Building a Touring Machine

[vanceNguyen]

I've read a few articles about converting a mtb to a touring cycle and I want to get more input into this.

Currently, I have a fairly good mtb steel frame with a rigid fork and a rear rack. All other componentry on the bike are stock Shimano Alivino.

I understand that having a mtb frame delivers robustness/durability to a touring bike. Then to add dropped handlebars would help too. Any recommendations for the drivetrain (derailleurs, crank, chainwheel, etc.)?

My friend and I agree that touring bicycles tend to have dropped handlebars but isn't it contradictory to the fact that sitting upright with flat handle bars is better for long rides where as leaning forward with dropped handlebars is bad for longer rides?

 

[HUFFYS RULE]

so you want a touring bike with 26" wheels? i know the front can be converted to 700c with a new fork, but what about the rear? and what about the frame geometry?

 

[boudreaux]

so you want a touring bike with 26" wheels?

No problem with that dude.

 

[daveornee]

I've read a few articles about converting a mtb to a touring cycle and I want to get more input into this.

Currently, I have a fairly good mtb steel frame with a rigid fork and a rear rack. All other componentry on the bike are stock Shimano Alivino.

I understand that having a mtb frame delivers robustness/durability to a touring bike. Then to add dropped handlebars would help too. Any recommendations for the drivetrain (derailleurs, crank, chainwheel, etc.)?

My friend and I agree that touring bicycles tend to have dropped handlebars but isn't it contradictory to the fact that sitting upright with flat handle bars is better for long rides where as leaning forward with dropped handlebars is bad for longer rides?

If you can attach a sturdy rack securely to the front and you have long enough chain stays to keep your heels from hitting your panniers, you are on your way.
Most mountain bicycles have the advantage of having adequate clearance for big tires and low enough gearing range. Brakes are usually good in respect to clearance as well. If you can fit KoolStop Salmon pads, they work the best. I suggest you consider fenders. However, first you need to decide on tires that will be most appropriate to the load and pavement (or lack there of) types.
I would go with drop bars for their comfort, but position their tops even with or slightly higher than your saddle. I would go with bar-end shifters to match the number of speeds you have. Ultegra or DiaCompe road brake levers should finish off the job.

 

[boudreaux]

I've read a few articles about converting a mtb to a touring cycle and I want to get more input into this.

Currently, I have a fairly good mtb steel frame with a rigid fork and a rear rack. All other componentry on the bike are stock Shimano Alivino.

I understand that having a mtb frame delivers robustness/durability to a touring bike. Then to add dropped handlebars would help too. Any recommendations for the drivetrain (derailleurs, crank, chainwheel, etc.)?

My friend and I agree that touring bicycles tend to have dropped handlebars but isn't it contradictory to the fact that sitting upright with flat handle bars is better for long rides where as leaning forward with dropped handlebars is bad for longer rides?

Use the bars that suit you. You will have fewer issues with flat bars and compoents when dealing with a MTB frame. Drivetrain depends on what you want for gearing, and also simplicity and reliability for real touring. MTB stuff and fricion shifting gives low gears and is about bulletproof.

 

[jasong]

After having done a bit of touring in Europe, I think I wish I'd gone with 26inch wheels. Space is a premium when you're travelling. Get something smaller and everything is better. Tubes/tires are easier to find (although in europe it's very easy to find 700c tires/tubes, even in comprehensive grocery stores).

But the hweels are generally designed to take more weight which is what you want instead of real performance like on a real touring bike. You may want to look at S&S couplers or habve your frame modified so you can stick everything in a small bag and avoid hassles of travelling with big baggage.

Drops or flat bars is up to you. Try them both and stick with what you like.

Serviceability and size are the most important issues in my opinion. Fancy stuff is for when you're at home and near a place you know well. Practice with all your gear on local rides and try it all out beforehand, and become your very own good bike mechanic.

Use the bars that suit you. You will have fewer issues with flat bars and compoents when dealing with a MTB frame. Drivetrain depends on what you want for gearing, and also simplicity and reliability for real touring. MTB stuff and fricion shifting gives low gears and is about bulletproof.