Cable Problems ( Cold)

Discussion in 'Recumbent bicycles' started by Jay, Dec 14, 2003.

  1. Jay

    Jay Guest

    Cable Problems ( Cold)

    In the past few weeks, I have started having cable problems. The temperatures have gone below
    freezing rather consistently. Both my rear shifter cable and one brake cable have been totally
    unwilling to work. They are both new. Should I be dismantling and drying somehow? Should I switch
    the lube to something like anti-freeze?
     
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  2. When it comes to freezing, I am a neophyte on the subject of cable freezing. However, I deduct that
    moisture is settling into your cables. I normally use a marine grade grease with PTFE. According to
    the claims, this grease prevents moisture from entering into the friction area. I suggest that the
    cables be cooked at low heat to expel any moisture before applying the grease. Upon applying a
    liberal amount to the inner cable, I would also apply the grease to all exposed areas of the inside
    cable to prevent moisture from wicking back into the housing.

    Of course, I'm confident that someone has perhaps a better solution than this. Therefore, I humbly
    await to read more on this subject.

    Rick Horwitz www.hellbentcycles.com

    "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:BC01C696.25B1B%[email protected]...
    > Cable Problems ( Cold)
    >
    > In the past few weeks, I have started having cable problems. The temperatures have gone below
    > freezing rather consistently. Both my rear shifter cable and one brake cable have been totally
    > unwilling to work. They are both new. Should I be dismantling and drying somehow? Should I switch
    > the lube to something like anti-freeze?
     
  3. Jay: use a lube solvent like LPS #1 or #2 inside of the gear and brake housing as well as the cables
    themselfs. these solvents do NOT freeze and it will keep your cables free flowing. Thank you Earl
    GRR,RANS V2 Ti Rush,Ti Pursuit
     
  4. Jay

    Jay Guest

    > use a lube solvent like LPS #1 or #2 inside of the gear and brake housing as well as the cables
    > themselfs. these solvents do NOT freeze and it will keep your cables free flowing. Thank you Earl

    What is LPS?
     
  5. >Should I be dismantling and drying somehow?

    I usually just replace the cable and housing when it freezes. It is full of water and dirt that does
    not get out easily.

    >Should I switch the lube to something like anti-freeze?

    Synthetic oil, or any oil that stays liquid in cold.

    Shimano XTR cables come with housings that seal the cable. This might work, but so far i have
    not found anyone who would sell the seals in small quatities. I'm hoping the seals fit standard
    cable housings.

    http://www.sjscycles.com/store/cat467.htm

    This page lists some interesting cable lubricator things, and they sell the XTR seals in
    packs of 100.
     
  6. "Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:BC01C696.25B1B%[email protected]...
    > Cable Problems ( Cold)
    >
    > In the past few weeks, I have started having cable problems. The temperatures have gone below
    > freezing rather consistently. Both my rear shifter cable and one brake cable have been totally
    > unwilling to work. They are both new. Should I be dismantling and drying somehow? Should I switch
    > the lube to something like anti-freeze?

    Here's a method that seems to be good for a whole winter: it basically involves running the cable
    inner in a bath of antifreeze retained by the cable outer.

    Needed: small quantity ethylene glycol antifreeze, undiluted, length plastic tubing that fits over a
    cable outer and into the Schraeder end of a pump (I use transparent oxygen-mask tubing)

    Method: Remove crimps from cable ends and superglue or solder the cable-ends instead to stop
    them fraying Remove cable inners. Suck some antifreeze into the tube - a few inches is plenty..
    Keep it in the
    U.Fit the tube over the cable outer and into the Schraeder head of a pump. Slowly operate the pump
    until water is pushed out and clean antifreeze emerges from the other end of the outer. Detach
    tube. Refit inners and adjust brakes and gears.

    Pure antifreeze will inhibit rust and allows slick shifting and braking. Grease goes too thick at
    low temps IME. It will prevent new water getting in and will prevent freezing for a long time.
    Antifreeze is only a bit more toxic than ordinary alcohol, but don't drink it, wipe up any spillage
    and don't let pets or children get at it.

    SteveC (Norway)
     
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