Building my own Road Bike

[kennyg28]

Hello, my name is Kenny Grimmer, I am 13 years old and just recently crashed my KHS Flite 800 and totaled it to where it can no longer be ridden. My parents are forcing me to buy all the needed components and the frame to build my own bike. I need some advice from anyone who has experience or can help in any way. I am starting off with my frame, a Nashbar Intergrated Alloy/Carbon Road Frame. I need to know what kind of wheel set would go well with this. This coming 2013 year, I am going to be joining the junior racing and would like to keep my price and weight to a low.

 

[oldbobcat]

If you don't mind my saying, you're approaching this a little bit backwards. Choose your shifters, crankset, bottom bracket, and derailleurs first. Your wheels are the most interchangeable component. Once you establish the rest of your drivetrain, finding the wheels to work with it is pretty straightforward.

As an intermediate/junior competitor, you will be working with gearing restrictions. Working with the coach of a junior racing team would be vastly more helpful than getting advice from an internet forum of older riders with little knowledge of junior racing. Self-coaching is fine for recreational riders, but in competition there are too many pratfalls for a young rider to fall into. Find a racing club and work with a coach.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Junior roll-out:

1M6. Junior Gears.

The maximum chaingear ratio for Junior riders is based on age and discipline. Blocked gears will be allowed, except in National Championships. All tests for 51
compliance shall be done using the "roll-out method." There is no restriction for cyclo-cross or MTB races. For road and track the limits are:
Road
17-18: 7.93 meters (26’)(52x14)
15-16: "
13-14: "
10-12: "


[SIZE= 14px]Gear blocking has been allowed for many years, so no special equipment is required unless you make it to the Nats.[/SIZE]

[SIZE= 14px]As for wheels, Nashbar was selling last year's Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels for $300 with 20% off that today. $240...not too shabby.[/SIZE]

 

[kennyg28]

Oh! Sorry, I forgot to explain that I already have some of the other parts. I have already got my shifters(shimano ultegra) off the bike that I crashed. The same goes with my crankset(Shimano Ultegra), my front derailure(Shimano Ultegra) and my rear derailure(Shimano Dura Ace). By brakes are also Shimano Ultegra. the only items left to get are the bottom bracket(I have already bought the Shimano Dura Ace 9000 for my bottom bracket), The wheel set, handlebars, and a new Continental Grand Prix tire because I crashed my front wheel in to a rock going 30mph on a very fast turn. The frame completely broke into 2 different pieces in 3 different spots on the frame. My wheel set I am looking at is the [COLOR= rgb(34, 34, 34)]Miche Race Road Racing Wheelset. [/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(34, 34, 34)]The handlebars that I'm looking at are the Easton EA70 Handlebar.[/COLOR]

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Kenny, Miche is good stuff...Tullio Campagnolo got his start there. The Racing 707 wheels seem to be about equivalent to the Aksium/low-end Ksyrium line and they look good. They are machine-built, FWIW.

Easton EA70 bars are stiff enough to suit me.

 

[kennyg28]

Thankyou!!! I will add that to the list!

 

[kennyg28]

Okay, so I have my Wheels on the list but now I need some help with a bottom bracket. I am looking at a Dura Ace 9000 for my new bike because its not that expensive...any thoughts? And also, what is the difference between an English and a British thread on a bottom bracket?

 

[alienator]

Okay, so I have my Wheels on the list but now I need some help with a bottom bracket. I am looking at a Dura Ace 9000 for my new bike because its not that expensive...any thoughts? And also, what is the difference between an English and a British thread on a bottom bracket?

A regular ol' English threaded Dura Ace 9000 BB is what you need. British and English threaded are the same thing.

 

[kennyg28]

Thankyou!!!! I have also just picked out my new gears and stuff- I will be getting the Shimano 105 Black Groupset... any thoughts?

 

[kennyg28]

Also, another question I need to know is how do I wash a bike and it's compenents???

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Bucket, soap, water and some brushes and rags. I like the snap on chain cleaners (Park or Pedros, etc.) for cleaning the chain, but it's not a necessity.

Watch a dozen of these videos: https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGHP_enUS457US457&q=how+to+clean+a+bicycle

Save your old toothbrushes and don't believe all the hype about miracle cleaners and lubricants.

 

[danfoz]

The Shimano 105 works great. I did a few races on a 105 bike a couple of years ago.

Are you deciding to not use the old parts or were they damaged?

 

[danfoz]

I get away with a chain cleaning tool (w/cleaning fluid - I use citrus cleaner), a couple rags and a toothbrush doing a "dry clean". The chain gets dirty, the rear brake cluster picks up occasional detritus from the rear tire, the head tube area and head of the fork pick up a bunch of dust, and the chainstay gets dirty chain lube slap from FD downshifts, most of which I can handle with a quick wipe down with a soft dry rag. I usually only break out the bucket after rainy rides. It's a good idea to keep a clean well lubed chain but if you're finding any lubricant residue on the rear rim and/or spokes you've got too much. I give a couple spins running the chain through a paper towel to soak off excess after a cleaning. I usually ride a new chain for a bit or until it's rained before I first clean, but that's just me.

 

[kennyg28]

No... my parts are not damaged... I have all the Shimano Utegra 6500 Groupset except for my Rear Derailleur... its Dura Ace 7700. I planned on getting a new fork, handlebars, a new Miche wheelset and 105 5700 Black.
But my old parts will have to do for now because I can not afford the $563 dollars... im 13 and just srbonpent ALL of my saved up money on a new Alloy/Carbon intergrated frame.

 

[kennyg28]

Thankyou for the bike cleaning advice!!! The link was very helpful!!!