Broken/seized Hollowtech II bottom bracket

[haggismn]

Hi everyone
I have a bit of a problem with my Fuji carbon frame. I was riding last week when suddenly there was lots of squeaking from the cranks. I thought it might be the pedals, but soon squeaking turned into a crunch, and spinning became harder and harder, to the point where it was impossible.

When I got back home I took off the left crank. The contents of the left cup fell straight out, along with some broken metallic pieces. The black cap which covers the bearings had completely gone! Where the left crank comes in contact with the bottom bracket is also slightly ground down, although it is fine thankfully. This is where my problems arise. I cannot remove the rest of the chain-set. Some of the broken metallic pieces have made their way inward; they seem to be preventing any movement of the right side, in term of removal. However, the right crank can spin with only a slight bit of friction.

My 2nd problem; The left bottom bracket cup is extremely tight. It hasn't been removed since it was installed in 2006. I am nervous of breaking the frame by trying too hard. Is there anything I can do to help allow removal? Will applying WD40 inside the frame (where the wires are held underneath) help?

I thought this would be a simple bottom bracket removal and replacement but things are not working out! Does anyone have experience with these Hollowtech II bottom brackets? I had foolishly thought that their simplistic nature meant that they didnt need much attention, just a bit of a clean when the cranks were removed every so often. By the way, this is a Dura Ace 7800 English threaded version.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[jpr95]

Are you turning it the correct direction? One side is removed by turning it clockwise, the other is removed by turning it counter-clockwise.

 

[haggismn]

Hi
Well, I've double checked just to be safe. Its the left side cup I am trying to remove, so I am turning anti clockwise (the bottom bracket has the "Tighten" with arrow pointing the other way). It wont budge. LBS job you think? I'm not sure if they'd even be willing to help if there is a risk of damaging the bike.

 

[davereo]

I would use a dead blow hammer and lightly tap the spindle. Normally the crank would just slide out but apparently one of the bearings has siezed on your crank spindle.

If that dosnt work than a quick trip to your LBS shouldnt be out of the question.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by haggismn .

Well, I've double checked just to be safe. Its the left side cup I am trying to remove, so I am turning anti clockwise (the bottom bracket has the "Tighten" with arrow pointing the other way). It wont budge. LBS job you think? I'm not sure if they'd even be willing to help if there is a risk of damaging the bike.

FWIW. While I have found ([COLOR= #808080]out of necessity due to someone "borrowing" my Shimano Hollowtech II BB installation wrench[/COLOR]) that it is possible to install-and-remove Hollowtech II & MegaExo BB cups without the tool because the outer diameter of the cup is large enough to provide sufficient grip, it is more easily done with the "proper" tool ([COLOR= #808080]either Shimano's or Park's[/COLOR]).

Presuming that you are still having a problem, if you need to remove a Hollowtech II BB cup ([COLOR= #0000ff]yes, counter-clockwise is the correct direction to unscrew the non-driveside BB cup[/COLOR]) & you are willing to sacrifice the cosmetics of the cup, then you can use a standard-size (about 14") pipe wrench ...

Apply whatever you deem to be about 20 lbs. of force ...

If the cup doesn't release, then squirt a shot of LIQUID WRENCH, or equivalent, into the BB shell & wait a day-or-two ... then, try again.

BTW. The cartridge bearings CAN be tapped out & new bearings pressed into place, so [COLOR= #ff0000]cosmetically marring the outside of the cups should probably be the LAST option![/COLOR]

 

[tafi]

Use a hammer to tap out the RH crank and spindle.

Regarding teh tight left hand cup, there are two problems here:

1) You can't get enough leverage with the standard tool.
2) The standard shimano tool is too thin so that the pressure will mar the surface of the cup.

LBS should be equipped with a socket designed for the BB cup (which will help distribute force along the length of the notches). They will also have long tube lengths to add to the wrench to increase the leverage for tight cups. In the case of very tight BBs I have been known to put the socket in a bench vice and then lay the bike frame on top with the BB cup in the socket (remove the wheels first). The frame then forms a very efficient lever. I have never found a BB cup I couldn't undo by this method. It is all of a 1 or 2 minute job at a LBS and they might even do it for free (I would).

When you reinstall the cups make sure there is grease or anti-seize in the threads.

 

[HillClimber364]

Hi there! When it comes to removing the RH crank and spindle, using a hammer to tap it out can definitely do the trick. As for the left hand cup, you're right about the two problems. The standard tool may not provide enough leverage, and the Shimano tool may mar the cup's surface. In cases like these, it's best to visit a good bike shop (LBS) equipped with the right socket for the BB cup and longer tube lengths for increased leverage. These tools help distribute force and handle tight cups effectively. Keep climbing those hills!

 

[TrackKingTim]

I'm sorry to hear about your Fuji carbon frame issue. It sounds like you're dealing with a damaged bottom bracket. The black cap you mentioned is likely the bearing seal, which has failed, causing the bearings to be exposed and damaged. This could be due to wear and tear, insufficient lubrication, or even a manufacturing defect.

To diagnose the problem accurately, I would recommend taking the bike to a professional mechanic who can inspect the bottom bracket and determine the extent of the damage. They can also recommend the best course of action, whether it's replacing the bearings, the bottom bracket, or the entire frame, depending on the severity of the issue.

In the meantime, avoid riding the bike until the issue is resolved, as continuing to use it could cause further damage and create a safety hazard. I hope this helps, and I wish you the best of luck in getting your bike back in working order!

 

[HillClimber364]

It's worth considering that the damaged bottom bracket on your Fuji carbon frame might be a result of a common issue known as "carbon bearings creep." This happens when the bearings move around in the frame due to insufficient clamping force or frame alignment problems, causing damage to the bearings and the frame itself.

A professional mechanic should be able to diagnose this issue and suggest appropriate solutions. They might recommend using a different bottom bracket standard that provides better clamping force or realigning the frame to prevent further movement of the bearings.

Additionally, it's important to note that Fuji has had some recalls in the past related to their carbon frames. It might be worth checking if your frame is part of one of those recalls. If it is, Fuji might be responsible for covering the repair or replacement costs.

Lastly, if you're looking for a temporary solution while you wait to get your bike fixed, you might consider using a bottom bracket with built-in bearings, which can provide better support and protection for the frame. However, this should not be considered a long-term solution, and it's still crucial to get the bike inspected and repaired by a professional mechanic as soon as possible.

 

[TrackKingTim]

It's worth considering the possibility of "carbon bearings creep" causing the damaged bottom bracket on your Fuji carbon frame. This issue can occur when there is insufficient clamping force or frame alignment problems, allowing the bearings to move around and damage both the bearings and the frame.

To address this, it would be best to consult a professional mechanic who can diagnose the issue accurately and recommend appropriate solutions. They might suggest using a different bottom bracket standard that provides better clamping force or realigning the frame to prevent further movement of the bearings.

In addition, it's important to be aware that Fuji has had past recalls related to their carbon frames. It would be worth checking if your frame is covered under any of those recalls. If it is, Fuji might be responsible for covering the repair or replacement costs.

As a temporary solution while waiting for the bike to be fixed, you could consider using a bottom bracket with built-in bearings. This can offer better support and protection for the frame. However, it's crucial to remember that this should not be seen as a long-term fix, and it's still essential to have the bike inspected and repaired by a professional mechanic as soon as possible.

By addressing these points, you can ensure your bike is in good hands and make informed decisions about the necessary repairs. Keep in mind the importance of quality maintenance to maximize your cycling experience!

 

[HillClimber364]

Ah, carbon bearings creep - the cyclist's nemesis . While a pro mechanic can help, it's worth noting that even they might struggle to fully eliminate this issue. Carbon frames, while light and snazzy, can be finicky beasts. And let's not forget Fuji's recall history *cough* .

As a temp fix, a bottom bracket with built-in bearings could offer some respite. But remember, it's like putting a band-aid on a broken leg - it won't solve the root problem. Regular maintenance and inspections are your best bet to keep your ride purring like a well-fed kitten .