Bicycle chain that can be repaired on the road

[Anthony DeLorenzo]

On Sep 10, 12:12 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Can anybody recommend a chain that
> needs no special links or pins to shorten or repair?

I run SRAM chains on my various bikes, mostly 8-speed (PC-58 or PC-68)
but I also have a PC-1 on my fixed gear. I'm a pedal-mashing
clydesdale who rides mostly singlespeed bikes and I have never had any
problems with these chains. I don't use the powerlinks and I have no
problems putting the chain together or adding/subtracting links. The
only thing you need to watch for are stiff links when you re-join the
chain.

When I ride, I carry a chaintool and a small section of spare links to
repair my chain. The spare links are more important for a 1-speed bike
as you can't really shorten your chain if a link is damaged.

Regards,
Anthony

 

[[email protected]]

On Sep 12, 10:15 pm, Anthony DeLorenzo <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Sep 10, 12:12 am, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Can anybody recommend a chain that
> > needs no special links or pins to shorten or repair?
>
> I run SRAM chains on my various bikes, mostly 8-speed (PC-58 or PC-68)
> but I also have a PC-1 on my fixed gear. I'm a pedal-mashing
> clydesdale who rides mostly singlespeed bikes and I have never had any
> problems with these chains. I don't use the powerlinks and I have no
> problems putting the chain together or adding/subtracting links. The
> only thing you need to watch for are stiff links when you re-join the
> chain.
>
> When I ride, I carry a chaintool and a small section of spare links to
> repair my chain. The spare links are more important for a 1-speed bike
> as you can't really shorten your chain if a link is damaged.
>
> Regards,
> Anthony


Well, thanks to all who replied. I bought a new "special link" and
repaired the broken link--since I'm still travelling in "civilzed
parts" I don't think I'll worry about it for the time being--if the
chain breaks and I can't fix it, I'm sure help won't be far away.

With the new Campy derailleur the shifting is good, although with the
complaint I always have about "hyperglide" style gears and friction
shifting--the shifting is too good. When I Iet up on the pedalling
pressure (which I do now automatically--it's much easier on the
drivetrain) I cannot tell whether the shift has actually occured.

Another issue is that the throw with the Shimano levers is too long--
one reason why you shouldn't mix and match levers and derailleurs.
Better to have it the other way around--Campy levers with Shimano
derailleurs since a short throw usually feels nicer. I should try
shifting the cable attachment to the other side of the bolt, although
this might degrade shifting precision--longer cable pull should mean
greater the precision, shouldn't it?