brake pads on a road/racing bike



Y

Yuri Budilov

Guest
Hello everyone

I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also do
help).....

My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim brake
pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30 for
the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....

The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
involving better cables?

Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to improve
my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)? Will
the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?

Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
~US$75?

thank you all in advance
Yuri
 
"Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello everyone
>
> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
> and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
> 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also

do
> help).....
>
> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim

brake
> pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30

for
> the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....
>
> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
> involving better cables?
>
> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to

improve
> my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)?

Will
> the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
> more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>
> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
> ~US$75?
>

The *best* upgrade to your brakes is to replace your pads with Kool-Stop
Salmon colored pads. Don't know what it cost where you are, but it shouldn't
be more than $10US/pad. If your cables are bad, you may want to replace
those too.

Contact Kool Stop to find out who has pads nearest you:

http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/
 
"Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> writes:

>Hello everyone


>I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. My local
>bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim brake
>pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e
>AUS$30 for the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....


It is not a good deal, since they cost $5 to make. Not only that,
every year or two, Shimano manages to releases brake pads that just
plain strip aluminum out of the rims. I had a 1998 set of SHimano
pads that did this to my mavic rims. They pulled metal shavings from
the rim and squeeled like crazy.

I would buy Kool stop, since these guys know what they are doing with
respect to brake pads. Kool stop fixed my problems.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:58:31 GMT, "bfd" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Hello everyone
>>
>> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
>> and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
>> 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also

>do
>> help).....
>>
>> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim

>brake
>> pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30

>for
>> the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....
>>
>> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
>> involving better cables?
>>
>> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to

>improve
>> my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)?

>Will
>> the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
>> more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>>
>> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
>> ~US$75?
>>

>The *best* upgrade to your brakes is to replace your pads with Kool-Stop
>Salmon colored pads. Don't know what it cost where you are, but it shouldn't
>be more than $10US/pad. If your cables are bad, you may want to replace
>those too.
>
>Contact Kool Stop to find out who has pads nearest you:
>
>http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/
>


I also really like the Koolstop salmon. I have them on both of my
bikes. I get decent stopping power with a circa 1976 Mafac Racer,
using the salmon pads.

Life is Good!
Jeff
 
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:50:00 GMT, "Yuri Budilov"
<[email protected]> wrote:


>
>The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
>involving better cables?
>


If it's a new bike, cables shouldn't be a problem.

>Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to improve
>my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)? Will
>the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
>more grippy/sticky pads?


Locking up the wheels is a matter of knowing your brakes. Take some
time getting to know the new pads and you'll figure it out soon
enough.

>Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>


Like others have said...

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#continental

The difference over stock brake pads can be amazing.

>Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
>~US$75?


Save your money! If the Koolstop pads don't do it, post again with
more details about the brake types, etc.
 
A big thank you to all who have replied!
cheers!

"Dan Daniel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:50:00 GMT, "Yuri Budilov"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive

like
> >involving better cables?
> >

>
> If it's a new bike, cables shouldn't be a problem.
>
> >Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to

improve
> >my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)?

Will
> >the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
> >more grippy/sticky pads?

>
> Locking up the wheels is a matter of knowing your brakes. Take some
> time getting to know the new pads and you'll figure it out soon
> enough.
>
> >Are there better pads that you can recommend?
> >

>
> Like others have said...
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html
> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#continental
>
> The difference over stock brake pads can be amazing.
>
> >Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to

below
> >~US$75?

>
> Save your money! If the Koolstop pads don't do it, post again with
> more details about the brake types, etc.
 
> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
> and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
> 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also

do
> help).....


No they don't.

> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim

brake
> pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30

for
> the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....


Nope. Shimano pads are very abrasive on the rims, pulling metal off the
rim, embedding in the pad, and wearing the rim away to nothing. Koolstop
pads are the way to go.

> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
> involving better cables?


This is also an excellent step to better braking performance.

> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to

improve
> my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)?

Will

Not significantly... Koolstops should be special-ordered.

> the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
> more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?


No - you will appreciate the power and will adapt to it.

> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
> ~US$75?


Koolstop brake pads!

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
"bfd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]

[...]

> The *best* upgrade to your brakes is to replace your pads with
> Kool-Stop Salmon colored pads. Don't know what it cost where you are,
> but it shouldn't be more than $10US/pad. If your cables are bad, you
> may want to replace those too.
>
> Contact Kool Stop to find out who has pads nearest you:
>
> http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/


There's some strangeness going on with regards to Koolstop salmon coloured
brake pads and the Australian distributor, said distributor no longer
carries them. I'd love to know why, but in the meantime it means shipping
them in from the States.

--

A: Top-posters.
Q: What is the most annoying thing on Usenet?
 
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:50:00 GMT, "Yuri Budilov"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hello everyone
>
>I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
>and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
>4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also do
>help).....
>
>My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim brake
>pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30 for
>the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....


Perhaps the D/A pads are better than some of Shimano's other ones, but
I have not had what I can characterize as satisfactory results with
many of theirs.

>The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
>involving better cables?


Well, maybe. On a Trek that's less than a year old, I would not
expect the cables to be bad enough to impact brake effectiveness.

>Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to improve
>my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)? Will
>the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
>more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>
>Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
>~US$75?


My opinion: If the current pads are not capable of skidding the
*rear* wheel, they certainly aren't good enough. (I would not advise
trying to skid the front, but it sounds as though your current pads
don't have enough grip to come close to doing that anyway.)

Kool-stop salmon pads would be my recommendation. Even if you have to
order them from a supplier in the States, they won't set you back a
great deal. The one set I have is as good as any pad I've ever used.


--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
DRS

yes, you got it exactly. I rang them (they are in Melbourne) yesterday and
they only tend to import the MTB components. Beats me why....

If you ever figure out how to get them Kool-Stop Salmon road pads "down
under" please share!

In the meantime I had to buy Dura-Ace pads for my front brakes, as Kool Stop
Salmon road-pads are not available locally. Sad.

But I am happy to report that the new Dura-Ace front pads did make a
noticeable positive difference. Not a dramatic difference but definitely
well worth AUS$15 outlay. I wish I knew this 7 months ago when I bought my
new (very first) road bike! Live and learn..... 8^)

thank you all for your support
Yuri

"DRS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "bfd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
> [...]
>
> > The *best* upgrade to your brakes is to replace your pads with
> > Kool-Stop Salmon colored pads. Don't know what it cost where you are,
> > but it shouldn't be more than $10US/pad. If your cables are bad, you
> > may want to replace those too.
> >
> > Contact Kool Stop to find out who has pads nearest you:
> >
> > http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/

>
> There's some strangeness going on with regards to Koolstop salmon coloured
> brake pads and the Australian distributor, said distributor no longer
> carries them. I'd love to know why, but in the meantime it means shipping
> them in from the States.
>
> --
>
> A: Top-posters.
> Q: What is the most annoying thing on Usenet?
>
>
 
Yuri Budilov wrote:

> yes, you got it exactly. I rang them (they are in Melbourne) yesterday and
> they only tend to import the MTB components. Beats me why....
>
> If you ever figure out how to get them Kool-Stop Salmon road pads "down
> under" please share!
>
> In the meantime I had to buy Dura-Ace pads for my front brakes, as Kool Stop
> Salmon road-pads are not available locally. Sad.


Actually, the very best Kool Stop pads, the BMX/Mountain pads, fit road
calipers just fine. They have super hardware, and curve to match the
rim shape. In addition to the superior salmon composition, they have an
unusually large contact area.

If you can't find them locally in Oz, they're not expensive to ship.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes

Sheldon "I Use "Em" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Happy Moon Landing Day to all! None of us should |
| be working today--we should all be celebrating the |
| most important event of the last millennium! |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
thanks!

can you please tell me what model/part number of Kool-Stop Salmon pads I
actually need to look for to fit my Trek 1000 road bike (2004)? Even if I
find them "down under" I am still at a loss as to exactly what to order.....
Do I need to order just the sole/shoe or the whole cartridge/housing (sorry,
I am new at this so I am not using the right terminology, I am sure).

Will these Kool-Stop pads fit any current model (2003+) road/racing bike
i.e. if I had Trek 1500 or Giant OCR-1 etc or are these pads specific to
each type of brake system used (such as Shimano 105 or Ultegra or Campagnolo
Record, etc)?

thank you in advance once again!

"Sheldon Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yuri Budilov wrote:
>
> > yes, you got it exactly. I rang them (they are in Melbourne) yesterday

and
> > they only tend to import the MTB components. Beats me why....
> >
> > If you ever figure out how to get them Kool-Stop Salmon road pads "down
> > under" please share!
> >
> > In the meantime I had to buy Dura-Ace pads for my front brakes, as Kool

Stop
> > Salmon road-pads are not available locally. Sad.

>
> Actually, the very best Kool Stop pads, the BMX/Mountain pads, fit road
> calipers just fine. They have super hardware, and curve to match the
> rim shape. In addition to the superior salmon composition, they have an
> unusually large contact area.
>
> If you can't find them locally in Oz, they're not expensive to ship.
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes
>
> Sheldon "I Use "Em" Brown
> +--------------------------------------------------------+
> | Happy Moon Landing Day to all! None of us should |
> | be working today--we should all be celebrating the |
> | most important event of the last millennium! |
> +--------------------------------------------------------+
> Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
> Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
> http://harriscyclery.com
> Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
> http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
>
 
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 20:55:25 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My opinion: If the current pads are not capable of skidding the
>*rear* wheel, they certainly aren't good enough.


A less destructive test may be seeing if they can lift the rear by
braking at the front...
--
Rick Onanian
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hello everyone
>
> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They feel weak
> and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's cheaper MTB Trek
> 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike (ok, wider tyres also do
> help).....
>
> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap" rim brake
> pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per wheel i.e AUS$30 for
> the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....
>
> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more expensive like
> involving better cables?
>
> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to improve
> my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)? Will
> the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
> more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>
> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to below
> ~US$75?
>
> thank you all in advance
> Yuri



Hi Yuri,

Another consideration to improving your braking, is to use a bit of
sandpaper, Emory cloth to be specific, to roughen up the surface of the
brake pad that contacts the rim.

Over time, the rubber can age [oxidize?] and become hard, and hence less
effective when braking. More likely though, is that with continual
braking, the pads' surface becomes hardened and polished. Sanding away
that hardened, almost polished surface has helped improve my braking
numerous times. Considering your bike isn't very old, I doubt the
rubber pads have truly oxidized - they're not old enough

However, and like the others have mentioned, it could likely be the
rubber compound used in the making of the pads.

Another thing to check for is proper tension on the brake cable. This
is done by adjusting it at the anchor bolt that's at the brake caliper.
A quick fix is to simply use the barrel adjuster to increase the tension
on the brake cable. If this improves your braking, but not enough, try
resetting the cables' tension by resetting the cables' position relative
to the anchor bolt.

Everyone's different, but I like my brakes pretty tight, so that the
pads contact the rim before half way through the process of the brake
lever being squeezed.

If increasing the tension on the brake cable doesn't improve, try
repositioning the brake lever on the handlebar.

On conventional drop handlebars, and when not being depressed, the lower
most tip of brake lever should just come in contact with any straight
edge, such as a ruler, placed along the bottom side of the flat portion
of the handlebars' drop portion.

So as you can see, there's more than one way to solve poor braking.

Like spokes in a wheel that need to be stressed relieved after truing,
cables can stretch when new. My guess is that you need to reset the
tension on the brake cable, because it's stretched.

I'd be surprised if the bike shop you bought your bike from didn't ask
you to bring it back after a week or two, o solve this very issue, and
reset the tension on the brake cables.

Hope this helps

Bill
 
Yuri Budilov wrote:

>> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They
>> feel weak and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's
>> cheaper MTB Trek 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike
>> (ok, wider tyres also do help).....
>>
>> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap"
>> rim brake pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per
>> wheel i.e AUS$30 for the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....
>>
>> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more
>> expensive like involving better cables?
>>
>> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to
>> improve my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping
>> distance)? Will the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a
>> result of these new more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads
>> that you can recommend?
>>
>> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to
>> below ~US$75?


The Big Pedalnut replied:

> Another consideration to improving your braking, is to use a bit of
> sandpaper, Emory cloth to be specific, to roughen up the surface of
> the brake pad that contacts the rim.
>
> Over time, the rubber can age [oxidize?] and become hard, and hence
> less effective when braking. More likely though, is that with
> continual braking, the pads' surface becomes hardened and polished.
> Sanding away that hardened, almost polished surface has helped
> improve my braking numerous times. Considering your bike isn't very
> old, I doubt the rubber pads have truly oxidized - they're not old
> enough
>
> However, and like the others have mentioned, it could likely be the
> rubber compound used in the making of the pads.
>
> Another thing to check for is proper tension on the brake cable. This
> is done by adjusting it at the anchor bolt that's at the brake
> caliper. A quick fix is to simply use the barrel adjuster to increase
> the tension on the brake cable. If this improves your braking, but
> not enough, try resetting the cables' tension by resetting the
> cables' position relative to the anchor bolt. [snip]


Kool-stop makes some great replacement pads. Should be as cheap as, or
cheaper than, the Dura-Ace pads.

You should clean your rims (the braking surface) with isopropyl alcohol,
whether you change pads or not.
 
"Neil Brooks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yuri Budilov wrote:
>
>>> I (kind of) hate the brakes on my 2004 Trek 1000 road bike. They
>>> feel weak and give me no confidence and do not stop well. My wife's
>>> cheaper MTB Trek 4400 bike has much better brakes than my road bike
>>> (ok, wider tyres also do help).....
>>>
>>> My local bike shop suggested to try to upgrade my current "cheap"
>>> rim brake pads to a Dura-ace(?) brake pads. They cost ~AUS$15 per
>>> wheel i.e AUS$30 for the bike i.e. seems like a good deal to me.....
>>>
>>> The other solutions may be also possible but also much more
>>> expensive like involving better cables?
>>>
>>> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to
>>> improve my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping
>>> distance)? Will the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a
>>> result of these new more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads
>>> that you can recommend?
>>>
>>> Any other "brake" ideas but trying to keep the upgrade costs down to
>>> below ~US$75?

>
> The Big Pedalnut replied:
>
>> Another consideration to improving your braking, is to use a bit of
>> sandpaper, Emory cloth to be specific, to roughen up the surface of
>> the brake pad that contacts the rim.
>>
>> Over time, the rubber can age [oxidize?] and become hard, and hence
>> less effective when braking. More likely though, is that with
>> continual braking, the pads' surface becomes hardened and polished.
>> Sanding away that hardened, almost polished surface has helped
>> improve my braking numerous times. Considering your bike isn't very
>> old, I doubt the rubber pads have truly oxidized - they're not old
>> enough
>>
>> However, and like the others have mentioned, it could likely be the
>> rubber compound used in the making of the pads.
>>
>> Another thing to check for is proper tension on the brake cable. This
>> is done by adjusting it at the anchor bolt that's at the brake
>> caliper. A quick fix is to simply use the barrel adjuster to increase
>> the tension on the brake cable. If this improves your braking, but
>> not enough, try resetting the cables' tension by resetting the
>> cables' position relative to the anchor bolt. [snip]

>
> Kool-stop makes some great replacement pads. Should be as cheap as, or
> cheaper than, the Dura-Ace pads.
>
> You should clean your rims (the braking surface) with isopropyl alcohol,
> whether you change pads or not.
>
>


thank you both.

I tried to find KoolStop Salmon for road bikes in Melbourne, Australia but
failed. Some shops carry limited MTB range only. Nothing for road bikes. So
I installed DuraAce pads which improved things noticeably but not
dramatically so. It is Sora after all.... I hope that brakes on Shimano 105
or Ultegra 2005 are much better because my next bike in 2005 will have this
group or a Campagnolo equivalent (Veloce? Centaur? etc).
 

> "Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Do you think getting these upgraded Dura-ace brake pads will help to
>> improve
>> my brake's performance significantly (i.e. shorten stopping distance)?
>> Will
>> the result be more likely to lock-up the wheels as a result of these new
>> more grippy/sticky pads? Are there better pads that you can recommend?
>>

Bills suggestions will probably help you, but in answer to the question
above: Yes DuraAce pads impove braking. The German "Tour" magazine recently
made a test of different brakes incluing the Shimano105 and the Dura Ace,
and the test concluded, that The Dure Ace was the best of all, but only due
to better brake pads. So the cheap way to get better brakes, was to buy the
Dura Ace brake pads and put them on the brake you have, tha magazine
concluded.
Ivar
 
"Ivar Hesselager" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
>> "Yuri Budilov" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>

> Bills suggestions will probably help you, but in answer to the
> question above: Yes DuraAce pads impove braking. The German "Tour"
> magazine recently made a test of different brakes incluing the
> Shimano105 and the Dura Ace, and the test concluded, that The Dure Ace
> was the best of all, but only due to better brake pads. So the cheap
> way to get better brakes, was to buy the Dura Ace brake pads and put
> them on the brake you have, tha magazine concluded.
> Ivar
>
>
>
>


I have a 2005 Allez Elite with 105 brakes and the pads are terrible.
They sound almost metallic and sheds rubber residue on my water bottle.
I've had the bike 2 weeks and already looking to buy new pads.

Dan