suzyj wrote -
>
> My method has always been to suck and see. First get your saddle
> height right, by simply raising it until your hips start rocking, then
> work on getting the reach and saddle fore-aft position right, as well
> as the handlebar height.
>
An adjustable stem when you are starting out is not a bad idea - adjustable
for height and reach.
What is comfortable for you will change as your flexibility changes
(relevantly, the ability to get low over the bars) - so if you give yoga /
Pilates / other stretching a serious go then what is comfortable for you
will change significantly.
So until you are really sure your as flexible as you can be and unlikely to
change, an adjustable stem and a saddle with rails that permit of a fair
range of movement are an idea.
One theory of road bike fitting that seems to be pretty much discredited is
the Knee Over Peddle Spindle ("kops")
story - see -
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html
If your comfortable as you can be on the bike, if it gives you no pain
anywhere esp on long rides, and if you are getting as much power as you are
capable of to the rear wheel, then you've got it pretty right.
As Suzy says, various theories are preferred by various gurus as to how to
win that trifecta - someone who has set up a very large number of road
riders over a long period will probably by observation get it pretty close
for you.
Only one caution - when your happy with a position - measure it and write it
down (top of seat to maximum pedal extension, front axle to top of bars,
nose of saddle to front of bars). Also when you have got your cleats in a
position you like, use a marker pen to record the position for each cleat on
each show sole for the time when you have to replace the cleats.
best, Andrew
