Axle, Hub & Cartridge Bearings



D

Don Whybrow

Guest
A question for the panel ...

For my fixed conversion, I have a System EX flip flop rear hub. The axle
length is (as best I can make out) 165mm with the OLN at 120mm. My track
ends are spaced at 130mm and are 7mm thick each. The track nuts have
integral washers and the thread does not engage for about 5mm.

The first obvious mismatch is the 10mm difference between the OLN &
track ends. This doesn't worry me as I intend to use chain tugs and if
necessary I can add washers.

The main problem is that the 130mm track ends plus the 14mm thickness
plus the 10mm recess in the track nuts comes to 154mm giving just 9mm to
engage the threads at 4.5mm each side. Not a lot.

I have a 175mm axle that I want to put into the hub and I thought it
would be a matter of taking off the cones and disassembly and then
putting it all back together on the new axle. However I found that this
hub uses Cartridge bearings rather than the traditional cones and I
can't figure out how to get them off.

The question I would like the answer to is how do you get these
blighter's off?

--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

Hackers make toys. Crackers break them. (Peter Seebach)
 
On 28 Aug, 18:27, Don Whybrow <[email protected]> wrote:
> A question for the panel ...
> The question I would like the answer to is how do you get these
> blighter's off?
>
> --
> Don Whybrow
>
> Sequi Bonum Non Time
>
> Hackers make toys. Crackers break them. (Peter Seebach)


Usually heating the hub will allow you to carefully press the bearing
off-out.
 
CoyoteBoy wrote:
> On 28 Aug, 18:27, Don Whybrow <[email protected]> wrote:
>> A question for the panel ...
>> The question I would like the answer to is how do you get these
>> blighter's off?

>
> Usually heating the hub will allow you to carefully press the bearing
> off-out.


I assume that this is heating using something like a hairdryer rather
than putting it into the over for a while.

--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

Invalid thought detected. Close all mental processes and restart
body.
 
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:48:48 +0100, Don Whybrow wrote:

> CoyoteBoy wrote:
>> On 28 Aug, 18:27, Don Whybrow <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> A question for the panel ...
>>> The question I would like the answer to is how do you get these
>>> blighter's off?

>>
>> Usually heating the hub will allow you to carefully press the bearing
>> off-out.

>
> I assume that this is heating using something like a hairdryer rather
> than putting it into the over for a while.


Maybe not.

It's all maths, really; the differential rate of expansion versus the
amount of interference of the fit. An oven may be a better tool; you can
get the whole hub to the same temp, avoiding any over-heating - and mght
even be able to position it so the bearing just drops out.
 
On 29 Aug, 20:53, _ <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:48:48 +0100, Don Whybrow wrote:
> > CoyoteBoy wrote:
> >> On 28 Aug, 18:27, Don Whybrow <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> A question for the panel ...
> >>> The question I would like the answer to is how do you get these
> >>> blighter's off?

>
> >> Usually heating the hub will allow you to carefully press the bearing
> >> off-out.

>
> > I assume that this is heating using something like a hairdryer rather
> > than putting it into the over for a while.

>
> Maybe not.
>
> It's all maths, really; the differential rate of expansion versus the
> amount of interference of the fit. An oven may be a better tool; you can
> get the whole hub to the same temp, avoiding any over-heating - and mght
> even be able to position it so the bearing just drops out.


You probably dont want to BAKE your wheel - it wouldnt be ideal, but
you would be amazed what 100C can do without damaging any of the metal
structures. Beware stickers may suffer, as might lube in freehubs if
still attached. Usually a hot air gun (being careful not to overheat
sensitive areas) is all I use to really ease the process - ive never
had them /drop/ out but it certainly helps.

J
 

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