Campagnolo Cassettes



Roadie_scum

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Nov 14, 2003
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I am purchasing a new campy chorus 10-speed groupset (commited to campy because of my training wheel freewheel body [record hubs], and I'm used to it). I'm a little frustrated with the range of sprocket sizes offered in their standard cassettes. I race, and I need a big enough gear to sprint and go down hills, so I don't want to run smaller than a 53-12, but I would really like an easier gear than 39-25, which is the biggest rear sprocket I can get from standard campy cassettes. I need to climb 10%+ grades, and although I can do that in a 25, I'd really prefer a gear that lets me spin - something like a 27 or 28. Does anyone know if someone makes a 12-28 10 speed campag compatible cassette, or have any of you had success with a different solution to this problem? I am getting a medium cage rear derailleur, which should take up to a 29 if I can find a compatible cassette.

I have both shimano and campag compatible freewheel bodies for my race wheels, so I might be able to run a Shimano Dura-Ace 10 speed 12-27. Has anyone had success with this? Are they compatible?

Cheers,

The Roadie.

Dream cassette:
12,13,14,15,16,18,21,23,25,28

Maybe I'll wait for 20 speed so I can run an 11-30 straight block...
 
Roadie_scum said:
I am purchasing a new campy chorus 10-speed groupset (commited to campy because of my training wheel freewheel body [record hubs], and I'm used to it). I'm a little frustrated with the range of sprocket sizes offered in their standard cassettes. I race, and I need a big enough gear to sprint and go down hills, so I don't want to run smaller than a 53-12, but I would really like an easier gear than 39-25, which is the biggest rear sprocket I can get from standard campy cassettes. I need to climb 10%+ grades, and although I can do that in a 25, I'd really prefer a gear that lets me spin - something like a 27 or 28. Does anyone know if someone makes a 12-28 10 speed campag compatible cassette, or have any of you had success with a different solution to this problem? I am getting a medium cage rear derailleur, which should take up to a 29 if I can find a compatible cassette.

I have both shimano and campag compatible freewheel bodies for my race wheels, so I might be able to run a Shimano Dura-Ace 10 speed 12-27. Has anyone had success with this? Are they compatible?

Cheers,

The Roadie.

Dream cassette:
12,13,14,15,16,18,21,23,25,28

Maybe I'll wait for 20 speed so I can run an 11-30 straight block...
Campy and shimano 10 speed spacing is close enough that you can usually run campy 10 shifters and RD with a shimano 10 casette.
 
I'm with you.

I've been looking into the compact crank setup.

Heard so many claims that I thought I would check it out.

Currently I've got a 12-25 and 53-39.

I've run the numbers through a gear calculator, and if you go to the 50/34 compact, and a 11-23 cassette, you actually get more gear inches on both the top and the bottom of the range. If you just want to gain more on one end, there are several other setups you can try.

Only problem is, of course, that you have to drop some dollars to get this. Haven't figured out yet if it is worth it.

FSA only builds for ISIS and Octalink BB's, and Campy is rumored to be coming out with a compact, but of course it will cost a zillion, and probably won't be able to get any cheap off e-bay or anything for a while.

There is a guy on e-bay who sells a carbon, campy square taper compact crankset. He has great feedback, but I am just not sure about the product.

Anyway, just a thought.

Whit
 
boudreaux said:
Campy and shimano 10 speed spacing is close enough that you can usually run campy 10 shifters and RD with a shimano 10 casette.

Hmmm. I was thinking about that. Have you actually done this or is it theoretical?
 
Whitney said:
I'm with you.

I've been looking into the compact crank setup.

Heard so many claims that I thought I would check it out.

Currently I've got a 12-25 and 53-39.

I've run the numbers through a gear calculator, and if you go to the 50/34 compact, and a 11-23 cassette, you actually get more gear inches on both the top and the bottom of the range. If you just want to gain more on one end, there are several other setups you can try.

Only problem is, of course, that you have to drop some dollars to get this. Haven't figured out yet if it is worth it.

FSA only builds for ISIS and Octalink BB's, and Campy is rumored to be coming out with a compact, but of course it will cost a zillion, and probably won't be able to get any cheap off e-bay or anything for a while.

There is a guy on e-bay who sells a carbon, campy square taper compact crankset. He has great feedback, but I am just not sure about the product.

Anyway, just a thought.

Whit

Yeah, the compact is a good idea but requires cash I don't have at the moment. I'm not too sure about that campy compact setup. Sounds very odd given that they don't make one that I've heard of. 34-23 is about the same as a 39-26, so still not the dream easy gear, but an improvement on 39-25. Could you run an 11-25 cassette with it?

Still dreaming...
 
With regards the 12-28 campag cassette, why don't you get the sprockets that you want.
That way you can choose the gearing that you will need.

I have a collection of sprockets that depending on the race i can swap over and have the gears that are best.

I don't know if that is an option for you or not.
 
wardie2000 said:
With regards the 12-28 campag cassette, why don't you get the sprockets that you want.
That way you can choose the gearing that you will need.

I have a collection of sprockets that depending on the race i can swap over and have the gears that are best.

I don't know if that is an option for you or not.
I run an 11-27 on Campy 10sp. I LOVE it compared to the 13-26 I have on my other bike (also Campy). Now, this is a SHIMANO hub with Wheels Manufacturing's cassette. They give you the spacers and cogs so that a Campy 10sp fits on a Shimano (9sp?) hub. Works just fine.

I also use a Dura Ace 10sp chain because it's narrower, which I figured would make the drivetrain quieter (can't really tell, but since it was cheaper than the C-10 chain, what the heck). I wonder if in addition to Boud's note about running the plain old Dura Ace 12-27 (10sp, I assume?) you might ensure better results w/ the D/A chain, too. Maybe, maybe not.
 
Roadie Scum -

I am getting a medium cage rear derailleur, which should take up to a 29 if I can find a compatible cassette.
I don't see what your problem is, because if you're getting the Chorus 10 med. cage der., you can easily get a Campy 13-29 in Record, Chorus, Centaur, or Veloce flavors, which would give you the 26T & 29T low end.

You didn't specify which cogset(s) you have now, but I'm assuming 12-25 10v. If you wanted to build your "dream cassette" of 12,13,14,15,16,18,21,23,25,28 you could do this:

(Go to http://www.branfordbike.com/cassette/cog16a.html They sell individual Campy cogs.)

Option #1:

Let's say you have a Record or Chorus 12-25 10v cassette now and want that exact gearing above - except the 28T would have to be 29T and in actual use there is very little difference - you'll have to take out the 16-17 combo, as well as the 19-21 and 23-25 combo's because on Record & Chorus those gears are pinned together. Buy the single 16, 18, 21, 23 cogs, and then the 26-29 combo. The 16, 21, 23T cogs are $12.88 ea. + $19.88 for 18T + $49.88 for 26-29T combo = $108.40, plus shipping and use your 12, 13, 14, 15 existing cogs/spacers.


Option #2:

If you want to build a specific gear range, you should buy Centaur or Veloce cassettes, because only the 2 largest cogs are pinned on any Centaur cassette, and the Veloce's are not pinned at all. Otherwise there is NO difference between the Record, Chorus, Centaur, or Veloce versions of 10v Campy Ultra-Drive cassettes. The cogs are all the same nickel-steel, same weight, same U-D ramping, etc. (Unless you want Ti cogs which of course means Record only). For good prices on Centaur cassettes, go to www.greenfishadventuresports.com

Buy the 12-23 Veloce (there's no 12-23 Centaur version), remove the 17 & 19 single cogs and add the 26-29 combo. Probably the least expensive option overall.


Option #3:

Buy the 13-29 Centaur, take out the 13T top gear and 17 single, add a 12T top gear and 18T single.


*With Options 2 & 3, you'll also have all of the other cogs from your existing cassette to use when the duplicated sizes wear out.
 
Wurm said:
Roadie Scum -

I don't see what your problem is, because if you're getting the Chorus 10 med. cage der., you can easily get a Campy 13-29 in Record, Chorus, Centaur, or Veloce flavors, which would give you the 26T & 29T low end.

Because, as I said at the start, when you race up you also race down. I need to be able to descend and sprint as well as climb. I want a 12. But thanks for the info - interesting and helpful.
 
What would you like to know about the product off of Ebay... I have a set....50/36 but it is 110 bolt so you could go 34 if you wanted......Personally they look just like FSA's without the graphics....

I have had 2 sets from him.....the other was a standard and worked great with my Campy BB.

I still have my 12/23 by the way...probably next year and I will get an 11....

Biff

Whitney said:
I'm with you.

I've been looking into the compact crank setup.

Heard so many claims that I thought I would check it out.

Currently I've got a 12-25 and 53-39.

I've run the numbers through a gear calculator, and if you go to the 50/34 compact, and a 11-23 cassette, you actually get more gear inches on both the top and the bottom of the range. If you just want to gain more on one end, there are several other setups you can try.

Only problem is, of course, that you have to drop some dollars to get this. Haven't figured out yet if it is worth it.

FSA only builds for ISIS and Octalink BB's, and Campy is rumored to be coming out with a compact, but of course it will cost a zillion, and probably won't be able to get any cheap off e-bay or anything for a while.

There is a guy on e-bay who sells a carbon, campy square taper compact crankset. He has great feedback, but I am just not sure about the product.

Anyway, just a thought.

Whit
 
Because, as I said at the start, when you race up you also race down. I need to be able to descend and sprint as well as climb. I want a 12.

As I showed above, you have 3 ways to get a wider than normal range cassette with a 12 top gear, plus all the gears in between that you want.

If you're spinning out (100-120 pedal rpm) in sprints on a 53/12 or even 13, then you ought to be racing Pro level, and shouldn't be needing any lower than a 39/25-26 for even Alpe d'Huez-type climbs. Otherwise, anything downhill over about 35 mph and you would be wasting your energy spinning a 53/12 or 11. At that point gravity is doing the work.
 
Wurm said:
As I showed above, you have 3 ways to get a wider than normal range cassette with a 12 top gear, plus all the gears in between that you want.

If you're spinning out (100-120 pedal rpm) in sprints on a 53/12 or even 13, then you ought to be racing Pro level, and shouldn't be needing any lower than a 39/25-26 for even Alpe d'Huez-type climbs. Otherwise, anything downhill over about 35 mph and you would be wasting your energy spinning a 53/12 or 11. At that point gravity is doing the work.

I think in kilometers rather than miles, but from my calculation 35 mph is only 56km/h. In a bunch sprint I'd be surprised if I didn't hit 60 and I'm not much of a sprinter [more of a fighter :) ]. I also regularly do races and training rides where a considerable period of time (5-15 minute periods, sometimes much longer, on a flat) is spent around 50-60km/h. I think this makes me decent A grade, though some B graders can do it. Certainly not pro. I'm not sure where it stands me in the 'cat' system UK and USA ppl seem to use (though I'd be interested to have some insight). Actually, with a big tailwind, I've rolled turns at above 60km/h on a flat. Having the gears to do it definitely helps.

If I climb a steep grade, I still need (or at least want so I can maintain a comfortable cadence) more than a 39-25. Alpe d'Huez is long and, in the scheme of things, not that steep, so it's not surprising that pros don't ride less than a 25 up it.

It's definitely worth pedalling downhills even at 35mph/56kmh. If I didn't I'd be dropped every time I descended, which would really be a waste of one of my strengths - climbing.

Anyway, thanks for the info on interchangable cogs - that's definitely useful. I'm thinking now I might just buy two cassettes (a 13-27 or 13-29 and a 12-21?) and then I'll have plenty of options since they come with most of the possible cog sizes I'd want. Cheers.
 
bstephens said:
What would you like to know about the product off of Ebay...


Hi!

I I just don't know anything about the build quality, finish, durability, service/responsiveness of the guy, or anything like that.

Not that I mistrust him, or suspect that any of those things are bad, just that I know something of the company FSA, and from what I know, they have a pretty good reputation, they are pretty responsive to problems, they build good quality, well-finished parts, etc.

I like what the guy says about lifetime warranty, etc. and from the pics, the parts look pretty good.

What do you think about the quality? How is the finish? Cranks take a lot of rubbing, heel-knocking, etc. and I would like to have a pretty thick finish on there to offer some protection. How long have you had them? Have you had any problems? Do you like them? How many miles have you put on them? etc.

Thanks a lot.

Whit
 
Your right really....I would not trust him either. I did communicate with him quite a bit before I purchased.

The First set I got from him were very nice. I liked the no logo on them...very clean and "pretty" I am 99% positive that the cranks are IRD OEM's.

http://store.interlocracing.com/incarocr.html

http://store.interlocracing.com/moccorocacr.html

The both look exactly like the ones pictured online here. They have to be OEM from someone....LOL

I am now riding the compact version and like it very much. It is very beefy looking. I like the guy. He is responsive and nice. I have not yet had to send anything back to him so I can not comment on her service but his responce time is very good.....

I am happy with the products as well. Both work very well and I have had no issues with them. They are really your only choice with the Campy SQ BB unless you want to spring for the new Campy ones coming out at the end of this year.....for me they are just a little bit much....

:)

Hope this helps..

Biff

Whitney said:
bstephens said:
What would you like to know about the product off of Ebay...


Hi!

I I just don't know anything about the build quality, finish, durability, service/responsiveness of the guy, or anything like that.

Not that I mistrust him, or suspect that any of those things are bad, just that I know something of the company FSA, and from what I know, they have a pretty good reputation, they are pretty responsive to problems, they build good quality, well-finished parts, etc.

I like what the guy says about lifetime warranty, etc. and from the pics, the parts look pretty good.

What do you think about the quality? How is the finish? Cranks take a lot of rubbing, heel-knocking, etc. and I would like to have a pretty thick finish on there to offer some protection. How long have you had them? Have you had any problems? Do you like them? How many miles have you put on them? etc.

Thanks a lot.

Whit
 
bstephens said:
Your right really....I would not trust him either. I did communicate with him quite a bit before I purchased.

The First set I got from him were very nice. I liked the no logo on them...very clean and "pretty" I am 99% positive that the cranks are IRD OEM's.

http://store.interlocracing.com/incarocr.html

http://store.interlocracing.com/moccorocacr.html

The both look exactly like the ones pictured online here. They have to be OEM from someone....LOL

I am now riding the compact version and like it very much. It is very beefy looking. I like the guy. He is responsive and nice. I have not yet had to send anything back to him so I can not comment on her service but his responce time is very good.....

I am happy with the products as well. Both work very well and I have had no issues with them. They are really your only choice with the Campy SQ BB unless you want to spring for the new Campy ones coming out at the end of this year.....for me they are just a little bit much....

:)

Hope this helps..

Biff



Hey thanks!!

Yes, that helps a lot!

I may give that guy a try.

Whit
Whit
 
Roadie_scum said:
Anyway, thanks for the info on interchangable cogs - that's definitely useful. I'm thinking now I might just buy two cassettes (a 13-27 or 13-29 and a 12-21?) and then I'll have plenty of options since they come with most of the possible cog sizes I'd want. Cheers.
Yer welcome, O Scum of Da Road! ( :cool: handle) Good Ruck with the gearing and your races!
 
Roadie_scum said:
I think in kilometers rather than miles, but from my calculation 35 mph is only 56km/h. In a bunch sprint I'd be surprised if I didn't hit 60 and I'm not much of a sprinter [more of a fighter :) ]. I also regularly do races and training rides where a considerable period of time (5-15 minute periods, sometimes much longer, on a flat) is spent around 50-60km/h. I think this makes me decent A grade, though some B graders can do it. Certainly not pro. I'm not sure where it stands me in the 'cat' system UK and USA ppl seem to use (though I'd be interested to have some insight). Actually, with a big tailwind, I've rolled turns at above 60km/h on a flat. Having the gears to do it definitely helps.

If I climb a steep grade, I still need (or at least want so I can maintain a comfortable cadence) more than a 39-25. Alpe d'Huez is long and, in the scheme of things, not that steep, so it's not surprising that pros don't ride less than a 25 up it.

It's definitely worth pedalling downhills even at 35mph/56kmh. If I didn't I'd be dropped every time I descended, which would really be a waste of one of my strengths - climbing.

Anyway, thanks for the info on interchangable cogs - that's definitely useful. I'm thinking now I might just buy two cassettes (a 13-27 or 13-29 and a 12-21?) and then I'll have plenty of options since they come with most of the possible cog sizes I'd want. Cheers.

Why not the Wheels Manufacturing 11-27 then?
 
Aztec said:
Why not the Wheels Manufacturing 11-27 then?

Interesting... 10 speed? Campag compatible? Available in Australia, or able to be mail-ordered easily?

Cheers.
 
If you want to go totally custom and lightweight with all Ti cogs for racing, check these guys out: www.cycle-dynamics.com I'm sure they could make up almost any config one's heart could desire.

E-mail them with questions and they will get back to ya.