Best bang-for-buck flat bar bike
- Thread starter The Red Baron
- Start date
http://www.apollobikes.com/apolloproducts/cid/40/category/Swift/parent/0/t/apolloproducts#
bought this some months ago, seen it around at some shops for around $600. OK bike for the $ but may upgrade in a year or so to a road.
bought this some months ago, seen it around at some shops for around $600. OK bike for the $ but may upgrade in a year or so to a road.
If you're interested in a getting a road bike later on I'd get the CRX over the others as it's ride and geometry is more aggressive.
The CRX4 is fine, yes the drive chain is utter rubbish - but save your $$ when you get the road bike. Alternatively, there is the 08 OCR3 which retails for just under $800.
If you're still riding after 6-12 months, then get a good road bike. By that time you'll have the legs to appreciate a $$ bike without getting passed by people on commuters.
The CRX4 is fine, yes the drive chain is utter rubbish - but save your $$ when you get the road bike. Alternatively, there is the 08 OCR3 which retails for just under $800.
If you're still riding after 6-12 months, then get a good road bike. By that time you'll have the legs to appreciate a $$ bike without getting passed by people on commuters.
My 2 cents on this.
I am starting to wonder about why people want flat bars.
If you need a comfy riding position, or want to commute, touring bikes offer the relaxed comfort geometry, and braze on lugs to mount panniers, etc.
Drop bars give you so many hand positions. Riding on the hoods, is more comfortable than riding on flat bars, in my opinion.
The main difference is the cost of the parts found on Roadies, and flat bars bikes. You would have probably noticed by now that MTB parts are on the whole cheaper than their equivalent Road bike parts. I dont understand this price differential. Price difference hardly means inferior components.
Tourers, generally also have the flexibility of allowing you to mount wider tyres, similar to most flat bars.
I for one cannot understand why someone would do flat bar conversions, converting a race bike frame to a more "comfy" flat bar configuration, is just indicative of having purchased the wrong bike for the wrong purpose in the first place. Would you modify a Ferrari to tow a trailer?
In the cases of needing a less upright position, ride in the drops. Get narrower tyres.
Oldy I have yet to see someone break a frame from normal riding. However, for your peace of mind, you might want to think of getting strong wheels with whatever bike you get.
Dont mean to offend any flat bar owners, I myself used to ride one. Just sharing my thoughts.
Bottomline, if you are riding, and enjoy it, thats all that matters.
I am starting to wonder about why people want flat bars.
If you need a comfy riding position, or want to commute, touring bikes offer the relaxed comfort geometry, and braze on lugs to mount panniers, etc.
Drop bars give you so many hand positions. Riding on the hoods, is more comfortable than riding on flat bars, in my opinion.
The main difference is the cost of the parts found on Roadies, and flat bars bikes. You would have probably noticed by now that MTB parts are on the whole cheaper than their equivalent Road bike parts. I dont understand this price differential. Price difference hardly means inferior components.
Tourers, generally also have the flexibility of allowing you to mount wider tyres, similar to most flat bars.
I for one cannot understand why someone would do flat bar conversions, converting a race bike frame to a more "comfy" flat bar configuration, is just indicative of having purchased the wrong bike for the wrong purpose in the first place. Would you modify a Ferrari to tow a trailer?
In the cases of needing a less upright position, ride in the drops. Get narrower tyres.
Oldy I have yet to see someone break a frame from normal riding. However, for your peace of mind, you might want to think of getting strong wheels with whatever bike you get.
Dont mean to offend any flat bar owners, I myself used to ride one. Just sharing my thoughts.
Bottomline, if you are riding, and enjoy it, thats all that matters.
Yes, I replace them with KMC Z92s chains for about $20.JeremyP said:
See Posts 105/6 of: http://www.cyclingforums.com/t363004.html See Red Ferrari below:
The CRX3 seems a whole lot nicer than the CRX4. I never really considered the CRX4, to be honest. The 3 also has the attachment points for mudguards and pannier, unlike the 4 (correct me if I am wrong). No 2008 CRX3s in stock yet, unfortunately. None in the country, apparently.JeremyP said:
The CRX 3 and 4 use the same frame, with the attachment points. I have fitted full mudguards to a CRX4W.fat oldy said:
If you want a nice bike, the red one 2 posts back was built to sell into a niche market. High end full carbon flat bar.
http://www.triwa.org.au/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1154 I will be advertising it soon in the Quokka.
Aggressive:gadler said:Jeremy...I'm fairly new to cycling (loving it so far though!) - can you please explain what you mean by a more aggressive geometry and how that may be a better thing? Thanks
1)shorter head tube in relation to top tube, so bars lower for aerodynamics
2) steeper seat tube angle, so hips opened up for greater efficiency but more hand/shoulder weighting
3)steeper head angle, so steering a bit twitchier but bike more responsive.
4)shorter chainstays, so bike more responsive but less stable at speed and (allegedly, never noticed this myself) less comfortable.
With a flat bar bike, I don't think that the whole aggressive vs comfortable geometry argument is applicable, as you're talking about a "comfort" bike by definition.
In addition to what artemidorus has explained, the CRX frame construction is somewhat similar to that of the old TCR aluminium models, so it actually feels more like a road bike. I've placed the spacers above the stem and the riding position and feel is quite similar. I've also swapped out the suspension seat post for an EA30, nice and cheap. Take a test ride at your local bike shop. Set the saddle so that it is above the stem. I have mine about a hand length higher, yes I'm a roadie .
The matte black suits the CRX4 quite well as it doesn't attract a lot of attention, especially once it is dirty and has a few scratches. Great as a commuter to the shops or work if you are parking in the street.
If you are looking at doing some serious riding, things which will need attention include the BB, (most likely will need to be regreased); the pedals seem to destroy the soles of my shoes; the rear hub (wobble) - possible replacement wheel.
I've swapped the tyres to Pro 2 Race and there's better traction and speed, albeit two flats.
If you are getting a CRX4, change the seatpost to something rigid, but don't put too much money swapping in higher value parts as it's not worth it.
It actually is quite stable at 40-50kmh in the flats with race tyres. The BB area is flexy, and the ride quality is harsh when compared to a standard hyrid or carbon road bike. But given the price, I don't believe there is anything better.
The best thing about it is the looks you get when you cruise pass guys on their $$$ road bikes.
.The matte black suits the CRX4 quite well as it doesn't attract a lot of attention, especially once it is dirty and has a few scratches. Great as a commuter to the shops or work if you are parking in the street.
If you are looking at doing some serious riding, things which will need attention include the BB, (most likely will need to be regreased); the pedals seem to destroy the soles of my shoes; the rear hub (wobble) - possible replacement wheel.
I've swapped the tyres to Pro 2 Race and there's better traction and speed, albeit two flats.
If you are getting a CRX4, change the seatpost to something rigid, but don't put too much money swapping in higher value parts as it's not worth it.
It actually is quite stable at 40-50kmh in the flats with race tyres. The BB area is flexy, and the ride quality is harsh when compared to a standard hyrid or carbon road bike. But given the price, I don't believe there is anything better.
The best thing about it is the looks you get when you cruise pass guys on their $$$ road bikes.
If your're looking for pure cost-effectiveness, buy a second hand road bike (the older Avanti ones are very nice) from the 1990s, get some downtube shifter gear cable stops from PBK, and get some shifters from an older MTB. It's a commuter, it doesn't need to be flash and aluminium.
I did it with a Diamondback but the stem was too short - you may need a newer longer stem, but try it with your existing one before you buy a new one.
I did it with a Diamondback but the stem was too short - you may need a newer longer stem, but try it with your existing one before you buy a new one.
Guys, firstly thank you all for imparting all this knowledge to someone who is fairly new at all this. Im finding this forum extremely useful.artemidorus said:
A question which has baffled me - what makes a road bike that much faster than a flat bar? Or for that matter any bike faster than another?
Obvioulsy weight is a significant factor...but what are all the other MAIN factors? Drivetrain? Wheels? etc?
Thanks
G.
A flat bar bike with a steep seat tube angle, 23mm tyres, 700c wheels and bars as low as racing drops would be just as fast as a drop bar bike - it just wouldn't allow you a more comfortable position such as you get from tops or hoods on a drop bar. Flat bar bikes tend to have shallower angles, longer head tube and higher bars, so you just can't get the same low position with opened hips as you can on an aggressive drop bar bike.gadler said:Guys, firstly thank you all for imparting all this knowledge to someone who is fairly new at all this. Im finding this forum extremely useful.
A question which has baffled me - what makes a road bike that much faster than a flat bar? Or for that matter any bike faster than another?
Obvioulsy weight is a significant factor...but what are all the other MAIN factors? Drivetrain? Wheels? etc?
Thanks
G.
I am currently borrowing a ex girl friends hybrid bike.Looking for a new bicycle. Specs .in order of importance
Price : $900-1300
Gears : 24+ (Shimano Deore or better)
Type : Light Hybrid or Road. i.e 700cc Wheels
Weight : Lighter the better. (9 - 13kg)
Forks : Lockable Suspension or Raked[Curved] (NOT Straight Forks too hard on hands)
Wheels : Marvic or equivalent
Brakes : are disc brakes better than Rim Brakes??
Some Brand/Models I have been looking at
Giant -- Perigee ~$1200 (No disc Brakes)
Giant -- Talon ~$1245 (with Disc Brakes)
Have about 3 weeks to look around Test and evaluate
Does anybody Newsagent or Person have a copy of Bicycle Australia's 2006 Buyers guide. Is this worth getting a copy of. Have been looking for one.
But Mooney Ponds newsagent sold last copy a couple of weeks ago
Thanks for any help in advance
Cheers James P.
James, are you riding this on the road? If so I'd go for a rigid fork, especially with your budget. Bikes in your mentioned price range are normally equiped with carbon forks - and are quite comfy.
A CRX is a faster bicycle than a Talon or Perigee. Seeing you will be visiting a Giant dealer, also try out a 08 OCR1. You'll find the extra hand positions useful. If you are riding on gravel/grass you can swap over with cyclocross tyres.
I know the temptation to purchase something with a suspension fork and disc brakes as a first commuter bike. lt's a trap we all go through and most end up with multiple bikes .
A CRX is a faster bicycle than a Talon or Perigee. Seeing you will be visiting a Giant dealer, also try out a 08 OCR1. You'll find the extra hand positions useful. If you are riding on gravel/grass you can swap over with cyclocross tyres.
I know the temptation to purchase something with a suspension fork and disc brakes as a first commuter bike. lt's a trap we all go through and most end up with multiple bikes
.
Thanks JeremyPJeremyP said:James, are you riding this on the road? If so I'd go for a rigid fork, especially with your budget. Bikes in your mentioned price range are normally equiped with carbon forks - and are quite comfy.
A CRX is a faster bicycle than a Talon or Perigee. Seeing you will be visiting a Giant dealer, also try out a 08 OCR1. You'll find the extra hand positions useful. If you are riding on gravel/grass you can swap over with cyclocross tyres.
I know the temptation to purchase something with a suspension fork and disc brakes as a first commuter bike. lt's a trap we all go through and most end up with multiple bikes
I did go to my Giant dealer I had walked past a Giant CRX - Zero on a number of occasions. RRP AU$2296 . Never asked about it because it was out of my price range. Liked the look of it
cool . Probably the right size .. SM:"Nice bike.. weren't you the quy asking about it?" Me:"No it is Nice, but its too expensive" ..."Its over 2 grand and definitly out of my price range."...SM:"Whats your price range again?..Me:"$1000 to $1300. But would you consider $1500?"...SM:"No my boss would sack me tomorrow"...Boss overhears..BOSS:"It is an ex demo was taken out for a couple of hours by a magazine a couple of months ago and everyone that has seen it has been the wrong size for them"...WELL I now have a $1500 hole in my pocket.
And a fantastic bike. I have done 100k on it and it is great smooth and quick to boot. I hope it does not rain tomorrow ... so I can ride to work again on it.
Thanks for all the feed back
Cheers all
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