Bottom Bracket Woes

Rod said:

This is a bit long, apologies but I have no other way to explain it,
and hopefully someone can help me out with this vexing issue.

Finally got a Matt Chester frame (love it), which has a BB issue I
need to address.

The original owner had a Schlumpf crank installed which required
chamfering the BB shell. In doing so, the BB threads were cross
threaded. Although they were chased, the threads are still not
perfect, and the Phil BB I have in there creaks pretty badly because
the thread interface is somewhat loose after the chasing, plus it's a
68mm BB which doesn't use all the threads in the Phil lockring anyway,
and chamfering it takes away another 1.5mm or so of threads in the
BB. I've tried loctite, teflon tape, etc, with no joy.
There was also a Shimano BB in there when I got it with plenty of
thread engagement and teflon tape, that creaked also.

The guy I got the frame from also had a Mavic 616 BB (the one that
uses the 45 degree chamfer and lockrings/external threads on the BB to
secure it) he included. It has a 114mm spindle, which sounded good
since I use a 113mm spindle with Sugino XD (110bcd triple) cranks and
it gives me a perfect chainline (52mm, I believe) with the Phil KISS-
Off double fixed hubs I use.

Problem is that the BB is ISO, and the cranks are JIS, so can't use
that combo.

Sheldon has an article on this topic:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html

According to that, your 114mm ISO spindle would act like a 110.5mm
spindle with a JIS crank. I'm not familiar with your other components
(i.e. the Phil hubs), but maybe you could adjust away a mm or two,
leaving a very good chainline.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

if red does not work then try one of these, remembering surface prep
is important and that one metal surface is to be ferrous but not
ferrous stainless. if neither surface is ferrous then ask locktite for
a compound carrying ferrous material:

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=130&layout=1

Quoted post said:

if red does not work then try one of these, remembering surface prep
is important and that one metal surface is to be ferrous but not
ferrous stainless. if neither surface is ferrous then ask locktite for
a compound carrying ferrous material:

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=130&la...

hyperlink failure! search the above list for "retaining" and click

Quoted post said:

Quoted post said:

if red does not work then try one of these, remembering surface prep
is important and that one metal surface is to be ferrous but not
ferrous stainless. if neither surface is ferrous then ask locktite for
a compound carrying ferrous material:

Quoted message said:

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=130&la...

hyperlink failure! search the above list for "retaining" and click

sorry about this being piecemeal but I'm cooking dinner-
is the spindle tapered? a primary service problem containing the words
"creak creak" occurs at the tapered spindle and crank with the crank
loosening: all creaking noises go to the loose crank first./ grab the
end, pull and push it inboard/outboard. see: 'beer can shim datakoll'
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