Building a recumbent



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Colin Blackburn

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Well, I took the plunge and ordered one of those Dutch recumbent kits. The money has been
transferred and the package is being despatched. So, which bike to butcher. As I am trying to buy
as little extra stuff as possible I am considering butchering one of my existing bikes---though I
may yet buy something second hand. My question, before I get a hacksaw out on any bike, is whether
to make the rear wheel 26" or 700c. The front wheel will be 20", does it matter that much what goes
on the back?

Colin
 
Colin Blackburn wrote:

> Well, I took the plunge and ordered one of those Dutch recumbent kits. The money has been
> transferred and the package is being despatched. So, which bike to butcher. As I am trying to buy
> as little extra stuff as possible I am considering butchering one of my existing bikes---though I
> may yet buy something second hand. My question, before I get a hacksaw out on any bike, is whether
> to make the rear wheel 26" or 700c. The front wheel will be 20", does it matter that much what
> goes on the back?

ISTR there were some size constraints mentioned in the online manual for the rear triangle from the
donor bike. My personal preference would be for a 26" rear triangle from a mountain bike with
canti/V bosses on it, if it meets the constraints. The most significant reason would be strength, as
I've noticed more weight on the rear wheel when riding my (homebuilt) recumbent compared to a
regular bike.

--
Jim Price

http://www.jimprice.dsl.pipex.com

Conscientious objection is hard work in an economic war.

Aye!.
 
Colin Blackburn wrote:

> My question, before I get a hacksaw out on any bike, is whether to make the rear wheel 26" or
> 700c. The front wheel will be 20", does it matter that much what goes on the back?

Ultimately, not really, I'd think. The original Streetmachine had a 700c rear, as did the Orbit
Crystal and much else besides, so there's plenty of evidence to say it'll work okay. I'd be inclined
to go for whichever makes most sense from your existing stock of tubes and tyres if all else is
equal, though availability of halfway decent hack bike to hack to bits would be the most obvious
criterion to work from IMHO.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net [email protected]
http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
Dave Larrington wrote:

> Andy Dingley wrote:
>
>
>>I'm an incipient Fat *******. The only time I allow myself a "few beers" is if I've cycled a few
>>miles to get there.
>
>
> Absolutely. BHPC definitions:
>
> Training = riding to the pub Advanced training: riding to a pub slightly further away than usual

Presumably, then: Interval training = a pub crawl by bike Training down = riding back from the pub
Winter training = riding the hack bike to the pub. Cross training = riding to the pub and walking
back the next day to get the bike.

What does the H stand for if B=Bicycle and PC=Pub Crawlers? :)

--
Jim Price

http://www.jimprice.dsl.pipex.com

Conscientious objection is hard work in an economic war.

Aye!.
 
Hello Colin,

Please keep me (or the group) posted on the progress of this little project. I have been looking at
this myself but lack the courage and finances to jump in yet! BTW I can't see a significant
difference between the two wheel sizes. I used to own an Ross Crystal with a 700c and now own a
Trice with a 26" wheel. The only real thing to consider is that there seems to be many more types of
26" tyres available.

SW

Regards SW

"Colin Blackburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:MPG.19788d5aa165b35989ae5@localhost...
> Well, I took the plunge and ordered one of those Dutch recumbent kits. The money has been
> transferred and the package is being despatched. So, which bike to butcher. As I am trying to buy
> as little extra stuff as possible I am considering butchering one of my existing bikes---though I
> may yet buy something second hand. My question, before I get a hacksaw out on any bike, is whether
> to make the rear wheel 26" or 700c. The front wheel will be 20", does it matter that much what
> goes on the back?
>
> Colin
 
>> Well, I took the plunge and ordered one of those Dutch recumbent kits. The money has been
>> transferred and the package is being despatched. So, which bike to butcher.

The one I saw had a Raleigh rear end, and Raleighs do seem to be virtually indestructible; a friend
has one that's been in the family for 15-20 years and another just bought one of like vintage; both
are still in tip top condition.

Mark van Gorkom.

P.S.: someone asked about the url: http://www.dutchbikes.nl/uk.htm
 
In article <[email protected]>, Steve.Watkin1 @btinternet.com says...
> Please keep me (or the group) posted on the progress of this little project. I have been looking
> at this myself but lack the courage and finances to jump in yet!

I will do. Phase one has successfully taken place. They have the money and now I have a large box
sitting in my office with Dutch Speed bicycles written on the side.

> BTW I can't see a significant difference between the two wheel sizes. I used to own an Ross
> Crystal with a 700c and now own a Trice with a 26" wheel. The only real thing to consider is that
> there seems to be many more types of 26" tyres available.

From other comments both frames support (have) V-brakes. I think I'll measure up once I have
downloaded the manual and then decide my options. I may yet try to find a cheap bike or just a frame
and temporarily move bits of mech between bikes.

Colin
 
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