Campagnolo centaur ultrashift 10 speed (circa 2010) repair

Wondering if anyone can help me with problems with a right hand (rear mech) shifter. These are the Ultrashift type in the Centaur range that Campag stopped making a few years back when they were trying to push 11 speed.

I have dismantled the shifter and put it back together as per the Campagnolo official overhaul video but am unable to solve the problem.

BACKGROUND: There seemed to be one click too many when trying to get on the biggest sprocket and then the cable jammed and the shifters moved freely with no click. A tug on the cable below the boss on the downtube seemed to free it up and the shifter worked again, but did not reliably stay in the biggest sprocket. Other gears seemed to work reasonably well, but shifting was hesitant and unreliable.

ACTION: I have replaced inner and outer cables as well as dismantled and reassembled the shifter, cleaning all parts and regreasing. Parts seem all to be ok, but I'm guessing there is some wear that may be causing the problem. Shifting now seems a bit better, but the fundamental problem of that extra click and jam which led me to strip it all down in the first place remains.

Anyone encountered this particular problem who can help? Cheers.

 

i assume you did not replace the chain before the problem developed?

And I assume you are using the factory correct Campy cables for Centaur? It seems that particular model is extremely picky about using the correct Campy only cables, using any other cable will cause problems like you're experiencing and frustrated owners who tried different cables. I'm not real familiar with that model but there were some issues with the early models and I think there was a recall or a fix around, which you would have to contact Campy for details. And the early models of Centaur were so picky even the cable routing would throw them off, that would require the purchase of the next newer Centaur rear derailleur.

I thought the Campy service manual addressed those problems but I might be wrong.

Anyway here is a discussion about some of what I was eluding to and more: https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2056926286/3?

 

Test 1: Disconnect rear derailleur and make certain it operates freely across the shift range by hand. No stiffness or friction, just a smooth swing.
Test 2: Tension the disconnected cable with one hand and actuate the shift lever with the other. It must operate with no drag.

If the cable travels freely and the derailleur swings easily there is something going on with the guts of the shift mechanism.

Like Froze, I am not familiar with 10-speed Centaur, but there was one version with the G-spring and carrier and another version the used a different escapement. Campy gave up on it and the web says replacement parts are difficult to obtain. The G-spring version should, in theory at least, be re-buildable.

OP, do you have a link to the Campy rebuild video you watched?

 

This is the video. It's an 11 speed, but the internal components are almost identical to my 10 speed.

I didn't replace the chain as the problem is definitely in the lever. No chain or rear mech issue would cause an extra click I don't think. The chain is certainly within tolerances as I've recently checked it and the rear mech seems fine too. My guess is something worn in the shifting mechanism, and I was hoping someone would have experienced the exact same problem and know which part to replace.

 

The cables I've just used to replace the old ones are a non-Campag cross compatible, but the previous set was a certified Campag set so the problem isn't there. I didn't replace the chain which is still within wear tolerances.

Thanks

 

On the Downshift Lever side...the spring and ratchet pawl are wear items. Same with the Upshift Thumb Button. The Spring and ratchet plates are the details that are probably the most replaced.

Obviously, the correct parts and P/N's are needed and available from Campy's tech doc's support links if still available. Even if the parts have been discontinued, the larger national Campy dealers usually have them in stock or can source them from the importer.

Since you have had the lever completely disassembled for inspection and cleaning you might want to tear it down again to inspect the wear surfaces under magnification and also just to make certain you reassembled everything in the correct order and got all the small washers facing the correct direction.

Also, check the spring seat area of your lever body to make sure your spring is captured correctly and that the glass reinforced nylon body is intact and undamaged.

Did you lubricated the assemblies as they went back together? I use white Lithium grease on mine.

 

but the previous compag wire was worn thus the shifting started to act up, the shifting didn't do that when the Compag cable was new did it? No would be my assumption since it didn't come up for conversation earlier. If you can't find any problem with the shifter as CampyBob mentions then try a new set of Campag cables designed for that vintage of Centaur. Bike shops don't always know that a specific cable will work because they just go by compatibility. I run into this with cars, I get a part based on compatibility cross numbers and sometimes it doesn't work and the auto parts guys don't know either until someone returns with the part complaining it doesn't fit or work. And supposedly from what I read that issue about the cables was only for one year of Centaur, and if they don't get a lot of Campy into the store, and even less Centaur, then their experience with that is going to be very limited if any.

 

Hi Guys. The advice I've had from a Campagnolo Approved Service Centre is that there is a stopper inside the shell which has likely worn down over time with slight overshifting due to too much cable friction and a design flaw where the first click was almost indiscernible and would lead to mis-indexing. This is my training bike and it gets a lot of hammer, plus there's nothing to stop action past the point of the 9th click except this internal stopper, so if the engineer is right and the stopper has broken or worn down, then I can either replace the shell, drill a hole in the shell and insert a screw to replace the stopper, or replace the entire ergo mechanism.

In any case, I've got a number of options for a fix and spares are available. Thanks very much for your comments.

 

Interesting. Can you post a pic or a link to a pic of the worn down contact stop inside the lever body? I can see the worn stop jamming the downshift lever when going for the largest cassette gear. I'm assuming this is what is allowing the shift mechanism to 'go into neutral' and allow the cable to unwind and the chain to run outwards on the cassette?

I never knew there was an internal stop built into the lever body. Next time I have one of mine apart I'll have to look for it. Thanks for the heads up, Martin.