Best & worst of cycling products



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Al Frost:

> - Rear suspension for MTBs - I bet most are sold just 'cause they look "cool"

No, most are sold because it allows more comfort on terrain which would knock hardtail riders off
their bikes. It's a machine for a special purpose.
 
Al Frost <[email protected]> writes:

<snip>

> Worst
>
> - Rear suspension for MTBs - I bet most are sold just 'cause they look "cool"

Oh, I would put that close to 'best'. It makes a huge difference to cycling hill-country tracks and
getting places which, twenty years ago, just wouldn't be practicable on a bike. Yes, I know that
it's a bit silly in urban situations, and I know a lot of people use good hill bikes in urban
situations. But in its own environment it's a good thing. I'm also moderately persuaded that disk
brakes are a good thing, although the cost/benefit is not so clear.

But my 2003 model hill bike with full suspension and hydraulic disks is four pounds _lighter_ than
my 1990 model with no suspension and cantilevers; and it makes me about 15% faster on the same
tracks. Now admittedly I could instead have bought a state-of-the-art rigid mountain bike weighing
another ten pounds less, but I don't think I'd go as fast on a 17lb rigid as I do on a 27lb full
suspension bike. I certainly wouldn't be as comfortable so I couldn't keep going for so long, and I
don't believe I'd have as much fun. And seeing that for me a hill bike is fundamentally a toy, the
full suspension bike is a better toy.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

do not sail on uphill water
- Bill Lee
 
Terry Morse wrote:

> ajames54 wrote:
>
>
>>Threadless have no benefit other than weight and then not much benefit there...
>
>
> Written by someone who has never tried to remove a frozen quill stem.
> --
> terry morse Palo Alto, CA http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/

Using that logic we have lost one telescoping joint with the quill stem. The next logical one to
attack is the seat post, freezing due to corrosion is common, lets get rid of it. Just clamp the
seat directly to the extended seat tube, if it is too long saw it off, perhaps leave some spacers in
case the seat needs lowering. If you need it higher you can flip the clamp or get a new taller one
or get a crappy looking extension or a new frame.

If one made sense the other should too.

Mind you as ludicrous as a steerer looks sticking up four inches to allow future adjustability and
the possible heath hazard that creates in the event of a crash. It has nothing on deciding to leave
the seat tube long. ;-)

Marcus "hoarder of quill stems and seat posts" Coles
 
[email protected] (Rik O'Shea) writes:

> Best & worst of cycling products

OK, here's mine. Best:

(i) SPDs and other clipless pedals. Hooray! No more trackstanding at traffic lights, and all
the other stupid things we used to do because it was just so damned inconvenient to get
our feet out.

(ii) Much better clips for bar bags. Twenty years ago my bar-bag *buckled* onto my handlebars.
Fifteen years ago it clipped onto a sort of bent wire thingie which went under the stem, over
the bars and under the bag. These days I have a modular quick-release unit <URL:
http://www.klickfix.de/lenkeradaptere.htm > which clicks the bag on and off quickly and easily
and holds it securely, and has the added advantage that I can have one clip on each of my
bikes and just stick my bag on the one I happen to be going out on.

(iii) Lights good enough to go off road with. Twenty years ago the only decent lights for bikes -
ones which threw enough light to move at a decent pace - were dynamos, and if you slowed down
to negotiate anything tricky it all went dark. Lights like my lumicycle change all that <URL:
http://www.lumicycle.co.uk/ >.

(iv) Flashing LED rear lights. They may not be strictly legal here in the UK yet, but they are so
much more noticable that they are definitely my choice.

Worst:

(v) Exposed transmission on mountain bikes. Yes, I know this isn't new, but twenty years of
innovation should have come up with a solution. It is just plain daft to have an exposed
chain, and a delicate exposed gear-change mechanism exposed to grit and bouncing rocks and
dragged through vegetation and mud. The Nicolai trick of putting a Rohloff at the rear
suspension pivot is interesting and a step in the right direction, but it doesn't go far
enough and in any case the Nicolai bikes are too downhill oriented for my taste.

(vi) Indexed front deraileurs. You _have_ to be able to trim your front deraileur!

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

do not sail on uphill water
- Bill Lee
 
"Zog The Undeniable" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Rik O'Shea wrote:
>
> > Best & worst of cycling products
>
> Best:
>
> 1. Tyres that don't (or hardly ever) puncture. We're not at steel-belted car tyre levels of
> reliability yet, but tyres like the Vredestein PRS models roll well and don't even need Kevlar.
>
> 2. Clipless pedals. With the giveaway price of SPDs these days, who would want anything else?
>
> 3. Brakes that work. Shimano dual-pivots are fantastic if you were brought up on crappy Weinmann
> side-pulls.
>
> 4. Thumbshifters on mountain bikes. Never bettered, RIP. Why someone can't make 9-speed thumbies
> is beyond me.
>
www.forge-mtb.com has thumbies! I just need to get around to ordering myself a set...

> 5. Little cheap computers. I remember tyre-driven speedometers.
>
> 6. Rear LED lights.
>
> Worst:
>
> 1. Chains that need special joining pins. With 7 and 8 speed I used to junk them and get a Sedis.
> I can only get my 9 speed bike running reliably with a "proper" Shimano chain - Dura-Ace at
> that.
>
> 2. Rapidfire shifters. Why?
>
> 3. The Rock Shox Ruby road fork. OK for Paris-Roubaix I suppose, but as useful as a chocolate
> teapot otherwise.
>
> 4. Cannondale Force 40 brakes. Contrary to what some people say, not all that difficult to set up,
> but the claimed 40% extra braking power is presumably in comparison with sticking your foot
> down.
>
> 5. Disc brakes. Instead of using a perfectly good rotor that has to be on the bike anyway (the
> rim), let's add another one. No, you can't have a radial front wheel any more and these things
> put more force on your spokes than an 18" granny gear. Oh yes, and the front wheel might pop
> out occasionally.
>
Now this one I have to disagree with. Having ridden discs, I found that they're much more better
than rim brakes in certain conditions. Wet, muddy rides being the place that discs have the
advantage.

> 6. That saddle I bought last year and rode for 50 miles until my perineum felt like it was
> bleeding.
 
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:03:50 +0100, Zog The Undeniable <[email protected]> wrote:
>2. Rapidfire shifters. Why?

"ticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktick" sure makes it
hard to concentrate on enjoying the ride. I shift to ride, I don't ride to shift.
--
Rick Onanian
 
> >>>(3) Threadless fork/ahead stem I recall trying to explain to a college in work that in order to
> >>> raise the height of the handlebars on his new shiny MTB that he either had to get a new
> >>> stem with a steeper angle or a get a new threadless fork cut higher. This is definitely
> >>> progress.
> >>
> >>Your explanation lacked several popular options for solving that problem at moderate expense.
> >>
> >>http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=SM2787
> >>
> >>http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&SKU=SM2854
> >>
> >>And a shiny new mountain bike, if it came from a bike dealer, should come with some
> >>consideration for making the bike fit the purchaser. If not then it's the dealer that's
> >>inferior, not the bike.
> >>
> >>--Paul
> >
> >
> >In most cases they come out of the box cut to length..
> >
> >But you are recommending buying a product to solve a problem with another product that was
> >created to solve a problem that did not exist... Threadless have no benefit other than weight and
> >then not much benefit there...
> >
> >
> >Oh OH! this might want to go into the Cows thread...
>
> It's already there, more than once.
>
> Not worth arguing about; those who like the threadless stems are welcome to use them, and those
> who aren't need not pay any attention to the hype. (I keep waiting for someone to come out with a
> star-nut-less threadless clamp that would onbiate the whole thing...)
>

Cannondale and their Headshoks didn't have a star fangled nut. Then again, try finding the right
stem in their 1.5" size...

Mike

> --
> My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
> don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.
 
> >
> >>Threadless have no benefit other than weight and then not much benefit there...
> >
> >
> > Written by someone who has never tried to remove a frozen quill stem.
> > --
> > terry morse Palo Alto, CA http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/
>
> Using that logic we have lost one telescoping joint with the quill stem. The next logical one to
> attack is the seat post, freezing due to corrosion is common, lets get rid of it. Just clamp the
> seat directly to the extended seat tube, if it is too long saw it off, perhaps leave some spacers
> in case the seat needs lowering. If you need it higher you can flip the clamp or get a new taller
> one or get a crappy looking extension or a new frame.
>
> If one made sense the other should too.
>
> Mind you as ludicrous as a steerer looks sticking up four inches to allow future adjustability and
> the possible heath hazard that creates in the event of a crash. It has nothing on deciding to
> leave the seat tube long. ;-)
>
> Marcus "hoarder of quill stems and seat posts" Coles
>
>

I saw a picture of a carbon somethingorother bike online recently. They did just what you're
thinking of: the seatpost is about 3cm long. Evidently you need to cut the extended ST to size.
Better not goof!

Mike
 
> (3) Threadless fork/ahead stem

It looks cooler. Walmart bikes don't have them. Must... differentiate... from total... ****...

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
In article <[email protected]>, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
>should set bikes up with the stems lower when they know that almost everybody wants it higher?
>
>If so, I don't agree; I support the standard industry practice of setting the stem as high as it
>will go unless the customer desires it to be lowered (which almost never happens.)

Not to mention showing off the scratched finish on the quill when they inevitably demand it be
raised to the max or higher!
 
An anonymous poster wrote:
>>>But you are recommending buying a product to solve a problem with another product that was
>>>created to solve a problem that did not exist... Threadless have no benefit other than weight and
>>>then not much benefit there...

I replied:

>>The same is true with threaded headsets/quill stems! Most bike shops assemble new bikes with the
>>stem all the way up to the "minimum insertion" mark. If the customer wants the bars higher, a new
>>stem or a stem extender is needed...so where's the advantage?
>
>
> but there is still and inch and a half of motion downward... just because "most bike shops" do
> things foolishly does

I don't understand what you mean by that...are you implying that shops should set bikes up with the
stems lower when they know that almost everybody wants it higher?

If so, I don't agree; I support the standard industry practice of setting the stem as high as it
will go unless the customer desires it to be lowered (which almost never happens.)

> not detract from the fact that a quill stem has more potential adjustment than an Aheadset
> style system.

Only in theory. When you consider that threadless-type stems are generally reversible, you get a
greater range of motion than might be apparent.

In practice, neither system permits the commonly desired upward adjustment without replacing parts.

It's not specifically linked to the Aheadset system, but the prevalence of two-bolt "pillow block"
stems has greatly improved the ease of substituting stems of different amounts of rise and reach.
The net result is that it's now much easier for a shop to do a good fit, since the handlebar
grips/tape and controls don't need to be removed to swap out the stem.

> I don't deny that these extenders seam like a reasonable solution to the problem they address...
> however the problem itself originates from a change in design that achieved nothing of note..

The switch to threadless has reduced costs and probably improved safety. You don't see threadless
stems raised way above the "minimum insertion" mark as is all too common with expander/wedge stems.

Sheldon "I Like 'Em, Functionally, But Still Prefer The Look Of The Classic '7'" Brown
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Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts
shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
So, how did you free up those frozen stems? What is the secret? I've loosened the bolt a few turns
and knocked the wedge down and whacked the stem a few times with a hammer and wood with no movement
at all. Please help.
> >
> >Written by someone who has never tried to remove a frozen quill stem.
>
>
> Spent 8 years in a bike shop owned one for more than 4... I've seen many a frozen stem... only a
> few of which were any real difficulty at all.
 
RE/
>3 of The Worst

4) Maybe not "worst", but skewers. What good does a skewer do that a bolt with a
5mm-Allen-key-friendly nut wouldn't do?
--
PeteCresswell
 
Marcus Coles wrote:

>
>
> Terry Morse wrote:
>
>> ajames54 wrote:
>>
>>> Threadless have no benefit other than weight and then not much benefit there...
>> Written by someone who has never tried to remove a frozen quill stem.
>> --
>> terry morse Palo Alto, CA http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/
>
> Using that logic we have lost one telescoping joint with the quill stem. The next logical one to
> attack is the seat post, freezing due to corrosion is common, lets get rid of it. Just clamp the
> seat directly to the extended seat tube, if it is too long saw it off, perhaps leave some spacers
> in case the seat needs lowering. If you need it higher you can flip the clamp or get a new taller
> one or get a crappy looking extension or a new frame.
>
> If one made sense the other should too.

A quill stem "clamps" at the bottom, with an expander bold type of mechanism. The seat post, on the
other hand, clamps at the top of the seat tube. It is the former case that causes the most problems,
with water and sweat being forced into the steerer by pumping action.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Reader, suppose you were an idiot. And suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.
-- Mark Twain
 
Best new products for me:
1. It may not be really new, but the Burley Rapid Rider Jacket is without a doubt truly great. It
has a unique ventilation system which really works for bike riding in all kinds of weather.
2. White L.E.D. headlights. I like the CatEye EL300.
3. I suspect that the White Industries Fixed/Free Eccentric Hubs are very good for the right
application, but haven't tried them.
4. New to me products that are old to someone else. That stash of Suntour barcons is dwindling.

Worst:
5. I use to have a thing against "boutique" wheels. Now I love them -- since I found a virtually
brand new wheel set at a yard sale (ultegra hubs, 24 spokes, laced to Mavic Open Pro Silver rims,
with velox tape). The owner had just "upgraded."
 
In article <[email protected]>, Zog The Undeniable <[email protected]> wrote:
>1. Chains that need special joining pins. With 7 and 8 speed I used to junk them and get a Sedis. I
> can only get my 9 speed bike running reliably with a "proper" Shimano chain - Dura-Ace at that.

The Sachs PC-69 works fine on my Ultegra 9 speed. It's a triple too.

--
Mike Iglesias Email: [email protected] University of California, Irvine phone: 949-824-6926
Network & Academic Computing Services FAX: 949-824-2069
 
"(Pete Cresswell)" <[email protected]> wrote:

> RE/
> >3 of The Worst
>
> 4) Maybe not "worst", but skewers. What good does a skewer do that a bolt with a
> 5mm-Allen-key-friendly nut wouldn't do?

It allows removal of the wheel with no tool needed. Which can be a drawback in some places.

--
Ted Bennett Portland OR
 
Benjamin Lewis wrote:
> Marcus Coles wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Terry Morse wrote:
>>
>>
>>>ajames54 wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Threadless have no benefit other than weight and then not much benefit there...
>>>
>>>Written by someone who has never tried to remove a frozen quill stem.
>>>--
>>>terry morse Palo Alto, CA http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/
>>
>>Using that logic we have lost one telescoping joint with the quill stem. The next logical one to
>>attack is the seat post, freezing due to corrosion is common, lets get rid of it. Just clamp the
>>seat directly to the extended seat tube, if it is too long saw it off, perhaps leave some spacers
>>in case the seat needs lowering. If you need it higher you can flip the clamp or get a new taller
>>one or get a crappy looking extension or a new frame.
>>
>>If one made sense the other should too.
>
>
> A quill stem "clamps" at the bottom, with an expander bold type of mechanism. The seat post, on
> the other hand, clamps at the top of the seat tube. It is the former case that causes the most
> problems, with water and sweat being forced into the steerer by pumping action.
>

A friend of mine collects old bikes and I see a few rough bikes and the stuck seatpost is in my
opinion far more common than the stuck stem. I find stems usually have a mix of rust and
grease/slime holding them tight, whereas seat posts have lost any grease they may have had and are
held in place by rust and aluminum oxide. On most fenderless bikes the spray off the back wheel is
aligned with a slot below the seatpost clamp and with an ungreased seat post water gets in and
moistens the seatpost/tube interface on its way to the bottom bracket. Fluted seatposts can make
this a whole lot worse.

Marcus
 
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