In article <[email hidden]>, JD <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:Hi everyone
I bought a relatively inexpensive mountain bike a few years ago on an
impulse but I've really grown to like riding so now I spend a lot of
time on the bike. I've been saving my money with the intention of buying
something better. The problem is, I'm worried about buying a more
expensive bike due to my ignorance when it comes to maintenance. By now
I can fix flat tyres and lube the chain but that's pretty much it.
Welcome to the club! You have a few options, and no big problems. What
follows are some suggestions on both your specific and your general
mechanical needs.
Quoted message said:My current bike is still ride-worthy except for a few issues. The drive
train makes a lot of noise and I'm unable to shift onto the 8th sprocket
(I hit the trigger but nothing happens). If I lift the front wheel off
the ground and steer from side to side, it sounds like something is
grinding inside the headset (if that's the right name). My v-brakes
don't work too well and I've had endless frustration trying to get them
'just so' (I looked at Sheldon Brown's article on v-brake adjustment and
balked at all those variables).
The drivetrain noise may just be a chain that needs oil, but mysterious
drivetrain noises beyond that tend to be a matter of tightening and
lubricating the most likely suspects. It usually goes: oil the freewheel
pawls, inspect and repack the rear wheel bearings, check cranks for
tight attachment to the spindle, inspect and repack the crank bearings.
Don't worry about what that means for now.
The headset may just need more grease, but at the point you hear
grinding, you should take apart the headset: you need to check for
contamination of the grease and wear on the bearings and the races.
Basically you take the bearings apart, clean all the grease out of
everything with your favourite solvent, check the bearings and races for
pitting or discolouration, and if it's all okay, reassemble with new
grease.
The shifting onto the 8th sprocket is usually either an adjustment of
the shift cable (there's normally a little adjuster where the cable
enters the rear derailleur body) to line it up with cogs, or the limit
screw on the derailleur needs to be turned out a bit so the rear
derailleur can move far enough to hit the last cog. Assuming the
shifting used to work, it's probably the former.
Quoted message said:I was wondering if anyone had any advice on the best way for me to look
after the new bike (and the old one, which I intend to keep). Is there a
relatively simple checklist I can follow that will keep a new bike in
good condition? Or should I just forget it and take my bike to the local
bike shop and have the guy there service it from time to time (he seems
to have a good reputation round here, although he doesn't come cheap).
If so, how often would this be necessary?
I would strongly encourage you to maintain your own bike, if you have
the willingness and mechanical aptitude. There are elements of bike
maintenance that are fussy, and there are several bike-specific tools
that are worth having even for a beginner mechanic. Park and other tool
companies sell basic kits for $50-200+ that are an easy way to get most
of those special tools all at once.
As a reference for bicycle maintenance, I have been happy with "Zinn and
the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance" by Lennard Zinn (there is a
companion book on road bikes, and there is a fair bit of overlap between
the two manuals). Zinn is pretty good about laying out basic maintenance
up front, and the diagrams and instructions for doing repairs are good.
Others will have other good recommendations.
I think that a good manual, a good starter toolkit and some willingness
to try the repairs (experience with other mechanical stuff will help) is
all you need.
But despite this being rbt, and despite my encouragement (and example:
I'm building a CX bike in my kitchen, then I have to tune up my road
bike, then I'm going to respace an old frame...), plenty of riders go
through life knowing little more than how to change a flat and lube the
chain. Dropping $100-150 a year on a bike tune-up at the LBS (especially
when the mechanic has a good reputation) goes a long way to ensuring you
aren't likely to ever need to know more.
--
Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos