BB XT install question

Discussion in 'Mountain Bikes' started by Slacker, Feb 26, 2004.

  1. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

    thx
     
    Tags:


  2. S o r n i

    S o r n i Guest

    Slacker wrote:
    > Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

    Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that is.)

    Bill "got directions?" S.
     
  3. "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the
    shell?
    >
    > thx
    >
    >

    There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
    needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

    --
    DTW .../\.../\.../\...

    I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
    The rest I've just wasted.
     
  4. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    S o r n i wrote:
    > Slacker wrote:
    >> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    >
    > Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that
    > is.)
    >
    > Bill "got directions?" S.

    That's the way I started it, just needed to make sure... thanks!

    Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic failure.
    --
    Slacker
     
  5. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    D T W .../\... wrote:
    > "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]
    > berlin.de...
    >> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    >>
    >> thx
    >>
    >>
    >
    > There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
    > needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

    Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
    (excellent) excuse.

    What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus, I
    also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?
    --
    Slacker
     
  6. S o r n i

    S o r n i Guest

    Slacker wrote:
    > S o r n i wrote:
    >> Slacker wrote:
    >>> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    >>
    >> Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that
    >> is.)
    >>
    >> Bill "got directions?" S.
    >
    >
    > That's the way I started it, just needed to make sure... thanks!
    >
    > Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
    > failure.

    Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off a bit.

    Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
    gushing blood)" S.
     
  7. ">
    >
    > Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
    > (excellent) excuse.
    >
    > What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large
    1/2"
    > ratchet wrench. Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good
    enough?
    > --
    > Slacker
    >

    It's a home made gizmo kind of like this guide thingy. Not really necessary if your careful with the
    socket. It really is helpful if you have one that's difficult to remove as you can easily ding up
    the teeth of the BB lock nut. I got a carriage bolt that fit thru the BB with nuts and washers to
    clamp the socket to the BB. Then you have to turn it with a wrench. Grease the BB threads!

    http://www.parktool.com/tools/FR_5GBIG.shtml

    DTW .../\.../\.../\...

    I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing. The rest I've just wasted.
     
  8. "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > D T W .../\... wrote:
    > > "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]
    > > berlin.de...
    > >> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    > >>
    > >> thx
    > >>
    > >>
    > >
    > > There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
    > > needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.
    >
    >
    > Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
    > (excellent) excuse.
    >
    > What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large
    1/2"
    > ratchet wrench. Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good
    enough?
    > --
    > Slacker

    Ha , I'd forgotten this trick:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcartdg.shtml

    --
    DTW .../\.../\.../\...

    I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
    The rest I've just wasted.
     
  9. > >
    > > Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
    > > failure.
    >
    > Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off
    a
    > bit.
    >
    > Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
    > gushing blood)" S.
    >

    Did he say Swish Blade?

    --
    DTW .../\.../\.../\...

    I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
    The rest I've just wasted.
     
  10. S o r n i

    S o r n i Guest

    D T W .../\... wrote:
    >>> Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
    >>> failure.
    >>
    >> Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off a bit.
    >>
    >> Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
    >> gushing blood)" S.
    >>
    >
    > Did he say Swish Blade?

    Ith a nithe byke.

    Bill "smart ass" S.
     
  11. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    In news:[email protected],
    Slacker <[email protected]> typed:
    > D T W .../\... wrote:
    >> "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]
    >> berlin.de...
    >>> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    >>>
    >>> thx
    >>>
    >>>
    >>
    >> There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
    >> needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.
    >
    >
    > Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
    > (excellent) excuse.

    Your PC runs on batteries I guess?! LOL!!!

    >
    > What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus,
    > I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?

    You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how I do it.

    http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276

    It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required torque
    this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

    For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.

    Mike
     
  12. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    Michael Dart wrote:
    > In news:[email protected], Slacker <[email protected]> typed:
    >> D T W .../\... wrote:
    >>> "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]
    >>> berlin.de...
    >>>> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
    >>>>
    >>>> thx
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>> There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
    >>> needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.
    >>
    >>
    >> Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
    >> (excellent) excuse.
    >
    > Your PC runs on batteries I guess?! LOL!!!

    Come-on man, that's so old school... it's all about solar power now ;-)

    >> What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus,
    >> I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?
    >
    > You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
    > I do it.
    >
    > http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276
    >
    > It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
    > torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

    Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only goes up to 250 lbs, not the
    360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before without the proper torque
    wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(

    I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my Thomson post was going to snap!

    > For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.
    >
    > Mike
     
  13. KLydesdale

    KLydesdale Guest

    "D T W .../\..." <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:4Py%[email protected]... have to turn it with a wrench.
    > Grease the BB threads!

    Or use plumber's pipe joint compound (aka pipe dope) on them. I've been using this instead of grease
    for several years now and have not had any problems with noise or loosening like I used to have when
    I used grease.
     
  14. KLydesdale

    KLydesdale Guest

    "Slacker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Michael Dart wrote:
    >
    > >> What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench.
    > >> Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?
    > >
    > > You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how I
    > > do it.
    > >
    > > http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276
    > >
    > > It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
    > > torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)
    >
    >
    > Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only
    goes
    > up to 250 lbs, not the 360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before
    > without the proper torque wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(
    >
    > I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my
    Thomson
    > post was going to snap!
    >

    Are you sure you're reading your units correctly?. The service instructions I have for Shimano stuff
    all specify 50-70 Nm (435-608 INCH-lbs). for bottom brackets This translates to about 50 FOOT-lbs at
    the high end. That's way less than half scale on my 1/2" Craftsman torque wrench and to obtain it
    takes about 35 lbs applied to the end of it's 17" (1.42') span . Hardly enough force to snap a
    Thomson post.

    When I install BB's, I find it much easier to do the final torquing with the bike on standing on the
    ground instead of on a workstand. I hold the bike against me and bend over it to reach the BB on the
    opposite side. That way I can easily press the tool against the BB with one hand while tightening
    with the other. I've never had problems with it slipping this way or felt the need for some other
    home-made tool.
     
  15. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    KLydesdale wrote:

    > >"Slacker"
    >>
    >> Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only goes up to 250 lbs, not
    >> the 360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before without the proper
    >> torque wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(
    >>
    >> I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my Thomson post was going
    >> to snap!
    >>
    >
    >
    > Are you sure you're reading your units correctly?. The service instructions I have for Shimano
    > stuff all specify 50-70 Nm (435-608 INCH-lbs). for bottom brackets This translates to about 50 FOOT-
    > lbs at the high end. That's way less than half scale on my 1/2" Craftsman torque wrench and to
    > obtain it takes about 35 lbs applied to the end of it's 17" (1.42') span . Hardly enough force to
    > snap a Thomson post.

    I was just going off memory and Park's website, and a little hyperbole for good measure. But my
    little torque wrench only goes up to 250 in lbs... now I'm remembering.... I bought the wrench to
    install my Easton carbon bar and Mag stem, so I didn't need the Big Torque wrench back then.

    > When I install BB's, I find it much easier to do the final torquing with the bike on standing on
    > the ground instead of on a workstand. I hold the bike against me and bend over it to reach the BB
    > on the opposite side. That way I can easily press the tool against the BB with one hand while
    > tightening with the other. I've never had problems with it slipping this way or felt the need for
    > some other home-made tool.

    Good tip. Thanks!

    ---
    Slacker - just realized I need another 1/2 a main pivot bearing from Turner
    :-(
     
  16. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    Michael Dart wrote:
    >
    > You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
    > I do it.
    >
    > http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276
    >
    > It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
    > torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)
    >
    > For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.
    >
    > Mike

    Do you say F tight... lol .... just came back from Home Depot. A bunch-o-washers, one 3/8" bolt
    (long), and one of these http://www.bledsoerentals.com/Images/Equipment/PipeWrMed.jpg 24" baby. That
    sucker is going on NOW!
    --
    Slacker
     
  17. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    In news:[email protected],
    Slacker <[email protected]> typed:
    > Michael Dart wrote:
    >>
    >> You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
    >> I do it.
    >>
    >> http://www.pbase.com/image/16818276
    >>
    >> It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
    >> torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)
    >>
    >> For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.
    >>
    >> Mike
    >
    >
    > Do you say F tight... lol .... just came back from Home Depot. A bunch-o-washers, one 3/8" bolt
    > (long), and one of these http://www.bledsoerentals.com/Images/Equipment/PipeWrMed.jpg 24" baby.
    > That sucker is going on NOW!

    Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.

    If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose or
    you'll be backing it out against the bolt.

    Mike
     
  18. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    > Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.
    >
    > If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose or
    > you'll be backing it out against the bolt.
    >
    > Mike

    hehehe... hey, 15" Crescent $28.00 / Big Ass pipe wrench $18.00 ... the pipe wrench worked amazingly
    well. The damn thing is so heavy you hardly had to apply any pressure to get up to F tight.

    BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool; I would've never figured this part out, and probably
    would've jacked up my BB.

    Now to solve the main pivot bearing problem... what the hell is this bike a hand made Ferrari or
    something, nothing that is stock fits properly !!!
    --
    Slacker
     
  19. S o r n i

    S o r n i Guest

    Slacker wrote:

    > BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool...jacked up

    Jeez, no one wants to see that. {wince}

    Bill "OK, off to ride on ACTUAL DIRT again" S.
     
  20. Michael Dart

    Michael Dart Guest

    In news:[email protected],
    Slacker <[email protected]> typed:
    >> Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.
    >>
    >> If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose
    >> or you'll be backing it out against the bolt.
    >>
    >> Mike
    >
    >
    > hehehe... hey, 15" Crescent $28.00 / Big Ass pipe wrench $18.00 ... the pipe wrench worked
    > amazingly well. The damn thing is so heavy you hardly had to apply any pressure to get up to
    > F tight.

    That'll do it.

    >
    > BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool; I would've never figured this part out, and probably
    > would've jacked up my BB.

    Ahem...sure ;^)

    >
    > Now to solve the main pivot bearing problem... what the hell is this bike a hand made Ferrari or
    > something, nothing that is stock fits properly !!!

    Welcome to the wonderful world of DH bike maintenance.

    Mike
     
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