peanut59 said:
I just turned 50 and want to start biking to get fit and enjoy. I live on a farm have pastures and woodlands all around for riding and also will ride on the roads. I am 5'1" with a 28" inseam and not really out of shape, but would like to get better toned.
I have been checking out craigslist and ebay for bikes..mainly looking at mt bikes, Trek, Specialized, Giant, and Gary Fisher. I plan to go to the nearest bike shop (an hour away) to find out what size frame I need. From what I understand this shop doesn't have much in the line of mt bikes..just bmx and some road. I want a good quality bike, but can't really afford a new one, so I want a good used one. Maybe after I learn more and also to see how well I like it, I'll can upgrade.
Is there any particular brands/models/style that would best suit my size and needs?
Before I shop, what other things do I need to consider?
Your budget
is a key factor ... I think it's harder to buy a used MTB because suspension technology is a moving target AND it's easier to abuse a MTB & it's not always easy to know the riding history that the bike has seen.
Regardless, you probably want a MTB with an
XS frame ... nothing larger for someone your size!
For riding through pastures, a
full suspension bike may-or-may-not be a better option ...
Of the four brands you mentioned, GARY FISHER would probably be my first choice. Gary Fisher bikes are made/sold by TREK, but they have their own engineering group, and are probably a little more cutting edge than the Trek MTBs.
GIANT bikes are usually the best dollar value.
SPECIALIZED would be my last choice of the four you mentioned because I'm not keen on their rear suspension design (at least, on their super-duper models).
I liked the
i-drive rear suspension on the earlier GT MTBs, and (if available) a GT would probably be my choice if I were buying a full suspension bike because the design controls rear wheel bobbing better (okay, based on my test ride seveal years ago, I'm a believer of their
spiel); but, rear shock "technology" has improved in the past several years & the difference to the rider in how different designs handle controlling the rear end may less, now.
It's the end-of-the-season,
now, so you can usually get a ready-to-ride Santa Cruz BLUR for about $1500+ from COLORADO CYCLIST (mail order) ... that's a steep price for some, but it comparable to what you will probably pay for a TREK or GARY FISHER.
A 2009 bike should cost 75%-to-80% of retail ... any remaining 2008 bikes should cost 60%-or-less of retail.
I think that it's hard to find a GOOD full suspension bike for less than $1100 (retail) ... $800 at the end of the season.
If possible, I recommend that you try to limit your selection to bikes with
Shimano LX or
SLX components (or, better!?!) because they will more-than-likely be on a bike with better suspension components. Shimano XT & XTR are better than LX & SLX. Shimano Deore is "okay" (actually, almost all Shimano components are good-or-better) ... but, it implies a heavier bike.
SRAM components have compatibility issues.
A heavier MTB is okay for urban bike paths & gravel or rough graded roads.
If you find a bike with an RST or SunRace fork, keep looking ... bring a magnet & check to make sure the fork's "lowers" are not steel ... steel forks are HEAVY and they have limited adjustment. Basically, those cheaper forks are all but worthless & should only be considered as a place-holder for a future, replacement suspension fork.
Most of the OTHER forks will be okay.
I have a Marzocchi fork on my bike. It's preferred by some, not so much so by others because they are slightly heavier.
A Hardtail would be "okay" (it's what I have) ... but, I'm not riding on anything which demands a full suspension bike (I'm not too proud to
walk around an obstacle) and I'm too cheap to buy a full suspension bike because I would probably feel compelled to buy a new one every three-or-four years as improvements to the suspension components were made!
The advantage of a Hardtail is that I think you can get an XXS frame ... but, the component's on the frame may be marginal (heavy) because I'm going to guess that the smaller bikes are usually bought for "kids" to ride.
If you opt for a Hardtail & the only XXS frame you find has a crappy fork, then just plan to replace it in the future.
You will need a helmet.
You probably want gloves. The riding conditions dictate the type of gloves you will wear ... through bramble & thicket, you will want full finger gloves ... in warmer weather, you will want fingerless gloves. There are two types of warm weather "cycling" gloves -- the old style with crochetd backs & the currently popular type which have a fabric back. Although the newer type of glove is supposed to be more comfortable (that's the hype), I find the traditional glove to be (subjectively) cooler.
I recommend that you wear eye protection.
Cycling shoes are optional, but the stiffer sole will make riding distances of 4+ miles more comfortable. Lightweight & Midweight hiking boots which just reach the ankle have the right sole stiffness & the may be good for riding through pastures.
Depending on how the "grass" is cut, if you use low cut shoes, you may want to wear hiking
gaiters when you are riding through the pastures/woodlands.
Don't worry about clipless pedals. The last that I heard (a couple of years ago), Jacqui Phelan (a former MTB racer) still uses toe clips.