While stretching and then anchoring a new derailleur cable should the barrel adjuster be set all the way in, all out, or somewhere in the middle ? or doesn't it matter where it's set at ?
Personally, I rotate the barrels all the way in and then back it out about a turn or turn and a half. That way if the cables are initially too tight, I have a little wiggle room, but plenty of room to allow for housing compression. On one of my bikes, I set it up without barrels (Cannondale-Record- Nokons), and to be honest it's fine. It took a couple times on the stand to get fully dialed in, but after that, no worries.litespeedguy said:While stretching and then anchoring a new derailleur cable should the barrel adjuster be set all the way in, all out, or somewhere in the middle ? or doesn't it matter where it's set at ?
thanks Peter !!PeterF said:Personally, I rotate the barrels all the way in and then back it out about a turn or turn and a half. That way if the cables are initially too tight, I have a little wiggle room, but plenty of room to allow for housing compression. On one of my bikes, I set it up without barrels (Cannondale-Record- Nokons), and to be honest it's fine. It took a couple times on the stand to get fully dialed in, but after that, no worries.
+1.PeterF said:Personally, I rotate the barrels all the way in and then back it out about a turn or turn and a half. That way if the cables are initially too tight, I have a little wiggle room, but plenty of room to allow for housing compression. On one of my bikes, I set it up without barrels (Cannondale-Record- Nokons), and to be honest it's fine. It took a couple times on the stand to get fully dialed in, but after that, no worries.
+1 just means that he agrees with the PeterF. Now since I also agree with PeterF, I would put either +1 or +2. You'll catch on. I have been a member of this forum for over a year and I still have problems figuring out what some of the acronyms mean .litespeedguy said:+1 ????????????
+3 My frame was set up by the builder without barrel adjusters as well. He assured me I wouldn't need them; they are just extra hardware to cause problems. In 16K miles, the only cable adjustment needed was after the initial break in, about 600 miles.PeterF said:Personally, I rotate the barrels all the way in and then back it out about a turn or turn and a half. That way if the cables are initially too tight, I have a little wiggle room, but plenty of room to allow for housing compression. On one of my bikes, I set it up without barrels (Cannondale-Record- Nokons), and to be honest it's fine. It took a couple times on the stand to get fully dialed in, but after that, no worries.
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