Campag crank install problem

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Robin Hubert, Apr 3, 2003.

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  1. Robin Hubert

    Robin Hubert Guest

    Installing new Centaur "10sp" triple today with ACH 111 bb. Torque cranks to 30ftlbs. Continue new
    bike build. Trying to get the front derailer to shift onto small ring ... cannot. Remove right crank
    bolt. Look into bore and see the end of the spindle at the end of the bore! Not good. Uninstall,
    reinstall, same result. Man, I shoulda known it didn't feel right when I achieved torque and the
    torque wrench clicked! Look at left crank ... it's ok. Go get new right crank (Racing T) and install
    ... same problem!!! Go get Mirage triple and install ... no problem. Goofy?!? Try another bb with
    all three cranks ... same results. Try third bb (older one with silver spindle ... the new ones now
    have brown/black spindles - making these in Taiwan now?) ... same results.

    Yesterday, I installed the same setup (Centaur 10sp triple) on another bike and it was ok. I even
    uninstalled/reinstalled that one to double check. Just fine.

    So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years anyway) yet new-never-installed
    model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar defects? I presume they are
    the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and polishes/anodizes them with new
    logos as needed? What the hell's going on?

    Thanks for your input.
    --
    Robin Hubert <[email protected]
     
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  2. Paul Kopit

    Paul Kopit Guest

    Something is wrong with the way the AC-H bb went into the bb shell or something wrong with the bb. I
    don't know how you torque that crazy star pattern locknut with a torque wrench.

    The drive side 'cup' which is not removable, can be moved outward. Make sure it is down flush to the
    face of the bb. You just screw the left side in snugly and it shoud be against the frame and torque
    the right side only.

    There is a possibility that you need a 115 bb. You can get a 1 mm freewheel spacer and put it over
    the right cup before installation. If it is too narrow to fit over the cup, cut it so it opens a
    little. I don't think this is your problem.

    On Fri, 04 Apr 2003 02:42:12 GMT, "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >What the hell's going on?
     
  3. Mark Hickey

    Mark Hickey Guest

    "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote:

    >So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years anyway) yet
    >new-never-installed model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar defects?
    >I presume they are the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and
    >polishes/anodizes them with new logos as needed? What the hell's going on?

    Is it possible all your BB's are 68mm, but that your frame's BB shell is 73mm?

    Also, if the frame has an oversize seat tube, a 111mm spindle is very close to being too short. I
    normally go with 115 on a bike with a 32mm (1-1/4") seat tube.

    Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame
     
  4. Robin Hubert

    Robin Hubert Guest

    "Mark Hickey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]...
    > "Robin Hubert" <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >So, what's the chances I have two cranks, one an older (coupla years
    anyway)
    > >yet new-never-installed model Racing T and the other, a 2003 Centaur 10sp triple, with similar
    > >defects? I presume they are the same forgings. Perhaps Campagnolo has tons of these things and
    > >polishes/anodizes them
    with
    > >new logos as needed? What the hell's going on?
    >
    > Is it possible all your BB's are 68mm, but that your frame's BB shell is 73mm?
    >
    > Also, if the frame has an oversize seat tube, a 111mm spindle is very close to being too short. I
    > normally go with 115 on a bike with a 32mm (1-1/4") seat tube.
    >

    Maybe I wasn't clear but both you and Paul missed the point. It's not the bb that's the problem. Two
    of four cranks go on all four bottom brackets way too far. That is, the crank bolit is bottoming out
    on the spindle; ie. the crank is going onto the spindle too far. The shifting problem was just a
    sign that led me to this discovery.

    I'm going to try more permutations today.
     
  5. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    "Paul Kopit" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:eek:[email protected]...
    > Something is wrong with the way the AC-H bb went into the bb shell or something wrong with the bb.
    > I don't know how you torque that crazy star pattern locknut with a torque wrench.
    -snip other useful ideas-

    Just as with all modern cartridge BBs, you can drive a torque wrench on the
    o.e.m. style tool with a socket. That method givces you both an accurate measurement of torque as
    well as shredded plastic cup splines and bloody knuckles.

    We strongly prefer the Tacx tools. Using a torque wrench with those you are relegated to a
    crow'sfoot.

    I have to admit not bothering as I have a pretty good feel for that torque, having used a torque
    wrench in that range for that job for a good long while. We do periodically test each other with the
    scale facing away from the operator. I think that's a good idea in a shop where torque values can
    creep up or down over time unless checked regularly.

    --
    Andrew Muzi http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
     
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