Bar end shifters



Bikeridindude

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Mar 13, 2006
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I will be riding my road bike with a cast on my arm for at least 6 weeks (doctor said it was OK!). The problem is, the cast goes down to my knuckles and eliminates the ability for me to use my shifters/brakes with my left hand. Here's how I was thinking I could deal with it:
1) Buy a cheap clip on aero bar, cut it down to about 4" and put the bar end shifter on it. (I would be able to use it with my left fingers easier that way)

or 2) Just put the bar end shifter on the end of my handlebars (Easton EC90's) on the right side.

If I choose method #2, I take it I would have to drill a hole through my carbon bars for the cable to lace through, probably would be best if the hole was as close to the end as possible so as not to compromise the strength of the bars.

I run Campy on my bikes, but don't really like the idea of dropping $180 for the temporary shifters. Would Shimano Ultegra bar end shifters be compatible? Not sure if they're indexed or not. They're 1/3 the price, so I'd like to go that route.

Also, as far as brakes go, I was thinking about puting the cyclocross brake levers on my handlebars.

Thanks for any help.
 
I can't speak about compatibility with Campy, but I have Dura-Ace SL-BS77 bar end shifters (9-speed) on my cyclocross bike. The front shifter is friction only, the rear shifter easily switches between indexed or friction. Currently you can get the set for about $70. I don't even know if there is an Ultegra version of these, but if there is I doubt it would be much cheaper.

The cable housing runs on the outside of the bar so I don't see why you would need to drill any holes.
 
huboon said:
The cable housing runs on the outside of the bar so I don't see why you would need to drill any holes.
I wasn't sure if the cable was outside or inside, thanks. If the front derailleur is friction only there should be no reason why it wouldn't work on Campy. Thank you for the info.
 
gclark8 said:
Just put a set of combo flat bar road shifters/brake levers on the bike. :D
I didn't know they existed for road bikes until I just looked them up. Might be the perfect thing, just need to make sure my thumb will work on them. Thanks!
 
Just ride on one chainring. Use the small chainring and work on your cadence or use the large chainring and work on your strength and endurance.

Seriously though, get yourself a friction bar end or MTB shifter for the front. Since this is going to be a temporary situation (we hope) you don't want to do anything permanent like drilling holes in your carbon handlebars.
 
Bikeridindude said:
I will be riding my road bike with a cast on my arm for at least 6 weeks (doctor said it was OK!). The problem is, the cast goes down to my knuckles and eliminates the ability for me to use my shifters/brakes with my left hand. Here's how I was thinking I could deal with it:
1) Buy a cheap clip on aero bar, cut it down to about 4" and put the bar end shifter on it. (I would be able to use it with my left fingers easier that way)

or 2) Just put the bar end shifter on the end of my handlebars (Easton EC90's) on the right side.

If I choose method #2, I take it I would have to drill a hole through my carbon bars for the cable to lace through, probably would be best if the hole was as close to the end as possible so as not to compromise the strength of the bars.

I run Campy on my bikes, but don't really like the idea of dropping $180 for the temporary shifters. Would Shimano Ultegra bar end shifters be compatible? Not sure if they're indexed or not. They're 1/3 the price, so I'd like to go that route.

Also, as far as brakes go, I was thinking about puting the cyclocross brake levers on my handlebars.

Thanks for any help.

Do number 2, barend on the right side for the FD, no need to drill any holes. The access for the cable and housing is below the hbars. use any barend, they are all friction for the FD.
 
Another possibility is to find a cheap friction downtube shifter, and use a Kelly Take-Off

http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

If you normally ride on the hoods, this may be a better option than a bar end shifter. I don't know if they are suggested for carbon bars, as they could add a stress point by the way they are mounted.

However, I would suggest also considering the earlier suggestion to go with no front shifting, especially by picking the right chain ring and possibly a wider range rear cassette.
 

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