Beach sand drivetrain and brake alternatives

[Dave Stocker]

Hi All,

I will be participating in a race this summer with a long stretch on the beach (X-Terra
Netherlands). This race was none to nice on my bike last year. Salty sand gummed up my (V) brakes
and put both derailleurs out of action. I effectively spent most of the bike leg on a single
speed with horrid brake drag. To make matters worse, it was a single pivot FS rig.

I was thinking of ways around these problems this year. For one, I will be using my (rigid)
beater bike. For the sticky sand problem, I believe my options are:

Drivetrain-
1) Spray everything down with cooking oil. This works for mud, but with wet salty beach sand?
2) Go to an internal gear hub. A Rohloff is a bit pricey for one afternoon. Plus one motive is to
preserve my XT stuff, not switch to an even more expensive setup. I can't justify the cost of a
new Shimano nexus, but perhaps one can be had cheap on ebay. Another option would be a
Sturmey-Archer or SRAM three-speed in 135mm if they exist.

Brakes-
3) Remove the V-brakes and just run with an Avid mechanical disc in the front. This race is not
exactly a braking intensive environment (the difficulty lies in staying in motion), so I think
front only is fine. Plus it is an excuse to switch away from rim brakes on the beater, which
tows a child trailer 364 days a year.
4) Remove the V-brakes and switch to a Coaster brake! Especially if combined with a cheap internal
gear hub in 135 mm.

So is there such a thing a cheap internal gear hub with coaster brake in 135mm? I am not worried
about durability. It only has to last twenty miles (OK, plus a couple of training rides).

Thanks, Dave

 

[Matt O'Toole]

Dave Stocker wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I will be participating in a race this summer with a long stretch on the beach (X-Terra
> Netherlands). This race was none to nice on my bike last year. Salty sand gummed up my (V)
> brakes and put both derailleurs out of action. I effectively spent most of the bike leg on a
> single speed with horrid brake drag. To make matters worse, it was a single pivot FS rig.
>
> I was thinking of ways around these problems this year. For one, I will be using my (rigid)
> beater bike. For the sticky sand problem, I believe my options are:
>
> Drivetrain-
> 1) Spray everything down with cooking oil. This works for mud, but with wet salty beach sand?

Not really.

> 2) Go to an internal gear hub. A Rohloff is a bit pricey for one afternoon. Plus one motive is
> to preserve my XT stuff, not switch to an even more expensive setup. I can't justify the cost
> of a new Shimano nexus, but perhaps one can be had cheap on ebay. Another option would be a
> Sturmey-Archer or SRAM three-speed in 135mm if they exist.

Any of these might be a good solution. However, if the beach is flat and the wind consistent, why do
you even need more than one gear? For that matter, do you even need a freewheel (vs. a fixed gear)?
I ride in Myrtle Beach a lot, which is quite flat, however the wind usually blows one way. In that
case, a flip-flop hub with an upwind gear on one side, and a downwind gear on the other would work
fine. In fact, it would be perfect, so I'm thinking of building up a fixed gear, flip-flop hub beach
bike to leave at my sister's house, for when I visit.

> Brakes-
> 1) Remove the V-brakes and just run with an Avid mechanical disc in the front. This race is not
> exactly a braking intensive environment (the difficulty lies in staying in motion), so I
> think front only is fine.

Sure, why not.

> Plus it is an excuse to switch away from rim brakes on the beater, which tows a child trailer 364
> days a year.

All rim brakes do is grind down your rims on the beach.

> 2) Remove the V-brakes and switch to a Coaster brake! Especially if combined with a cheap
> internal gear hub in 135 mm.

No problem, as long as you can get the gearing you need. A standard, cheapo, "beach cruiser" rear
wheel would do you fine. I don't know if you can change sprockets, but you should be able to juggle
chainrings to get the gearing you need.

> So is there such a thing a cheap internal gear hub with coaster brake in 135mm? I am not worried
> about durability. It only has to last twenty miles (OK, plus a couple of training rides).

Shimano Nexus hubs come with coaster brakes, roller brakes, or brakeless. I don't know about old
SA or Sachs hubs, but IIRC, some of the SA ones had coaster brakes too -- particularly the
"kickback" models.

Good luck, and happy tinkering.

Matt O.

 

[Tgleeman2]

Hi Dave,

For sand and salt you might try a drive shaft bicycle as seen at

Tom Gleeman San Diego, CA

"Dave Stocker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I will be participating in a race this summer with a long stretch on
the
> beach (X-Terra Netherlands). This race was none to nice on my bike last year. Salty sand gummed up
> my (V) brakes and put both derailleurs out of action. I effectively spent most of the bike leg on
> a single speed with horrid brake drag. To make matters worse, it was a single pivot FS rig.

 

[Bluto]

"Dave Stocker" <[email protected]> wrote

> I will be participating in a race this summer with a long stretch on the beach (X-Terra
> Netherlands). This race was none to nice on my bike last year. Salty sand gummed up my (V)
> brakes and put both derailleurs out of action. I effectively spent most of the bike leg on a
> single speed with horrid brake drag. To make matters worse, it was a single pivot FS rig.
<snip>
> 2) Go to an internal gear hub...I can't justify the cost of a new Shimano nexus, but perhaps one
> can be had cheap on ebay. Another option would be a Sturmey-Archer or SRAM three-speed in
> 135mm if they exist.

IME the Shimano Nexus 7 is noticeably less efficient than a derailleur system or other gearhubs. The
Sachs/SRAM 7 speed is much more comparable to a derailleur system efficiency-wise. Either of them
are available with drum or coaster brake.

Stick to the 4, 5, or 7 speed hubs if you are to use 135 spacing. You'll still need horizontal
dropouts; a chain tensioner doesn't seem like a good idea in this application and can't be used with
a coaster brake at all.

> 1) Remove the V-brakes and just run with an Avid mechanical disc in the front. This race is not
> exactly a braking intensive environment (the difficulty lies in staying in motion), so I
> think front only is fine.

Drum front brake is another option that might not cost as much. Check out a local used-bike
resource, if you have one available. If you go eBaying for one, your best bet is a Sachs/SRAM or
Sturmey Archer unit, or a Shimano roller brake hub.

Chalo Colina

 

[Markanium]

Try cleaning ALL the oil off of your drive train, dry completely then apply White Lightning
sel-cleaning wax lubricant. I ride the beach and sand all the time with this lube and nothing sticks
to it. Only downside is that you have to keep re-applying every other ride or so. Make sure you get
all the old oil off first. Oil is like a dirt and sand magnet.

"Dave Stocker" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I will be participating in a race this summer with a long stretch on
the
> beach (X-Terra Netherlands). This race was none to nice on my bike last year. Salty sand gummed up
> my (V) brakes and put both derailleurs out of action. I effectively spent most of the bike leg on
> a single speed with horrid brake drag. To make matters worse, it was a single pivot FS rig.
>
> I was thinking of ways around these problems this year. For one, I will be using my (rigid)
> beater bike. For the sticky sand problem, I believe my options are:
>
> Drivetrain-
> 1) Spray everything down with cooking oil. This works for mud, but with wet salty beach sand?
> 2) Go to an internal gear hub. A Rohloff is a bit pricey for one afternoon. Plus one motive is
> to preserve my XT stuff, not switch to an
even
> more expensive setup. I can't justify the cost of a new Shimano nexus, but perhaps one can be
> had cheap on ebay. Another option would be a Sturmey-Archer or SRAM three-speed in 135mm if
> they exist.
>
> Brakes-
> 1) Remove the V-brakes and just run with an Avid mechanical disc in the front. This race is not
> exactly a braking intensive environment (the difficulty lies in staying in motion), so I
> think front only is fine. Plus it is an excuse to switch away from rim brakes on the beater,
> which tows a child trailer 364 days a year.
> 2) Remove the V-brakes and switch to a Coaster brake! Especially if combined with a cheap
> internal gear hub in 135 mm.
>
> So is there such a thing a cheap internal gear hub with coaster brake in 135mm? I am not worried
> about durability. It only has to last twenty miles (OK, plus a couple of training rides).
>
> Thanks, Dave