Bulletproof drivetrain?

Discussion in 'Mountain Bikes' started by Mr. E. Mann, Feb 14, 2003.

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  1. Mr. E. Mann

    Mr. E. Mann Guest

    I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    what's what.
     
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  2. Slacker

    Slacker Guest

    "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    > the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    > (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    > what's what.

    I've had very good reliability with XT cranks, Deore front der and XTR rear der/shifters. But (IMO)
    Shimano chains suck.....Sram very good!
    --
    Slacker
     
  3. Chris

    Chris Guest

    "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly, but plan to get
    offroading
    > soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the
    > wheels. I'm looking for very light and (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the
    > loop for too many years to really know what's what.
    >

    I find that mid-level stuff is the most reliable, but you sacrifice the "precision" of
    super-high-end stuff. Any crank that costs just under $100 (US), and Shimano LX ders and shifters,
    seems to have the best reliability/maintanence required ratio.

    Remember that often, reliability and weight are inversely porportionate: the more reliable something
    is, the heavier it tends to be...except RaceFace cranks. If you want to spend way too much money,
    buy a Next LP. They sure are purty.

    So, per my experience, you can beat the hell out of Shimano LX (and, really,
    XT...it's almost the same) stuff with a minimum of maintanence, and cranks like RaceFace Prodigy,
    Truvativ FireX, and Bontrager Select/Sport/Race can be bought for under $100 with rings and
    preform outstanding for mostly-street-some-trails riding.

    As for wheels, either spend a tone of money (CrossMax) or deal with an occasional truing. I have
    been crazy happy with Bontrager Race Tubeless wheels, but many here will tell you they are crap. If
    you plan on going for big drops/Dew riding, they suck, but they are the only XC wheel I've ridden
    hard that hasn't needed any work....course, I could just be lucky. They can be had on Ebay for under
    200 usually.

    Buy the cheapest chain your LBS has, and take care of it.

    Anything name-brand will work if you are into only occasional trail riding. If money is no option,
    and reliability is paramount, my experience says go RaceFace Next/Turbine for cranks, Shimano XT for
    shifters/ders, and Mavic Crossmax wheels. If you want to stay under 400-500 for everything, RaceFace
    Prodigy, Shimano LX, and some LX hubbed/Mavic rimmed wheels from the likes of JensonUSA will be
    great. Remember that someone will contradict me very soon.

    Chris
     
  4. Chris wrote:

    > So, per my experience, you can beat the hell out of Shimano LX (and, really,
    > XT...it's almost the same) stuff with a minimum of maintanence, and cranks like RaceFace Prodigy,
    > Truvativ FireX, and Bontrager Select/Sport/Race can be bought for under $100 with rings and
    > preform outstanding for mostly-street-some-trails riding.

    Stay away from low Bontrager parts as you'll have trouble finding parts that are worse.

    Shimano drive train components are your safest bet. Anything above Deore is reliable.
     
  5. Mrbusdriver

    Mrbusdriver Guest

    So is Deore crap? "Eric Lafferty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > Chris wrote:
    >
    > > So, per my experience, you can beat the hell out of Shimano LX (and,
    really,
    > > XT...it's almost the same) stuff with a minimum of maintanence, and
    cranks
    > > like RaceFace Prodigy, Truvativ FireX, and Bontrager Select/Sport/Race
    can
    > > be bought for under $100 with rings and preform outstanding for mostly-street-some-trails
    > > riding.
    >
    > Stay away from low Bontrager parts as you'll have trouble finding parts
    that are
    > worse.
    >
    > Shimano drive train components are your safest bet. Anything above Deore
    is
    > reliable.
     
  6. Dave W

    Dave W Guest

    On Sat, 15 Feb 2003 21:32:41 +1100, "MrBusdriver" <[email protected]$$> wrote:

    >So is Deore crap?

    lower end to be sure, but not as crap as some will have you believe. Been running Deore front and
    rear DER for 2 1/2 yrs. It's all about preventative maintenance. Deore hubs for 1 year so far. No
    problems with either as of yet.

    Dave
    >"Eric Lafferty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    >news:[email protected]...
    >> Chris wrote:
    >>
    >> > So, per my experience, you can beat the hell out of Shimano LX (and,
    >really,
    >> > XT...it's almost the same) stuff with a minimum of maintanence, and
    >cranks
    >> > like RaceFace Prodigy, Truvativ FireX, and Bontrager Select/Sport/Race
    >can
    >> > be bought for under $100 with rings and preform outstanding for mostly-street-some-trails
    >> > riding.
    >>
    >> Stay away from low Bontrager parts as you'll have trouble finding parts
    >that are
    >> worse.
    >>
    >> Shimano drive train components are your safest bet. Anything above Deore
    >is
    >> reliable.
    >
     
  7. MrBusdriver wrote:

    > So is Deore crap?
    >

    I should have said Deore or higher is safe.
     
  8. David L

    David L Guest

    "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly,

    The streets of L.A that you need a bullet proof drivetrain?

    but plan to get offroading
    > soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the
    > wheels. I'm looking for very light and (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the
    > loop for too many years to really know what's what.
    >

    Dave
     
  9. Tj

    Tj Guest

    No such animal.

    TJ

    "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly, but plan to get
    offroading
    > soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the
    > wheels. I'm looking for very light and (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the
    > loop for too many years to really know what's what.
     
  10. Mr. E. Mann

    Mr. E. Mann Guest

    "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    > the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    > (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    > what's what.
    >

    Thanks for all the answers. I'm leaning towards Shimano XTR deraileurs, unless someone has any good
    resons why I shold get something else. I'm replacing the Acera crap that came with my bike.

    BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike? (This is what I have
    http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?orig=us&minisite=10020&minisite=1
    0020&san=03Hardrock&bl=mountain&my=2003 )
     
  11. Mr. E. Mann wrote:
    > "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
    >
    >
    >>I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    >>riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    >>the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    >>(most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    >>what's what.
    >>
    >
    >
    > Thanks for all the answers. I'm leaning towards Shimano XTR deraileurs, unless someone has any
    > good resons why I shold get something else. I'm replacing the Acera crap that came with my bike.
    >
    > BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike? (This is what I have
    > http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?orig=us&minisite=10020&minisite=1
    > 0020&san=03Hardrock&bl=mountain&my=2003 )

    No offense, but if you're thinking about putting XTR on that bike, it'd probably be cheaper to just
    buy a new bike and sell that one. Buying bikes part by part is expensive.... trust me, I'm doing it
    now, and its expensive even with my sponsorships.

    I'd also save some money and buy XT or LX instead of XTR. I race mine, and I've got XT shifters,
    derailleurs, and hubs, and LX cranks. My new bike is going to be solid XT, with the possible
    exception of XTR derailleurs (when mine kick the bucket, most likely it'll just be the rear one).

    If you get a new bike, you'll get a better frame (more upgrade worthy), better wheels (make a HUGE
    difference in weight and performance!) a better fork (also makes a massive difference in weight and
    performance).

    But if you're only going to be doing light offroad? I suggest that you ride that bike till things
    break left and right, and save up your money. When it finally gives up the ghost, and everything is
    wearing out, then buy a new bike with XT/LX mix. You'll save money, and get the most out of both
    bikes. I started my bike with LX/Alivio, and have since replaced every single thing but the frame.
    Not a smart way to go, but my parents wouldn't let me sell it and get a new bike, so thats the way
    it happened ;)

    Jon Bond
     
  12. "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> spake thusly on or about Sun, 16 Feb 2003
    01:27:57 UTC

    -> BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike?

    lose 5 kg.

    --
    I hurt before the ride so fibro gives me a head start on the rest of the pack. silver lining?
    [email protected]
     
  13. "Mr. E. Mann" wrote:

    > "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
    >
    > Thanks for all the answers. I'm leaning towards Shimano XTR deraileurs, unless someone has any
    > good resons why I shold get something else. I'm replacing the Acera crap that came with my bike.
    >
    > BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike? (This is what I have
    > http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?orig=us&minisite=10020&minisite=1
    > 0020&san=03Hardrock&bl=mountain&my=2003 )

    I'd not recommend putting XTR deraileurs on that bike. With a MSRP of $330, the bike is intended for
    recreational, and light trial use. If you're not happy with the performance, you really need to
    upgrade the the whole bike. Better deraileurs will maybe shift a little better (and maybe not, as
    the shifters and cranks are not any better after the upgrade). Save money for a higher level bike,
    and if you need to replace parts stick to LX or Deore for your upgrades on that bike.
     
  14. roKeMS

    roKeMS New Member

    Joined:
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    The amount you'll spend on even a complete Deore (or above) drivetrain you're better off buying a new bike.
    I had to make the same decision and and just bit the bullet and bought a new bike.

    Bugger XTR, you can't fix'em when they break and they're $$$ as.

    Go LX/XT. The only difference is weight (which is nominal) and the preformance difference ain't worth writing home about unless you're a hardcore DH or XC bloke who is sponsored and can get them replaced for bugger all when you get a branch caught in your rear derailler and it get's ripped off.
    I've seen it happen.
     
  15. Mr. E. Mann wrote:
    > I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    > riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    > the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    > (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    > what's what.

    Shimano XT 8speed shifter pods, XT Rear Derailer XTR front Derailer Rafe Face North Shore ISIS
    cranks and BB SRAM chain PC48 and cassette chainrings are "consumables"
     
  16. Bomba

    Bomba Guest

    Mr. E. Mann wrote:

    > Thanks for all the answers. I'm leaning towards Shimano XTR deraileurs, unless someone has any
    > good resons why I shold get something else. I'm replacing the Acera crap that came with my bike.

    Oh you silly chicken. What's the point in putting on derailleurs that are nearly worth the price of
    your entire bike?

    > BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike?

    Firstly, take off your your brakes and your brake levers. Change your wheels to thin-walled jobs
    with 12 spokes, put on 1.5" tyres with low profile treads, Cut down your bars, remove the bar-end
    plugs, remove two of the bolts holding your handlebar in place and one of the bolts holding the stem
    to the steerer. Take out your seat and seat post - if you do this you can also remove the seat post
    clamp. Change your chainset for a single 24 tooth sprocket and if you haven't got one already,
    switch to a one-piece crank. Everybody knows that the seat tube is a superfluous piece of
    engineering, so it's quite possible to take a hacksaw to it and remove it. You can also drill holes
    in the downtube, toptube and headtube. Finally, it was previously only the premise of world-class
    velodrome riders, but filling your tyres with helium seriously lowers rolling resistance due to a
    lightening of the wheels.
     
  17. Bill Wheeler

    Bill Wheeler Guest

    On Sat, 15 Feb 2003 03:54:37 GMT, "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    >riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    >the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    >(most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really know
    >what's what.

    1 Chain 1 Chain ring 1 1 cog free wheel

    'bout as bullet proof as it gets,

    Peace, Bill

    The mind serves properly as a window glass rather than as a reflector, that is, the mind should give
    an immediate view instead of an interpretation of the world.
    :-]
     
  18. Dave W

    Dave W Guest

    On Sun, 16 Feb 2003 06:02:51 GMT, Eric Lafferty <[email protected]> wrote:

    >"Mr. E. Mann" wrote:
    >
    >> "Mr. E. Mann" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
    >>
    >> Thanks for all the answers. I'm leaning towards Shimano XTR deraileurs, unless someone has any
    >> good resons why I shold get something else. I'm replacing the Acera crap that came with my bike.
    >>
    >> BTW, what's the best way to drop some weight off of my bike? (This is what I have
    >> http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?orig=us&minisite=10020&minisite=1
    >> 0020&san=03Hardrock&bl=mountain&my=2003 )
    >
    >I'd not recommend putting XTR deraileurs on that bike. With a MSRP of $330, the bike is intended
    >for recreational, and light trial use. If you're not happy with the performance, you really need to
    >upgrade the the whole bike. Better deraileurs will maybe shift a little better (and maybe not, as
    >the shifters and cranks are not any better after the upgrade). Save money for a higher level bike,
    >and if you need to replace parts stick to LX or Deore for your upgrades on that bike.

    Exactly right. No sense in loading up that bike with XTR, unless you just want to spend your dough.
    I got a baseline K2, and have gone the same route as Jon. But it hasn't taken that long to get it to
    LX/Deore level. I've got as much money tied up in just the wheels, and the fork than the whole bike
    cost new. But It's all mine, and probably no other like it in the world.

    Dave

    avoid the noid
     
  19. Bill Wheeler wrote:

    > 1 Chain 1 Chain ring 1 1 cog free wheel

    aye!
     
  20. Mr. E. Mann

    Mr. E. Mann Guest

    ClydesdaleMTB <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

    > Mr. E. Mann wrote:
    >> I'm looking for suggestions on setting up a bulletproof drivetrain for my bike. I'm currently
    >> riding on the street mostly, but plan to get offroading soon. Anyway, I'm planning on replacing
    >> the deraileurs, shifters, cranks, chain and possibly the wheels. I'm looking for very light and
    >> (most importantly) extremely reliable. I've been out of the loop for too many years to really
    >> know what's what.
    >
    > Shimano XT 8speed shifter pods, XT Rear Derailer XTR front Derailer Rafe Face North Shore ISIS
    > cranks and BB SRAM chain PC48 and cassette chainrings are "consumables"
    >

    Thanks for the (serious) replies. I'm surprised that so many people would rather throw out the bike
    instead of upgrading. Seems like a waste of money to me since I would want to change things on a
    bike that cost more that three times what I paid on this one. My main concern was to upgrade my
    deraulers since everything I read about Acera indicates they are crap and the performance I've been
    geting out of them was poor and noisy. Also, from what I've heard it's becoming difficult to get 8
    speed parts since 9 speed seems to be the "in" thing. If I can get a good 8 speed setup, I'll live
    with the cranks I have now. I don't really need any more gears on the back, since I don't use the
    largest sprocket on the back (does anyone?). If anything I would want to change the casette to
    something that will give a little better top end. I'm still heavily leaning toward XTR front and
    rear deraulers, because of all the great reviews I've read about them I honestly don't feel that $75
    is that much money for a rear derailer. I Guess I've never been that much of a penny pincher.
     
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