Bike trainer compatibility

Take the rear wheel out, and get a hollow axle. Take of the cones on your
rear wheel, and rebuild it using the hollow axle. Then stick the skewer
(that will come with the trainer) in..

it MIGHT work with the bolts, but you should be able to get an axle for
really cheap.. a shop can do it for you, and getting that rear hub rebuilt
will definitely be a good thing anyways since it will be doing all the
spinning while on the trainer.

Mike
http://mikebeauchamp.com

"gary" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

i'm looking to buy a bike trainer, probably either a nashbar or minoura
model.

i would prefer not to use my newer bike so that i can work on it over the
winter. instead, i'd like to use an old 10-speed and keep it permanently
mounted on the trainer.

this bike does NOT use the quick-release skewers. instead, it has the old
style bolt going through the hub with a nut (5/8"😉 on each side of the
bolt.

my question is "are these trainers flexible enough that they will
accomodate
the old style bolt/nut instead of a skewer"?

i was over at a friends house and he put an old bike (he normally uses a
wheel
with a skewer) into his trainer and it seemed to fit ok. however, i did
not
try it
so i don't know if the sharp edges of the nut would put any stress on the
inside
cups.

are the "cups" that the skewers go into made out of metal so as to reduce
and stress from the sharp edges of the nut. i suppose i could wrap the
nut
with a little electrical tape if necessary.

however, i'm more concerned that using this type of wheel (NON
quick-release
wheel) is ok over the long term in trainers.

thanks!

From ("gary"😉:

Quoted message said:

my question is "are these trainers flexible enough that they will accomodate
the old style bolt/nut instead of a >skewer"?

My track bike, with nutted rear axle, fell out of a trainer because the trainer
was flexible <g>. The slotted Cyclops retaining cup doesn't do the job without
a skewer or QR cone in it due to the open top of the trainer. I see that some
trainers are supplied with a skewer, and I'm guessing that this is "captive" on
each side (won't come out of the trainer) so that when things are screwed
together, there will be no opening flex. Just a guess.

Quoted message said:

i did not try it so i don't know if the sharp >edges of the nut would put any

stress on >the inside cups.

Maybe your axle has enough extra length that you could get creative with some
washers and/or extra nuts that would fit inside the trainer cups and around
your axle ends, to give enough engagement that a little flexing won't let your
wheel fall out.

After my (skillful, or lucky) step-off incident, I heard stories of injuries
and bent frames (thanks for telling me now); let's just say that a crash is the
last thing you think about on a stationary trainer and you aren't ready for it.
--TP

mike,

thanks for the reply. i looked around on the net and i think i
know what i have to do.

my impression is that all i need to do is replace the solid axle
with a hollow one (same diameter and length) and use a quick
release instead of the nuts. is this correct?

also, i'm assuming by doing the above i keep the original hub.
i've regreased the bearings on the wheels several years ago
so i'm assuming that i do the same type of taking the cone
assembly apart but use the hollow axles when putting it back
together. correct?

one question though. using the QR on the hollow axle, won't this
allow the axle to rotate on the skewer. i realize that the wheel
turning will occur on cone/bearings/hub but won't the axle still
be able to turn on the skewer. or is there something to prevent
this axle/skewer rotation. if this is correct then won't the axle
rotation cause abrasion on the skewer?

BTW, thanks for pointing me in this direction. i guess i never
realized that the solid axle could be rebuilt using a hollow axle
and skewers. even though my old bike will primarily used in
the trainer, i'll probably do the same for the front wheel as i do
take the bike on vacation.

"Mike Beauchamp" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Take the rear wheel out, and get a hollow axle. Take of the cones on your
rear wheel, and rebuild it using the hollow axle. Then stick the skewer
(that will come with the trainer) in..

it MIGHT work with the bolts, but you should be able to get an axle for
really cheap.. a shop can do it for you, and getting that rear hub rebuilt
will definitely be a good thing anyways since it will be doing all the
spinning while on the trainer.

Mike
http://mikebeauchamp.com

"gary" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

i'm looking to buy a bike trainer, probably either a nashbar or minoura
model.

i would prefer not to use my newer bike so that i can work on it over

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

winter. instead, i'd like to use an old 10-speed and keep it

permanently

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

mounted on the trainer.

this bike does NOT use the quick-release skewers. instead, it has the

old

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

style bolt going through the hub with a nut (5/8"😉 on each side of the
bolt.

my question is "are these trainers flexible enough that they will
accomodate
the old style bolt/nut instead of a skewer"?

i was over at a friends house and he put an old bike (he normally uses a
wheel
with a skewer) into his trainer and it seemed to fit ok. however, i did
not
try it
so i don't know if the sharp edges of the nut would put any stress on

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

inside
cups.

are the "cups" that the skewers go into made out of metal so as to

reduce

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and stress from the sharp edges of the nut. i suppose i could wrap the
nut
with a little electrical tape if necessary.

however, i'm more concerned that using this type of wheel (NON
quick-release
wheel) is ok over the long term in trainers.

thanks!

"gary" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

one question though. using the QR on the hollow axle, won't this
allow the axle to rotate on the skewer. i realize that the wheel
turning will occur on cone/bearings/hub but won't the axle still
be able to turn on the skewer. or is there something to prevent
this axle/skewer rotation. if this is correct then won't the axle
rotation cause abrasion on the skewer?

The axle doesn't turn, nor does the skewer. The locknuts are pressed into
the dropouts by the QR, which bears on the other side of the dropout. The
only thing that rotates is the hub and ball bearings.