Broken/seized Hollowtech II bottom bracket

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by haggismn, Sep 27, 2011.

  1. haggismn

    haggismn New Member

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    Hi everyone
    I have a bit of a problem with my Fuji carbon frame. I was riding last week when suddenly there was lots of squeaking from the cranks. I thought it might be the pedals, but soon squeaking turned into a crunch, and spinning became harder and harder, to the point where it was impossible.

    When I got back home I took off the left crank. The contents of the left cup fell straight out, along with some broken metallic pieces. The black cap which covers the bearings had completely gone! Where the left crank comes in contact with the bottom bracket is also slightly ground down, although it is fine thankfully. This is where my problems arise. I cannot remove the rest of the chain-set. Some of the broken metallic pieces have made their way inward; they seem to be preventing any movement of the right side, in term of removal. However, the right crank can spin with only a slight bit of friction.

    My 2nd problem; The left bottom bracket cup is extremely tight. It hasn't been removed since it was installed in 2006. I am nervous of breaking the frame by trying too hard. Is there anything I can do to help allow removal? Will applying WD40 inside the frame (where the wires are held underneath) help?

    I thought this would be a simple bottom bracket removal and replacement but things are not working out! Does anyone have experience with these Hollowtech II bottom brackets? I had foolishly thought that their simplistic nature meant that they didnt need much attention, just a bit of a clean when the cranks were removed every so often. By the way, this is a Dura Ace 7800 English threaded version.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
     
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  2. jpr95

    jpr95 Active Member

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    Are you turning it the correct direction? One side is removed by turning it clockwise, the other is removed by turning it counter-clockwise.
     
  3. haggismn

    haggismn New Member

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    Hi
    Well, I've double checked just to be safe. Its the left side cup I am trying to remove, so I am turning anti clockwise (the bottom bracket has the "Tighten" with arrow pointing the other way). It wont budge. LBS job you think? I'm not sure if they'd even be willing to help if there is a risk of damaging the bike.
     
  4. davereo

    davereo Well-Known Member

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    I would use a dead blow hammer and lightly tap the spindle. Normally the crank would just slide out but apparently one of the bearings has siezed on your crank spindle.

    If that dosnt work than a quick trip to your LBS shouldnt be out of the question.
     
  5. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FWIW. While I have found (out of necessity due to someone "borrowing" my Shimano Hollowtech II BB installation wrench) that it is possible to install-and-remove Hollowtech II & MegaExo BB cups without the tool because the outer diameter of the cup is large enough to provide sufficient grip, it is more easily done with the "proper" tool (either Shimano's or Park's).

    Presuming that you are still having a problem, if you need to remove a Hollowtech II BB cup (yes, counter-clockwise is the correct direction to unscrew the non-driveside BB cup) & you are willing to sacrifice the cosmetics of the cup, then you can use a standard-size (about 14") pipe wrench ...

    Apply whatever you deem to be about 20 lbs. of force ...

    If the cup doesn't release, then squirt a shot of LIQUID WRENCH, or equivalent, into the BB shell & wait a day-or-two ... then, try again.

    BTW. The cartridge bearings CAN be tapped out & new bearings pressed into place, so cosmetically marring the outside of the cups should probably be the LAST option!
     
  6. tafi

    tafi Member

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    Use a hammer to tap out the RH crank and spindle.

    Regarding teh tight left hand cup, there are two problems here:

    1) You can't get enough leverage with the standard tool.
    2) The standard shimano tool is too thin so that the pressure will mar the surface of the cup.

    LBS should be equipped with a socket designed for the BB cup (which will help distribute force along the length of the notches). They will also have long tube lengths to add to the wrench to increase the leverage for tight cups. In the case of very tight BBs I have been known to put the socket in a bench vice and then lay the bike frame on top with the BB cup in the socket (remove the wheels first). The frame then forms a very efficient lever. I have never found a BB cup I couldn't undo by this method. It is all of a 1 or 2 minute job at a LBS and they might even do it for free (I would).

    When you reinstall the cups make sure there is grease or anti-seize in the threads.
     
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