bent rear dr hanger:

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Steve Leuty, Jul 6, 2003.

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  1. Steve Leuty

    Steve Leuty Guest

    What are some of the causes for a bent rear dr. hanger? I've had to replace one but the bike I
    bought (used) doesn't seem to have been wrecked. Steve Leuty

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  2. In article <[email protected]>, Steve Leuty <[email protected]> wrote:
    >What are some of the causes for a bent rear dr. hanger? I've had to replace one but the bike I
    >bought (used) doesn't seem to have been wrecked.

    Two common ways of bending it are falling over or some kind of a chain jam such as chain too short,
    or jumped off the end of the cluster, rock in the chain, etc. - something that causes the derailleur
    to get pulled tight by the chain.
     
  3. Steve Leuty queried:
    >
    >>What are some of the causes for a bent rear dr. hanger? I've had to replace one but the bike I
    >>bought (used) doesn't seem to have been wrecked.

    Paul Southworth replied:

    > Two common ways of bending it are falling over or some kind of a chain jam such as chain too
    > short, or jumped off the end of the cluster, rock in the chain, etc. - something that causes the
    > derailleur to get pulled tight by the chain.

    The chain jam scenario isn't all that common, but it doesn't take much force on the derailer to
    tweak the hanger...a swinging door trying to close on the rear derailer is quite sufficient.

    Sheldon "Never Lay A Bike Down On Its Right Side" Brown
    +---------------------------------------------------+
    | The important thing is not to stop questioning. | Curiosity has its own reason for existing. |
    | --Albert Einstein |
    +---------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  4. David Kunz

    David Kunz Guest

    Steve Leuty wrote:
    > What are some of the causes for a bent rear dr. hanger? I've had to replace one but the bike I
    > bought (used) doesn't seem to have been wrecked. Steve Leuty

    It can be bent back -- most LBS should be able to do it for you. My LBS did mine for free, but I buy
    a lot of stuff from them. I bought the tool when I bent it again (mountain bike :)); I also have a
    spare hanger in my kit.

    David
     
  5. G.Daniels

    G.Daniels Guest

    le redressage des cintres deray pliés et les camps deray de poulie et un stringline au CR's ou un
    bon regard vers le bas avec des tubes d'armature a rayé l'up(watch les ep!!)is De riguer-une fois
    une permutation de mois. Rassemblez deux channellocks-2 "mâchoires avec 12" poignées et une environ
    1 'mâchoires et 8 'poignées pour saisir le boulon entier de hanger/deray se pliant alors dans
    l'endroit dedans et dehors vers l'axe et le lacet faisant face au CR-aligning la poulie pour
    enchaîner au CR. C'est un vélo à charpente d'acier. Avec deux channelocks et grandes poignées
    américaines d'un étau actuels, les ajustements arrières là sont des outils de covered.Two
    immédiatement sont employés pour empêcher casser une extrémité de à un point fixe d'attachement ou
    moulage. L'idée plie le matériel bendable ne plaçant pas la contrainte sur les outils unbendable de
    material.Two, parce que ex sont employés pour ajuster l'only-one de camp tient toujours le camp
    tandis que l'autre plie la section de forme d'outa. Les matériaux deray sont choisis pour la
    ductilité, malleability pour ces ajustements communs. 1980 camps deray de Suntour peuvent être
    epepep enveloppé vers le haut alors de détendu et mettre de nouveau dans le service.
     
  6. G.Daniels

    G.Daniels Guest

    to continue the above in 'english': the basic deray hanger with channelocks adjustment is done(are
    done?)with one jaw(the channelocks stupid)on the hub side nut that fastens the deray/hanger bolt to
    the hanger and the other jaw on the outboard housing that captures the deray/hanger bolt. liner up!!
     
  7. Doesn't necessarily take a full blown wreck to bend a derailer hanger. The bike may have fallen over
    on that side, been bumped while being shipped (like on a tour), chain jam, in effect, anything that
    torques that area heavily. It's not designed for rough treatment.

    Look at the derailer for damage, if it isn't, look to see if the derailer cage is bent out out
    alignment (in relation to the rest of the derailer).

    Whatever, if it's not too bad, it can usually be repaired by gently bending it back with a wrench
    (cover the jaws with a rag to prevent wrecking the paint).

    May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

    Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner
     
  8. David Kunz

    David Kunz Guest

    g.daniels wrote:
    > to continue the above in 'english': the basic deray hanger with channelocks adjustment is
    > done(are done?)with one jaw(the channelocks stupid)on the hub side nut that fastens the
    > deray/hanger bolt to the hanger and the other jaw on the outboard housing that captures the
    > deray/hanger bolt. liner up!!

    (thanks for the english -- I was about to go to one of the translation pages, but they typically
    don't do a great job)

    The advantage of the tool is that it does a really good job of letting you get the DR back in the
    same plane as the rim -- all the way around -- not just up-down which is the best that you can do by
    eye using the DR tension arm. I've done it by eye on the trail (usually when I pick up "logs" in my
    chain :)) -- shifted ok. But, when I got it home and put the tool on it and got it perfect, it
    shifted even better.

    David
     
  9. G.Daniels

    G.Daniels Guest

    altavista text translator!! David Kunz ([email protected]

    The advantage of the tool is that it does a really good job of letting you get the DR back in the
    same plane as the rim -- all the way around -- not just up-down which is the best that you can do by
    eye using the DR tension arm. I've done it by eye on the trail (usually when I pick up "logs" in my
    chain :)) -- shifted ok. But, when I got it home and put the tool on it and got it perfect, it
    shifted even better

    The string method-string line is inexpensive-run from headtube across the seat tube back thru the
    cluster area gives a general idea of what's happening. Practice with the string will eventually tune
    the mind to what the brain sees but the mechanic doesn't understand(itsa hit!!)then the mechanic
    will begin to adjust the axle cluster chain ring deray to function together just like the LBS does.
    But the visual understanding of what's becoming-new to wear to unadjusted to noticable(maybe maybe
    not) friction losses 'caused by outa line or maligned driveline components comes only with repeated
    attempts at seeing. When all gear surfaces are in line-then only the teeth show up. When the gear
    surface are outa line, one set shows teeth, the other the flat gear side plus teeth.

    Not sure the tool can teach you this as well as struggling with a length of string.
     
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