limit screws facing outward) and made it
> > more complicated.
> >
> > since the cover on the juicy brakes is obscured by the bar...you need
> > to loosen the bolts and THEN remove the cover....and then re-secure the
> > bolts...than bleed the system.
>
> I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. I can easily see the
> cover and can slide it off and off with ease while I'm riding. I've
> been having trouble getting a good bleed on my rear brake and the last
> couple of rides have been checking the reservoir after long descents.
>
> And he should be using the revised manual, I followed it to a T the last
> bleed and things seem to be good.
>
> >
> > make sure to bleed from the caliper up tot he master cyclinder as
> > bleeding from the master cyclinder will take forever AND it never gets
> > all the air out...
> >
> > also, make sure not to get any of the fluid on any painted surface (or
> > the rotors or the pads)....it'll remove the paint..
> >
> > personally...i'd have someone who's done it many times, walk your
> > though the steps...there are a lot of steps not mentioned in the manual
> > that make bleeding a whole lot easier.
> >
>
> It's the first bit of bike maintenance in my 38 years of working on
> bikes that I may start bringing my bike to a shop to do.
>
> Greg
>
> --
> "All my time I spent in heaven
> Revelries of dance and wine
> Waking to the sound of laughter
> Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons