Bike lights...

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Fahel, Jan 22, 2003.

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  1. Fahel

    Fahel Guest

    What is the best value LED lights for front and rear.

    I have been told Cateye EI300 $85.00 for front and Cateye LD600 $47.00 for the rear.

    Your thoughts please?

    --

    Regards, FaHeL

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  2. "FaHeL" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
    > What is the best value LED lights for front and rear.
    >
    > I have been told Cateye EI300 $85.00 for front and Cateye LD600 $47.00 for the rear.

    Even in $AUS, $47 for a even-LED rear lamp sounds outrageous. In Canada, a Planet Bike 7-LED
    taillight is about $10 CDN ($11.50 AUS.)

    I think I paid $30 CDN at my LBS for a Cateye EL-110 (one super white LED.) One of the things I like
    about it is it has only one mode - solid, not flashing - so you don't have to dick around with the
    switch. I wouldn't want to have to cross a minefield with it, but it makes a good 'see me' lamp.
     
  3. Bike Dude

    Bike Dude Guest

    FaHeL wrote:
    > What is the best value LED lights for front and rear.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > I have been told Cateye EI300 $85.00 for front and Cateye LD600 $47.00 for the rear.
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > Your thoughts please?
    >
    >
    > --
    >
    > Regards, FaHeL
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system
    > (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 17/12/2002
    >
    >
    the so-called white-LED headlamps have one deficiency: there is no red in these lights. The illusion
    of white is a a combination of blue and yellow light. Why does this matter? Because red reflectors
    do not show up in these lights - like the tail-lights of parked cars.

    I use a white-LED front blinky to be seen. I still use a halogen-bulb headlamp to see.

    Note that this could be fixed many ways. One way: add a red LED to the mix of "white" LEDs. On a
    multiple LED headlamp: synthesize "white" from blue, green, amber, orange and red LEDs (oh, look,
    that makes 5...).

    Sorry all, but part of what I do for a a living is design LED lighting systems (not for bikes
    though...). And I have personally observed this deficiency of "white" LEDs on showing up red
    refelectors.

    Bike Dude.
     
  4. Rubin

    Rubin Guest

    EL300 is a fine light if it is bright enough for you. The Cateye Micro II halogen is about the
    brightest for the lest cost. But I would personally want more light.

    "FaHeL" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > What is the best value LED lights for front and rear. I have been told Cateye EI300 $85.00 for
    > front and Cateye LD600 $47.00 for the rear.
     
  5. > almost at once, tho. I do keep an EL100 (first LED model), with the case covered in tape to
    > eliminate light spill, as a backup to my Night Hawk.

    Silvery reflective tape, I hope...

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training
     
  6. In rec.bicycles.misc Bike Dude <[email protected]> wrote:
    : the so-called white-LED headlamps have one deficiency: there is no red in these lights. The
    : illusion of white is a a combination of blue and yellow light. Why does this matter? Because red
    : reflectors do not show up in these lights - like the tail-lights of parked cars.

    this one does,

    http://www.photonlight.com/fusion/

    otoh it costs $82US.
    --
    david reuteler [email protected]
     
  7. LEDs are not much more efficient than halogen for producing white light, so there isn't much reason
    for a front LED light.

    I've made a few 12V 2.0 Ah SLA headlights for $15 and they have worked well.

    http://home.earthlink.net/~rehaston/index.html

    The simplest and most reliable construction is attach the switch (such as a simple in-line appliance
    switch) to the battery. My next model will be the 15 minute, 15 dollar bike light that uses the
    connector as the switch.

    "Rubin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > EL300 is a fine light if it is bright enough for you. The Cateye Micro II halogen is about the
    > brightest for the lest cost. But I would personally want more light.
    >
    >
    > "FaHeL" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > > What is the best value LED lights for front and rear. I have been told Cateye EI300 $85.00 for
    > > front and Cateye LD600 $47.00
    for
    > > the rear.
     
  8. Andy M-S

    Andy M-S Guest

    Well, "covered" is overstating it. The problem was light spill off the top of the LED section, so I
    slid off the cover, cut a business card to fit, and slid it back on. So the sides still radiate, but
    the top doesn't, which improves my aging night vision significantly.

    My main light is a $35 SLA NightHawk 6W light, complete with a smart charger for $35 from
    Performance. A fair bit more light than the 300, and a much better distribution of light. The 100 is
    in my bag for backup...

    "Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:<[email protected]>...
    > > almost at once, tho. I do keep an EL100 (first LED model), with the case covered in tape to
    > > eliminate light spill, as a backup to my Night Hawk.
    >
    > Silvery reflective tape, I hope...
     
  9. Just Zis Guy

    Just Zis Guy Guest

    On Thu, 26 Dec 2002 03:33:25 GMT, "Robert Haston" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >LEDs are not much more efficient than halogen for producing white light, so there isn't much reason
    >for a front LED light.

    Good for a "being seen" light, too dim for a "seeing with" light I would say. I would rather
    use a couple of the bog-standard Cateye halogens as well, or better still a proper light set
    (SON on order :)

    Guy
    ===
    ** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. http://www.chapmancentral.com (BT ADSL and
    dynamic DNS permitting)
    NOTE: BT Openworld have now blocked port 25 (without notice), so old mail addresses may no longer
    work. Apologies.
     
  10. I forgot another good solution. Buy two cheap 2C light sets and use rechargeables. You get
    redundancy, two lights up to 2.8 watts each, independent aiming, all for less than $20 plus
    batteries.

    If you hate removing the batteries, just get a DC power supply and put charging plugs on them.

    "Just zis Guy, you know?" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > On Thu, 26 Dec 2002 03:33:25 GMT, "Robert Haston" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >LEDs are not much more efficient than halogen for producing white light,
    so
    > >there isn't much reason for a front LED light.
    >
    > Good for a "being seen" light, too dim for a "seeing with" light I would say. I would rather use a
    > couple of the bog-standard Cateye halogens as well, or better still a proper light set (SON on
    > order :)
    >
    > Guy
    > ===
    > ** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. http://www.chapmancentral.com (BT ADSL and
    > dynamic DNS permitting)
    > NOTE: BT Openworld have now blocked port 25 (without notice), so old mail addresses may no longer
    > work. Apologies.
     
  11. Just Zis Guy

    Just Zis Guy Guest

    On Fri, 27 Dec 2002 02:27:53 GMT, "Robert Haston" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >I forgot another good solution. Buy two cheap 2C light sets and use rechargeables.

    I guess these things are relative - I am forever forgetting to recharge my lights, so have ordered a
    SON for my recumbent (I have a Nexus hub on the tourer). For town use your two cheap C-cell lights
    is probably all you need.

    Guy
    ===
    ** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. http://www.chapmancentral.com (BT ADSL and
    dynamic DNS permitting)
    NOTE: BT Openworld have now blocked port 25 (without notice), so old mail addresses may no longer
    work. Apologies.
     
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