Bang for the newbie buck

[inkieminstrel]

I picked up cycling a couple of months ago after a decade-long hiatus, so I'm essentially starting from scratch. I'm already feeling the limitations of my bike, which is a circa 1999 Trek 930 mountain bike that I got for free. It's too big for me, the seat isn't comfortable, and it's sluggish and noisy on the flat, paved roads I ride on.

I'd like to get an entry-level (~$700) road bike that fits me better, such as a Schwinn Fastback, and I was wondering approximately how much of a speed improvement I should see in making the switch (like, approximately what percentage increase?), and general opinions on how much better such a bike would be, so I can gauge when it will be worth it to me.

Also, is there anything I should look for in such a bike if I'm expecting it to last me several years and get me through century-distance rides?

Finally, I'm planning on getting an inexpensive set of clipless pedals and shoes so I can start working those muscle groups. Are there any other small upgrades I can make that are worthwhile in either improving my performance or training?

 

[bobbyOCR]

First thing, welcome.

Next. NEVER just NEVER talk about 'what percentage increase/increase in general will this or that component bring me' It doesn't work like that. If you get a narrow-tyred 700c road bike you will notice a speed increase because of the change from mtb to road. How much all depends on you, after all you make it go.

Next. If you get an entry level road bike, the speed increases between that and the ultra bling pro bike will be minimal. 5% maybe, being generous. It is mostly in the mind.

Second. Expand your budget. Get a bike with Shimano 105 or campagnolo Veloce minimum, otherwise you will want to change. Sora equipped bikes are usually ugly, come with more components you will want to change (costing more in the end) and are heavier (though that is minimal). Also, 105/veloce will last the longest and give you great bang for your buck.

Third. Clipless shoes and pedals are a must. They are more about stiffness and comfort rather than the whole 'pull up' thing. The general opinion is put effort into the downstroke moreso than the up. (do try to eliminate the deadspot by 'scraping' though)

Fourth. Make sure you are comfortable. Get a saddle that fits and a good pair of knicks if you are planning centuries.

Fifth. Listen to point 1., do not ever mention it, and don't argue (with Alienator, ScienceisCool, PowerfulPete, or myself).

Sixth. Have fun.

 

[inkieminstrel]

Thanks for the advice.

It's looking like getting 105 components would almost double the price of the bike, which I can't afford at the moment. Would it be significantly worse to go with sora or tiagra components and make the upgrade to 105s a year or two down the road? And can 105 components be added in pieces or does it need to be all at once?

Also, with the question about speed difference between mountain bikes and road bikes, I'm more just trying to gauge if it's worth it to make the switch. I'm not really crunching numbers, but more trying to get a sense of whether the difference will be a little, a lot, or night and day. So, if that question can't be answered, how worthwhile would it be for the average person to make the switch from 7 year old entry-level mountain bike to new entry-level road bike for paved and packed gravel riding?

 

[Tonto]

Thanks for the advice.

It's looking like getting 105 components would almost double the price of the bike, which I can't afford at the moment. Would it be significantly worse to go with sora or tiagra components and make the upgrade to 105s a year or two down the road? And can 105 components be added in pieces or does it need to be all at once?

Also, with the question about speed difference between mountain bikes and road bikes, I'm more just trying to gauge if it's worth it to make the switch. I'm not really crunching numbers, but more trying to get a sense of whether the difference will be a little, a lot, or night and day. So, if that question can't be answered, how worthwhile would it be for the average person to make the switch from 7 year old entry-level mountain bike to new entry-level road bike for paved and packed gravel riding?

The difference between your mountain bike and any kind of half-decent (including Sora-equipped) racing bike will be huge. The first few times you ride a good road bike after being used to commuter-level mountain bikes all your life will make you just want to shout 'Whheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!'

The difference between Sora/Tiagra and 105 will not make you even go 'wheee'. If the price difference is enough to make you think you should give up on the road bike thing and just stick with your mountain bike for now, then don't worry about 105 and get what you can afford. As bobbyOCR says, it's not that 105 is so much better, it's just that if you get something like Sora and you start riding a lot and get really into it, you'll very quickly start pining for better equipment. Not because yours will be massively inferior, but mostly because you'll become and bike equipment geek, start hanging around this forum and start salivating over the ads in Cycle Sport. It's called upgrade fever.
What happens then is a lot of people ditch their Sora gear when there's still many thousands of good miles in it and splash out on an upgrade and only then realise that the parts cost a hell of a lot more 'sans bike' than they would have if you'd gone for the more expensively equipped bike in the first place.
Anyway, whatever you do, enjoy and good luck!

 

[alfeng]

I picked up cycling a couple of months ago after a decade-long hiatus, so I'm essentially starting from scratch. I'm already feeling the limitations of my bike, which is a circa 1999 Trek 930 mountain bike that I got for free. It's too big for me, the seat isn't comfortable, and it's sluggish and noisy on the flat, paved roads I ride on.

I'd like to get an entry-level (~$700) road bike that fits me better, such as a Schwinn Fastback, and I was wondering approximately how much of a speed improvement I should see in making the switch (like, approximately what percentage increase?), and general opinions on how much better such a bike would be, so I can gauge when it will be worth it to me.

Also, is there anything I should look for in such a bike if I'm expecting it to last me several years and get me through century-distance rides?

Finally, I'm planning on getting an inexpensive set of clipless pedals and shoes so I can start working those muscle groups. Are there any other small upgrades I can make that are worthwhile in either improving my performance or training?

AFTER you select & buy the shoes & pedals, you may want to consider finding & buying the saddle of your choice ... these can be used on any future bike you end up with.

You may want to consider getting a ROAD crankset -- something with 52/39, 53/39, 50/36, or 50/34 chainrings -- to use on your current bike AND ride the updgraded bike for a few months. You current crankset's largest chainring is probably only a 42t.

If the bike has an aluminum frame, then you will probably need a bottom bracket (if the "new" crank has a different "interface" -- e.g., square taper, ISIS, Octalink) which is normally used for a ROAD triple. If the frame is steel, then the bottom bracket for a normal ROAD double is fine. You should be able to find a fairly nice set of mid-range cranks + bottom bracket for a pretty good price on eBay if you are patient OR your time is good. Of course, if you buy a crank which uses the same type of BB then you probably won't need a new one. EVEN if changing the crank sounds like a possible option, consider simply changing the tires & tubes, first, because ...

Undoubtedly, the road noise you describe is from using off-road tires. If so, then "slicks" will eliminate a great deal of the road noise. Slicks will also remove some of the sluggishness you are experiencing.

FWIW. It's probably worth saving up enough so you can get a road bike (new or used) with Campagnolo shifters if/when you select a bike with drop bars ...

 

[3Sensei]

I picked up cycling a couple of months ago after a decade-long hiatus, so I'm essentially starting from scratch. I'm already feeling the limitations of my bike, which is a circa 1999 Trek 930 mountain bike that I got for free. It's too big for me, the seat isn't comfortable, and it's sluggish and noisy on the flat, paved roads I ride on.

I'd like to get an entry-level (~$700) road bike that fits me better, such as a Schwinn Fastback, and I was wondering approximately how much of a speed improvement I should see in making the switch (like, approximately what percentage increase?), and general opinions on how much better such a bike would be, so I can gauge when it will be worth it to me.

Also, is there anything I should look for in such a bike if I'm expecting it to last me several years and get me through century-distance rides?

Finally, I'm planning on getting an inexpensive set of clipless pedals and shoes so I can start working those muscle groups. Are there any other small upgrades I can make that are worthwhile in either improving my performance or training?

I have a '05 Schwinn Fastback 27 (which I believe is equivalent to the 2006 Fastback Triple) among other bikes. It is good entry level bike and comes equipped with a Tiagra/105 mix of components. I have another bike equipped with Ultegra and the shifting is very similar. I think cable housing, cable routing, and lubrication make up quite a bit of the difference in shifting precision. The Tiagra stuff is completely interchangeable with 105 9-speed if you want to upgrade at some point. I don't think it would be necessary unless you really plan on going into serious competition. For centuries and such the Fastback will do just fine. It's a well made frame with decent components. The only drawback to the 2006 model is the seat post/saddle. It's an SDG I-Beam, which is incompatible with the standard saddles. So, if you don't like the saddle, you have to get a new seat post as well. I got lucky because the '05 Fastback has a Ritchey seatpost with a low end WTB saddle.

As I said, there really is no reason to upgrade anything on the Fastback. By the time any of the components wear out you'll probably be hooked and wanting a more expensive bike anyways. Then the Fastback will make a very good 'B' bike (rainy weather/indoor trainer/commuter). That's what mine is now. I also use it when I know there are going to be some serious hills. I'm pushing 50 and I need the bail out gears on a triple sometimes.

You will notice an improvement in how you feel about riding on the road with a road bike. That may or may not lead to an increase in speed. Riding isn't always about how fast you go, but how much you enjoy the ride. I typically ride 1-2 miles an hour faster on a road bike than by mountain bike equipped with high pressure slicks. However, my mountain bike is an old high end full suspension model that weighs about 26 pounds, so it's not much heavier than the Fastback. I'd say most of the speed difference is due to my positioning on the road bike.

Do get clipless pedals. They make riding much more enjoyable than either using toeclips or platform pedals. As for SPD or Look style, my personal preference is SPD. I like using a good stiff soled mountain bike shoe. It allows me to walk around when I get off the bike. I don't have any problems with foot pain even after 4-5 hour rides, so for me they work fine. I've also used Look pedals and they work fine, too. I just have a harder time walking around on them when I get off the bike.

If you live in the U.S. and are near a Performance Bike shop, you might want to look at their Tirreno or Scattante bikes. They offer a good value and have 105 or better components on them. At your local bike shop Felt is also a fairly good deal. If you know how to fit a bike to yourself and want to save money Bikesdirect.com has some very good deals.

Sorry about the long winded post. Whatever you decide, good luck and go out and ride.

Happy cycling!