Best "Be Seen" LED Light? Front and Rear?

[Gurrie]

I am after an LED to compliment my Halogen bike lights.

Ideally to assist with the "be seen" factor - even during the daylight
hours, not just night time.

What is the general view on a good front light? Also looking for an
additional, good rear light?

Don't care if drivers thing I look like a Christmas tree - in fact thats
what I want! It means they see me if they think that.

Any recommendations are appreciated.

Craig

 

[hippy]

Gurrie wrote:
> I am after an LED to compliment my Halogen bike lights.
>
> Ideally to assist with the "be seen" factor - even during the daylight
> hours, not just night time.
>
> What is the general view on a good front light? Also looking for an
> additional, good rear light?
>
> Don't care if drivers thing I look like a Christmas tree - in fact thats
> what I want! It means they see me if they think that.
>
> Any recommendations are appreciated.

I haven't used all 'that' many but I do really like VistaLite Eclipse
for a rear flasher (probably hard to get now with the VistaLite
distributor issues) and the S-Sun or similar 3-LED front light. $30 and
$40 respectively.

hippy

 

[Plodder]

"Gurrie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am after an LED to compliment my Halogen bike lights.
>
> Ideally to assist with the "be seen" factor - even during the daylight
> hours, not just night time.
>
> What is the general view on a good front light? Also looking for an
> additional, good rear light?
>
> Don't care if drivers thing I look like a Christmas tree - in fact thats
> what I want! It means they see me if they think that.
>
> Any recommendations are appreciated.
>
> Craig

I got one of those Xenon strobe lights. There's one here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7151364272
&rd=1
Bloody bright! If they can't see this, they shouldn't be driving. I use
this as the rear, a flashing 3 LED light in front, a flashing LED on my
backpack, two Knog lights velcroed to my helment (one flashing, one steady).
All these are so I'm seen. I use a Cateye Opticube to see with (adequate,
not great). I also use a Kathmandu Illumi Nite backpack; the reflective
fabric works well. I have several bits of reflective tape on my frame too,
as well as those Knog handlebar-end lights.

Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I think
it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
motorcycles and peds. The "normal" things on the road. There are not enogh
of us to be one of the normal things so we slide under the attention radar.

Best it to be well lit, but don't put your faith in your equipment to keep
you safe. Pay attention to yourself and every other bugger. The drivers who
think you look like a Christmas tree aren't the ones you need to worry
about - they've seen you. It's the blinkered buggers who don't see you no
matter what you do that'll get you.

Cheers,

Frank

 

[aeek]

Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I think
it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
motorcycles and peds.

disagree, just for cars & bigger.

 

[Plodder]

"aeek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Plodder Wrote:
> >
> > Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I
> > think
> > it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
> > motorcycles and peds.
>
> disagree, just for cars & bigger.
>
>
> --
> aeek

Yeah... you're prolly closer to right than me. How about:
High on radar - cars and bigger
Mid radar - motorcycles
Low on radr - peds
Just about off the radar - bikes

Frank
>

 

[flyingdutch]

snipparge ...

Any recommendations are appreciated.

Craig

if its for the 'be seen' factor, consider...

I place 2 of them small LEDs with fast-flash setting on the front of my helmet and a red on the rear.
These compliment my 5/10W cateyes(front) and another 3-light on my back.

The ones on the front of your helmet are great, cos you can direct them AT drivers wanting to pull out of sidestreets, peds, etc and with 2 of em flashing out of sync its almost impossible to ignore em.
Cos they are attached by their simple elastic/strap bittie with a slipknot thru the vents in my hemet they are easy to remove/change bikes (and the big meanies at Glenvale would larf at me )

Also big advantage in traffic as the light isnt obscured/hidden by cars next to you. Raising youre head or 'standing' means those pesky righthand-turners can see you over the car next to you, etc.

They also have a rahter disco affect on all street signs, lighting em up like xmas trees.
Anyone behind you WTF is going on and gets yet another way of noticing you too.

AND they freak dogs out big time

cost? approx $15each and battery life is good ( approx 3 monthly and $3each to replace)

 

[hippy]

flyingdutch wrote:
> I place 2 of them small LEDs with fast-flash setting on the front of my
> helmet and a red on the rear.
> These compliment my 5/10W cateyes(front) and another 3-light on my
> back.
>
> The ones on the front of your helmet are great, cos you can direct them
> AT drivers wanting to pull out of sidestreets, peds, etc and with 2 of
> em flashing out of sync its almost impossible to ignore em.
> Cos they are attached by their simple elastic/strap bittie with a
> slipknot thru the vents in my hemet they are easy to remove/change
> bikes (and the big meanies at Glenvale would larf at me )
>
> Also big advantage in traffic as the light isnt obscured/hidden by
> cars next to you. Raising youre head or 'standing' means those pesky
> righthand-turners can see you over the car next to you, etc.
>
> They also have a rahter disco affect on all street signs, lighting em
> up like xmas trees.
> Anyone behind you WTF is going on and gets yet another way of noticing
> you too.
>
> AND they freak dogs out big time
>
> cost? approx $15each and battery life is good ( approx 3 monthly and
> $3each to replace)

I like your dual helmet beam setup. I found a single X-Lite to be quite
insufficient but I also wasn't going to spend $8 (yes, yuppie scum
Hawthorn prices!!) to replace a single X-Lite's batteries every three
months. That's good beer money!!

A while after the first battery swap in my X-Lite, it died. I thought I
was careful with the rubber water seal but perhaps not careful enough?

http://www.thehippy.net/nucleus/index.php?itemid=148

hippy
"jibber jabber"

 

[Gurrie]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I was digging around and found some old rectangle shaped VistaLite flashers.

Anyone had any experience upgrading the LEDs in them? Jaycar carry some
retina buring 20,000mcd LEDs which I'd love to try.

Just not sure if it would work and what resisitors to add etc.

"hippy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> flyingdutch wrote:
>> I place 2 of them small LEDs with fast-flash setting on the front of my
>> helmet and a red on the rear.
>> These compliment my 5/10W cateyes(front) and another 3-light on my
>> back.
>>
>> The ones on the front of your helmet are great, cos you can direct them
>> AT drivers wanting to pull out of sidestreets, peds, etc and with 2 of
>> em flashing out of sync its almost impossible to ignore em.
>> Cos they are attached by their simple elastic/strap bittie with a
>> slipknot thru the vents in my hemet they are easy to remove/change
>> bikes (and the big meanies at Glenvale would larf at me )
>>
>> Also big advantage in traffic as the light isnt obscured/hidden by
>> cars next to you. Raising youre head or 'standing' means those pesky
>> righthand-turners can see you over the car next to you, etc.
>>
>> They also have a rahter disco affect on all street signs, lighting em
>> up like xmas trees.
>> Anyone behind you WTF is going on and gets yet another way of noticing
>> you too.
>>
>> AND they freak dogs out big time
>>
>> cost? approx $15each and battery life is good ( approx 3 monthly and
>> $3each to replace)
>
> I like your dual helmet beam setup. I found a single X-Lite to be quite
> insufficient but I also wasn't going to spend $8 (yes, yuppie scum
> Hawthorn prices!!) to replace a single X-Lite's batteries every three
> months. That's good beer money!!
>
> A while after the first battery swap in my X-Lite, it died. I thought I
> was careful with the rubber water seal but perhaps not careful enough?
>
> http://www.thehippy.net/nucleus/index.php?itemid=148
>
> hippy
> "jibber jabber"

 

[HughMann]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I was digging around and found some old rectangle shaped VistaLite flashers.

Anyone had any experience upgrading the LEDs in them? Jaycar carry some
retina buring 20,000mcd LEDs which I'd love to try.

Just not sure if it would work and what resisitors to add etc.

[/color]

Havent had experience with that light but have done some fairly untidy hacks to the el cheapo $1.50 blinkies.

First problem I found was that the( Jaycar, and all I think) 20,000mcd Leds operate from 3.4 volts and the ones fitted were much lower voltage so "no go". No 1 for 1 swap.
Then the IC to give the Blink is a special low voltage job so cant hack that!

So, forget the blink, cut a piece of veroboard same size as PCB, mount 3 x 20,000mcd Leds (parallel), wire up sub minature toggle switch, hack, file, nibble, hot melt glue gun. It works!

Could have got all techo and used a low voltage cmos 7555 timer IC and a fancy sub minature rotary switch to give the blink but wanted it NOW not in 12 months.

No resistor required as its a 3 volt supply and leds operate at 3.4v, just rely on internal resistance of leds. Wouldnt use more than 3 leds in parallel as variations in internal R can cause problems apparently.
Bloody bright but will slowly get dim as batteries go flat. Batteries last me about 6 months of riding 5 nights a week for just under 2 hours.

Cheers
Hugh

 

[flyingdutch]

Havent had experience with that light but have done some fairly untidy hacks to the el cheapo $1.50 blinkies.

First problem I found was that the( Jaycar, and all I think) 20,000mcd Leds operate from 3.4 volts and the ones fitted were much lower voltage so "no go". No 1 for 1 swap.
Then the IC to give the Blink is a special low voltage job so cant hack that!

So, forget the blink, cut a piece of veroboard same size as PCB, mount 3 x 20,000mcd Leds (parallel), wire up sub minature toggle switch, hack, file, nibble, hot melt glue gun. It works!

Could have got all techo and used a low voltage cmos 7555 timer IC and a fancy sub minature rotary switch to give the blink but wanted it NOW not in 12 months.

No resistor required as its a 3 volt supply and leds operate at 3.4v, just rely on internal resistance of leds. Wouldnt use more than 3 leds in parallel as variations in internal R can cause problems apparently.
Bloody bright but will slowly get dim as batteries go flat. Batteries last me about 6 months of riding 5 nights a week for just under 2 hours.

Cheers
Hugh

Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?

cheers
FD

 

[Gags]

"Plodder" <CORNED BEEF@NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Gurrie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am after an LED to compliment my Halogen bike lights.
> >
> > Ideally to assist with the "be seen" factor - even during the daylight
> > hours, not just night time.
> >
> > What is the general view on a good front light? Also looking for an
> > additional, good rear light?
> >
> > Don't care if drivers thing I look like a Christmas tree - in fact thats
> > what I want! It means they see me if they think that.
> >
> > Any recommendations are appreciated.
> >
> > Craig
>
> I got one of those Xenon strobe lights. There's one here:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7151364272
> &rd=1
> Bloody bright! If they can't see this, they shouldn't be driving. I use
> this as the rear, a flashing 3 LED light in front, a flashing LED on my
> backpack, two Knog lights velcroed to my helment (one flashing, one
steady).
> All these are so I'm seen. I use a Cateye Opticube to see with (adequate,
> not great). I also use a Kathmandu Illumi Nite backpack; the reflective
> fabric works well. I have several bits of reflective tape on my frame too,
> as well as those Knog handlebar-end lights.
>
> Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I think
> it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
> motorcycles and peds. The "normal" things on the road. There are not enogh
> of us to be one of the normal things so we slide under the attention
radar.
>
> Best it to be well lit, but don't put your faith in your equipment to keep
> you safe. Pay attention to yourself and every other bugger. The drivers
who
> think you look like a Christmas tree aren't the ones you need to worry
> about - they've seen you. It's the blinkered buggers who don't see you no
> matter what you do that'll get you.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
>
Frank,

You don't happen to be in Melbourne and commute down Heidelberg road do
you??? I passed someone one day last week just before the Hoddle St
overpass and he had a very similar setup to what you have described here.

Gags

 

[HughMann]

Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?

cheers
FD

Yep, can do that. Inacoupladays.
Assumes that you mean the no blink version as I havent done the brain work on the blinky one.

Got the cheapo blinkie in Sydney ( Campsie) at one of those chinese bargain shops like you would probably find over in Footiscray.

cheers
Hugh

 

[dave]

Plodder wrote:
> "aeek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Plodder Wrote:
>>
>>>Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I
>>>think
>>>it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
>>>motorcycles and peds.
>>
>>disagree, just for cars & bigger.
>>
>>
>>--
>>aeek
>
>
> Yeah... you're prolly closer to right than me. How about:
> High on radar - cars and bigger
> Mid radar - motorcycles
> Low on radr - peds
> Just about off the radar - bikes
>
> Frank
>
>
>
You dont ride a motorbike do you?

 

[Gurrie]

www.jaycar.com.au

Stock-Code ZD1790

Looking at the attached pdf specs, the forward voltage is typically 2.1v
with a max of 2.7v

No idea about the flasher though.



"HughMann" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> flyingdutch Wrote:
>> Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
>> preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?
>>
>> cheers
>> FD
>
>
> Yep, can do that. Inacoupladays.
> Assumes that you mean the no blink version as I havent done the brain
> work on the blinky one.
>
> Got the cheapo blinkie in Sydney ( Campsie) at one of those chinese
> bargain shops like you would probably find over in Footiscray.
>
> cheers
> Hugh
>
>
> --
> HughMann
>

 

[Plodder]

"dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Plodder wrote:
> > "aeek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Plodder Wrote:
> >>
> >>>Despite all this, I still get too many "Geez! I didn't see you!"s. I
> >>>think
> >>>it's that when non-riders are driving cars they look for other cars,
> >>>motorcycles and peds.
> >>
> >>disagree, just for cars & bigger.
> >>
> >>
> >>--
> >>aeek
> >
> >
> > Yeah... you're prolly closer to right than me. How about:
> > High on radar - cars and bigger
> > Mid radar - motorcycles
> > Low on radr - peds
> > Just about off the radar - bikes
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> >
> You dont ride a motorbike do you?

I used to... I don't since a close friend broke his neck and many other bits
in a silly prang (a ute turned in front of him). Helping to nurse him and
cleaning the bolt holes in his head where the halo vest screwed in cured me
of motorbikes.

Frank

 

[Plodder]

"Gags" <gags_44nospamatnospamtpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Plodder" <CORNED BEEF@NOSPAM> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
><SNIPP>

> Frank,
>
> You don't happen to be in Melbourne and commute down Heidelberg road do
> you??? I passed someone one day last week just before the Hoddle St
> overpass and he had a very similar setup to what you have described here.
>
> Gags

Nup. I live in the Perth hills and often ride to places from my girlfriend's
place in Gosnells. Real hoon territory there, hence the heaps of lighting.
Bike paths are a joke and bike lanes are ignored. I just wanna be seen!

Frank

 

[Andrew Reddaway]

flyingdutch wrote:

SNIP

> if its for the 'be seen' factor, consider...
>
> I place 2 of them small LEDs with fast-flash setting on the front of
> my helmet and a red on the rear.
> These compliment my 5/10W cateyes(front) and another 3-light on my
> back.
>
> The ones on the front of your helmet are great, cos you can direct
> them AT drivers wanting to pull out of sidestreets, peds, etc and
> with 2 of em flashing out of sync its almost impossible to ignore em.
> Cos they are attached by their simple elastic/strap bittie with a
> slipknot thru the vents in my hemet they are easy to remove/change
> bikes (and the big meanies at Glenvale would larf at me )

I've wrapped some electro-luminescent wire around my helmet. It's
attached with clear tape, and the 2xAA battery unit is held on with
elastic at the back. Not super-bright, but definitely "glows" orange
and is nicely visible. The wire's from Jaycar.

 

[HughMann]

have done some fairly untidy hacks to the el cheapo $1.50 blinkies

HughMann

Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?

cheers
FD

Ok heres a RHG. Hope it doesnt draw too much flack!

From the start I prefer to buy electronic bits from Jaycar as the staff at least know which end to hold a soldering iron. ( there quite good really)

Light Emitting Diodes (LED's) are polarised, that is they have a positive and a negative lead, sometimes referred to as an anode ( + ) or ( a ) and a cathode ( - ) or ( k ). To identify which lead is which some manufacturers make the + lead slightly longer. If you hold the LED up to the light you can see inside. You will see a small gap between the two electrodes inside . The + electrode is the smaller one inside while the - is larger and is sort of cup shaped on top. Photo attached I hope.

LED's need to operate in a specific voltage and current range. The LED needs to be "matched" to the voltage from the supply battery with a resistor in series, that is one end of the resistor is soldered to one end of the LED, doesn't matter which end.

The two pieces of walk away info needed when you buy LED's is, 1. the forward voltage drop of the LED, and, 2. the operating current. If the sales guy is switched on you could ask, " what size resistor do I need to run this from 3 volts" or whatever you are using. Its an extra sale for him, all of 10 cents or so.
For those with the urge this is the formula to work out the resistor for yourself.

R=(E-Vf)x1000/I

R= Resistance in ohms
E=DC supply voltage
I=LED current in mA ( milli amps)
Vf=forward voltage drop of LED


Here is a guide. Resistors don't come in all values, within 5% is quite acceptable here.

See Pics. This editor is not WYSIWYG

Sh1T cant get this to BBBbloddy work. Havent got a web page to upload from GRRRRRR all that work for ****


Constructing a front "be seen" light or a super bright non blinking tail light is probably easiest done using Vero Board and PCB pins. Vero Board is easily cut to size with a hacksaw and where needed the copper tracks can be cut by hand with a couple of turns of a 3mm twist drill.
Using PCB pins makes the project fairly forgiving of poor soldering. Poke the legs of the components through from the plain side and solder to the copper tracks. Do not push the LED's snug against the board but leave about a 2mm gap so that they can be pushed around later to get a good spread of light. PCB pins can be used to anchor wires from the battery or switch. Just push the pin into the desired hole from the plain side, solder on copper side, twist wire around the pin and solder.

One thing to be aware of is that the 20,000mcd LED's have a very narrow viewing angle, about 4 degrees. Some of the less potent LED's, say 12,000 or 16,000mcd have viewing angles near double and they cost much less. Discuss this with the sales android if you really want to impress.

Hope thats not too tech or that I am have over simplified it. Dunno what you know about this electronics stuff FD.
Just remember that all those little bits are full of smoke and if it leaks out u r stuffed.


Cheers

Hugh

Who rode 119km on Sunday, up Herveys Range and back, and is sore.

 

[Marty]

HughMann wrote:
> have done some fairly untidy hacks to the el cheapo $1.50 blinkies
>
> HughMann
>
> flyingdutch Wrote:
>
>>Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
>>preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?
>>
>>cheers
>>FD
>
>
>
> Ok heres a RHG. Hope it doesnt draw too much flack!
>
> From the start I prefer to buy electronic bits from Jaycar as the staff
> at least know which end to hold a soldering iron. ( there quite good
> really)
>
> Light Emitting Diodes (LED's) are polarised, that is they have a
> positive and a negative lead, sometimes referred to as an anode ( + )
> or ( a ) and a cathode ( - ) or ( k ). To identify which lead is which
> some manufacturers make the + lead slightly longer. If you hold the LED
> up to the light you can see inside. You will see a small gap between
> the two electrodes inside . The + electrode is the smaller one inside
> while the - is larger and is sort of cup shaped on top. Photo attached
> I hope.
>
> LED's need to operate in a specific voltage and current range. The LED
> needs to be "matched" to the voltage from the supply battery with a
> resistor in series, that is one end of the resistor is soldered to one
> end of the LED, doesn't matter which end.
>
> The two pieces of walk away info needed when you buy LED's is, 1. the
> forward voltage drop of the LED, and, 2. the operating current. If
> the sales guy is switched on you could ask, " what size resistor do I
> need to run this from 3 volts" or whatever you are using. Its an extra
> sale for him, all of 10 cents or so.
> For those with the urge this is the formula to work out the resistor
> for yourself.
>
> R=(E-Vf)x1000/I
>
> R= Resistance in ohms
> E=DC supply voltage
> I=LED current in mA ( milli amps)
> Vf=forward voltage drop of LED
>
>
> Here is a guide. Resistors don't come in all values, within 5% is
> quite acceptable here.
>
> See Pics. This editor is not WYSIWYG
>
> Sh1T cant get this to BBBbloddy work. Havent got a web page to upload
> from GRRRRRR all that work for ****
>
>
> Constructing a front "be seen" light or a super bright non blinking
> tail light is probably easiest done using Vero Board and PCB pins.
> Vero Board is easily cut to size with a hacksaw and where needed the
> copper tracks can be cut by hand with a couple of turns of a 3mm twist
> drill.
> Using PCB pins makes the project fairly forgiving of poor soldering.
> Poke the legs of the components through from the plain side and solder
> to the copper tracks. Do not push the LED's snug against the board but
> leave about a 2mm gap so that they can be pushed around later to get a
> good spread of light. PCB pins can be used to anchor wires from the
> battery or switch. Just push the pin into the desired hole from the
> plain side, solder on copper side, twist wire around the pin and
> solder.
>
> One thing to be aware of is that the 20,000mcd LED's have a very narrow
> viewing angle, about 4 degrees. Some of the less potent LED's, say
> 12,000 or 16,000mcd have viewing angles near double and they cost much
> less. Discuss this with the sales android if you really want to
> impress.
>
> Hope thats not too tech or that I am have over simplified it. Dunno
> what you know about this electronics stuff FD.
> Just remember that all those little bits are full of smoke and if it
> leaks out u r stuffed.
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Hugh
>
> Who rode 119km on Sunday, up Herveys Range and back, and is sore.
>
>

Trouble is , by the time you've bought all the bits and stuff it's
usually cost you more. Plus you still need a water resistant box to put
it all in. It's usually cheaper and easier to buy one. I've modified a
few, swapping the red LEDs for blue ones and they've always worked.

The resistor value isn't strictly true in this case because when a
commercial tail light or headlight is in the constant ON mode it's still
blinking, just at a very high frequency. And when a LED blinks it can
handle more current as a pulse than it can as a constant current because
the heat dissipated averages out. So you get a brighter light for the
same total energy use. (Think of a Xenon strobe.)Also, pulsing enables
you to use lower battery voltages because you can use tricky electronics
to boost the voltage. 3 volts is barely enough to overcome the foward
volt drop on some types of LEDs.

Hope I didn't complicate things

Marty

 

[HughMann]

HughMann wrote:
> have done some fairly untidy hacks to the el cheapo $1.50 blinkies
>
> HughMann
>
> flyingdutch Wrote:
>
>>Any chance you could draw a diagram of this Hughmann?
>>preferably in such a way that an idiot like me can decioher?
>>
>>cheers
>>FD
>
>
>

Trouble is , by the time you've bought all the bits and stuff it's
usually cost you more. Plus you still need a water resistant box to put
it all in. It's usually cheaper and easier to buy one. I've modified a
few, swapping the red LEDs for blue ones and they've always worked.

The resistor value isn't strictly true in this case because when a
commercial tail light or headlight is in the constant ON mode it's still
blinking, just at a very high frequency. And when a LED blinks it can
handle more current as a pulse than it can as a constant current because
the heat dissipated averages out. So you get a brighter light for the
same total energy use. (Think of a Xenon strobe.)Also, pulsing enables
you to use lower battery voltages because you can use tricky electronics
to boost the voltage. 3 volts is barely enough to overcome the foward
volt drop on some types of LEDs.

Hope I didn't complicate things

Marty

Yep everything you say is right. There are lots of "tricky electronics" in the $50 blinkies but when you have got a junk box full of useful stuff it doesnt cost much to cobble something cheap and basic together.
The blinkie I was refering to cost $1.50, plus 3 x 12,000mcd LEDS @ $1.80 ea, veroboard - junk box, switch - recycled and the fun of making it myself and watching it work .... Priceless!

Cheers
Hugh