I've recently inherited £1000, which I want to spend on a bike I can do some light touring with but moves pretty quickly when it's not weighed down. I have been recommended two bikes - the Dawes Century (apparently sold out everywhere) and the Ridgeback Platinum. Are some other bikes out there of a similar sort if I want to make a comparison/see a bigger range of bikes? And what do people think of the Ridgeback Platinum, is it worth the price?
Buying an audax for 2012, budget £1000
- Thread starter sorw201
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FWIW. The RIDGEBACK PLATINUM looks good to me ...
But, I would probably choose the RADIUM ("base") model because it comes in a Black frame ([COLOR= #808080]a purely cosmetic choice[/COLOR]) ... or, the MERCURY because it has a Reynolds 520 steel frame ([COLOR= #808080]just a personal preference[/COLOR]) ...
BTW. I'm actually a big fan of so-called Hybrid frames when they have a RIGID fork up front when fatter tyres or mud guards are on the list of possible components ...
Hybrid[COLOR= #ff0000]/[/COLOR]Sports[COLOR= #ff0000]/[/COLOR]Touring frames have the slightly longer wheelbase that you are looking for ... and, some have the clearance for truly massive 700x53 29er tyres if you were to eschew the mud guards.
Of course, you can also put as thin a tyre on the bike as the rims can handle:
Another option, particularly if you want a slightly higher BB, could be a DIY conversion of a MTB 26er Hardtail if a 700x32 tyre ([COLOR= #808080]sans mud guards & 700x28 with mud guards[/COLOR]) is the size you anticipate using. Here's one which I am cobbling together ([COLOR= #808080]the rear caliper reach is 59mm -- the 26er brake bosses were removed from the seat stays & the forward facing "fender mounting hole" was enlarged to accept a recessed brake nut[/COLOR]):
The disadvantage of using a Hardtail 26er is the resultant low headtube relative to the saddle -- as pictured, the saddle is a bit higher than it would actually be for me ... regardless, while the comparatively low stem is "okay" for me, if you aren't flexible then it might be a no-go ... or, a high-rise stem could be used.
The particular fork's brake reach is 49mm ([COLOR= #808080]not set properly in the pic[/COLOR]), so either a 39-49 or 49-59 caliper can be used ([COLOR= #808080]the rear has a 49-59[/COLOR]):
AFAIK, most Hybrids can handle a 700x42 tyre with mud guards installed, BTW.
A 29er Hardtail frame + rigid fork might be an alternative if unlimited tyre size as an option you wanted to maintain.
I'm sure that you could cobble similar, new components together for under £1000. You'll should be able to end up with better components for the same cost which you would pay for an off-the-peg bike.
But, I would probably choose the RADIUM ("base") model because it comes in a Black frame ([COLOR= #808080]a purely cosmetic choice[/COLOR]) ... or, the MERCURY because it has a Reynolds 520 steel frame ([COLOR= #808080]just a personal preference[/COLOR]) ...
- And then, replace the SORA shifters on the Radium with some 10-speed Campagnolo (Veloce) shifters -- I think that they work better.
- The 9-speed TIAGRA shifters on the Mercury could be replaced with either a set of 10-speed or 11-speed Campagnolo shifters.. reselling the Shimano shifters will offset the cost of the Campagnolo shifters, BTW.
BTW. I'm actually a big fan of so-called Hybrid frames when they have a RIGID fork up front when fatter tyres or mud guards are on the list of possible components ...
- If you were to look back at the development of bicycle frames from about 1980 forward you would see that shortly after the advent of MTBs & cantilever brakes, those brakes appeared on Touring frames ...
- Eventually, the horizontal top tube became sloped ... that's "okay" ... but, due to marketing pressures, too many Hybrids have been sold with cheap suspension forks ... but, not all.
Hybrid[COLOR= #ff0000]/[/COLOR]Sports[COLOR= #ff0000]/[/COLOR]Touring frames have the slightly longer wheelbase that you are looking for ... and, some have the clearance for truly massive 700x53 29er tyres if you were to eschew the mud guards.
Of course, you can also put as thin a tyre on the bike as the rims can handle:
Another option, particularly if you want a slightly higher BB, could be a DIY conversion of a MTB 26er Hardtail if a 700x32 tyre ([COLOR= #808080]sans mud guards & 700x28 with mud guards[/COLOR]) is the size you anticipate using. Here's one which I am cobbling together ([COLOR= #808080]the rear caliper reach is 59mm -- the 26er brake bosses were removed from the seat stays & the forward facing "fender mounting hole" was enlarged to accept a recessed brake nut[/COLOR]):
The disadvantage of using a Hardtail 26er is the resultant low headtube relative to the saddle -- as pictured, the saddle is a bit higher than it would actually be for me ... regardless, while the comparatively low stem is "okay" for me, if you aren't flexible then it might be a no-go ... or, a high-rise stem could be used.
The particular fork's brake reach is 49mm ([COLOR= #808080]not set properly in the pic[/COLOR]), so either a 39-49 or 49-59 caliper can be used ([COLOR= #808080]the rear has a 49-59[/COLOR]):
AFAIK, most Hybrids can handle a 700x42 tyre with mud guards installed, BTW.
A 29er Hardtail frame + rigid fork might be an alternative if unlimited tyre size as an option you wanted to maintain.
- BTW. Both of the pictured, GIANT frames are steel & began life with 135mm rear spacing which I reduced to 130mm so I could use any of my existing Road wheels.
- Steel Hardtails have suddenly become fashionable in the States, again, but I think that you can still find new frames at a reasonable price -- just be conscious of the seat tube size & head tube size to avoid surprises ([COLOR= #808080]27.2 or 31.6 & 1 1/8" are still standards, AFAIK[/COLOR]) ...
- YOU would not have to choose a steel frame, of course.
I'm sure that you could cobble similar, new components together for under £1000. You'll should be able to end up with better components for the same cost which you would pay for an off-the-peg bike.
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