Originally Posted by jptopdwn .
I have an extra week of vacation to burn up in 2011 and I would like to use it by cycling the Blue Ridge Parkway. Cycling I have done for the past few years has only consisted of mountain biking. I have a Specialized Hardrock Sport that I ride on trails and around town. My question is..........should I get a true road bike or would my mountain bike be sufficient if I just switched tires? I also plan on pulling a BOB Yak. I plan on doing this trip in May. Before that I am going to take a long weekend cycle the Skyline Drive for some more experience.
FWIW. While many people tour on 26" wheels, I agree that a bike with 700c wheels would be better.
However, I don't agree that you need to buy a new bike.
In addition to changing to the appropriate "slicks" for your rims, you would probably want to change the suspension fork to a "rigid" fork (available on eBay for
less than $50) .
Road bars are more efficient because they allow you to change hand positions & you can achieve a more aerodynamic position when necessary (think, headwinds).
Here's an example of how I reconfigured an older (pre-disc mount & pre-replaceable hanger) Hardtail frame that I had:
 
 
The Road fork lowered the head tube and the resultant head tube angle is about 73º -- the current norm for a Road bike.
The pre-2007 (non-QS),
10-speed Campagnolo shifters readily index to both 8-and-9-speed Shimano drivetrains -- for 8-speed indexing, the rear derailleur cable is attached
normally & for 9-speed indexing you would use the
hubbub.com alternate attachment at 3 o'clock:
 
Since I was configuring my Hardtail as a Road bike, I laced a 700c rim to a MTB hub.
The particular Road crank required a 118mm ISIS to allow the crankarms and 52t chainring to clear the stays. I subsequently swapped the pictured crank & BB with a 118mm Octalink BB & a crankset with a 53t chainring.
- Shimano makes a 48t 104BCD chainring in both alloy & steel. When mated with a "standard" 11-32 cassette (8-speed or 9-speed), you should have a wide enough range for most touring conditions.
The distance between the "brake" bridge and the 700c rim's braking surface was just within the parameters of Tektro LONG REACH Road caliper. I enlarged the "underside" of the hole to receive the recessed brake nut.
Those modificiations (
i.e, handlebars + tape, rigid fork, Campagolo shifters & 48t chainring/etc.
sans wheel change), if you DIY, will probably cost between $200 & $300 (depending on how wise a shopper you are).