brakes on non machined rims

[zimbabwe legit]

i'm not sure if this has been posted but a quick look around and i didn;t find anything.

i got a pretty good price on some non machined track wheels for my ss, i'm only running a front brake but wanted to know if this will cause any problems? (apart from cosmetics).would a better brake and pad setup be of more value? (eg dura ace etc etc)

any help would be sweet.

cheers

 

[Peter@vecchios]

i'm not sure if this has been posted but a quick look around and i didn;t find anything.

i got a pretty good price on some non machined track wheels for my ss, i'm only running a front brake but wanted to know if this will cause any problems? (apart from cosmetics).would a better brake and pad setup be of more value? (eg dura ace etc etc)

any help would be sweet.

cheers

A long timer ago in a galaxy far, far away......no rims had 'machined sidewalls'. Unless the rim is disc specific(which do have thinner sidewalls), just use it, like some of still do today(Campagnolo tubie rims. no machined sidewall).

 

[alfeng]

I don't know what front caliper you are currently using, but unless they are really sub-standard, then you can ensure that you have better-than-average braking (with "average" being more than adequate in most cases) by getting a set of DURA ACE 7800 (or, Ultegra 6600) pads + brake shoes (to hold the pads) ...

PLUS, using a real brake lever instead of a so-called CX (intermediate) lever OR a BMX lever (a terrible choice which some people use) will be a real benefit if you actually want to use the front caliper to stop the bike.

If you're setting up a SS and not a Fixie, then you probably want a rear brake, too.

 

[Wheel Right]

Non-machined sidewalls can provide excellent braking performance with a little prep. They are fine without this prep, but may squeal like a lost soul in hell.

1. Get some coarse grit sandpaper that is designed for use on metal surfaces.
2. Sand the sidewalls inline with the rim. In other words, sand around the rim parallel to the sidewall, rather than up and down and perpendicular to the sidewall. You are trying to create a rough surface and make long scratches in the sidewall.
3. At the rim joint, try to make sure that there is no "lip" on either side of the join. Using the coarse metal sand paper, work the transition (after the wheel is already built and stress relieved) from one side of the join to the other knocking down any "high spots" at the join that may lead to unnecessary wear at the brake pad, or a "skipping" at the join.

Put them on your bike and ride them until they wear out . . . replace . . . repeat.