Campagnolo chain whip??



B

Barbara L

Guest
I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
capability.

Barb
 
In article <[email protected]>,
"Barbara L" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
> different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
> tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
> capability.
>
> Barb


No. Cogs are cogs, chains are chains, the pitches are all the same, and
there should be no problem.

I suppose a whip with a really wide chain might have trouble engaging a
10v cog, but in practice I suspect it's not an issue.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 
"Barbara L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:p[email protected]...
> I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
> different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
> tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
> capability.
>
> Barb
>
>


They make a difference between 8,9 and 10 speed, because the cogs are
spaced closer to each other in a 10 speed cluster. Using a chainwip with a
wider chain may damage the adjacent cogs. But if you use the chainwip on the
largest cog there is no problem.


Lou
 
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 07:23:42 -0700, "Barbara L" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
>different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
>tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
>capability.


Chain whips are pretty much universal. I have yet to encounter any
situation requiring a chain whip which could not be handled either by
the Park tool or my home-made one.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 18:17:35 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 07:23:42 -0700, "Barbara L" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
>>different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
>>tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
>>capability.

>
>Chain whips are pretty much universal. I have yet to encounter any
>situation requiring a chain whip which could not be handled either by
>the Park tool or my home-made one.



I had an old chain whip (perhaps from 6-speed days?) whose chain was
too wide to handle a 9-speed cassette -- at least on the smaller cogs
where I liked to use it. So I replaced the chain on the whip with
something narrower.

JT

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On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 18:17:35 GMT, Werehatrack
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 07:23:42 -0700, "Barbara L" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
>>different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
>>tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
>>capability.

>
>Chain whips are pretty much universal. I have yet to encounter any
>situation requiring a chain whip which could not be handled either by
>the Park tool or my home-made one.



I had an old chain whip (perhaps from 6-speed days?) whose chain was
too wide to handle a 9-speed cassette -- at least on the smaller cogs
where I liked to use it. So I replaced the chain on the whip with
something narrower.

JT

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On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 18:10:46 -0400, John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:

>
> I had an old chain whip (perhaps from 6-speed days?) whose chain was
> too wide to handle a 9-speed cassette -- at least on the smaller cogs
> where I liked to use it.


Why do you want to use the whip on the smaller cogs? I only have chain
whips with 1/8" chain, and have not had any problem. I wrap it around the
largest cog.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's hard to remember
_`\(,_ | that your initial objective was to drain the swamp. -- LBJ
(_)/ (_) |
 
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 20:35:08 -0400, "David L. Johnson"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 18:10:46 -0400, John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
>
>>
>> I had an old chain whip (perhaps from 6-speed days?) whose chain was
>> too wide to handle a 9-speed cassette -- at least on the smaller cogs
>> where I liked to use it.

>
>Why do you want to use the whip on the smaller cogs? I only have chain
>whips with 1/8" chain, and have not had any problem. I wrap it around the
>largest cog.


When I'm pushing hard on the whip and the lockring tool I find it more
secure if the two tools are near each other. Things seem to want to
get sideways if I put the tool on a large cog. I usually put it on
the second smallest cog.

JT

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Barbara L wrote:
> I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
> different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
> tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
> capability.
>
> Barb


No, use any chainwhip including a '8s' one. SR2 is fine.
 
Barbara L wrote:
> I know I need a different lockring tool fore campy but do I need to have a
> different chain whip tool as well. I am a bit confused. Will the SR2 Park
> tool work? I saw some post about making one but I don't have that
> capability.
>
> Barb
>
>

I use the one I made 30 years ago - with a big, wide Sedis 5-speed
chain. It has no trouble holding the cluster for pulling the ring.
 
John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
>
> When I'm pushing hard on the whip and the lockring tool I
> find it more secure if the two tools are near each other.


It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten
lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required
for removal. You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal
force goes through the lockring.

In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear fall
off, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips
at all (well, for lockrings at least).
 
On 15 Sep 2005 20:27:10 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>
>John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
>>
>> When I'm pushing hard on the whip and the lockring tool I
>> find it more secure if the two tools are near each other.

>
>It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten
>lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required
>for removal.


Are you saying you can remove a lockring without a special tool? With
what? You bare hands? An allen key? I don't get it.

>You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal
>force goes through the lockring.


Wow. You really just tighten it wih your fingers? That wouldn't work
for me. I can understand a recommendation to not put a lot of force
into the lockring tool, but no way could I get it tight enough with my
fingers. The thing would come loose.

>In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear fall
>off, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips
>at all (well, for lockrings at least).


I had a lockring come loose in a ride perhaps twice in that period of
time, and a saw it happen to another cyclist this past Sunday.

JT

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Something a bit OT... DIY chain whip: an old chain and a vice. Fix one end of
the chain in the vice and pass the other end of the chain around the cassette.
That's it, no hands, perfect hold. Works with all cassettes and costs nothing.

P.S. The chain should roll around the cassette in the right direction (opposite
to the torque of the extraction tool) to block it right.

Ciao,
--
Roberto Divia` Love at first sight is one of the greatest
Dep:pH Bat:53 Mailbox:C02110 labour-saving devices the world has ever seen
Route de Meyrin 385 ---------------------------------------------
Case Postale Phone: +41-22-767-4994
CH-1211 Geneve 23 CERN Fax: +41-22-767-9585
Switzerland E-Mail: [email protected]
 
"Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Something a bit OT... DIY chain whip: an old chain and a vice. Fix one end

of
> the chain in the vice and pass the other end of the chain around the

cassette.
> That's it, no hands, perfect hold. Works with all cassettes and costs

nothing.
>
> P.S. The chain should roll around the cassette in the right direction

(opposite
> to the torque of the extraction tool) to block it right.
>


I don't get it. How does this work with a lockring?

Lou
 
Lou Holtman wrote:
> "Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Something a bit OT... DIY chain whip: an old chain and a vice. Fix one end of
>>the chain in the vice and pass the other end of the chain around the cassette.
>>That's it, no hands, perfect hold. Works with all cassettes and costs nothing.
>>P.S. The chain should roll around the cassette in the right direction (opposite
>>to the torque of the extraction tool) to block it right.

>
> I don't get it. How does this work with a lockring?


Try, it's very easy. My vice is on the side of the table. I put the rim upright
on the table, pass the chain, insert the tool and unscrew the cassette.

If needed, I could try to post a picture...

Ciao,
--
Roberto Divia` Love at first sight is one of the greatest
Dep:pH Bat:53 Mailbox:C02110 labour-saving devices the world has ever seen
Route de Meyrin 385 ---------------------------------------------
Case Postale Phone: +41-22-767-4994
CH-1211 Geneve 23 CERN Fax: +41-22-767-9585
Switzerland E-Mail: [email protected]
 
"Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lou Holtman wrote:
> > "Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>Something a bit OT... DIY chain whip: an old chain and a vice. Fix one

end of
> >>the chain in the vice and pass the other end of the chain around the

cassette.
> >>That's it, no hands, perfect hold. Works with all cassettes and costs

nothing.
> >>P.S. The chain should roll around the cassette in the right direction

(opposite
> >>to the torque of the extraction tool) to block it right.

> >
> > I don't get it. How does this work with a lockring?

>
> Try, it's very easy. My vice is on the side of the table. I put the rim

upright
> on the table, pass the chain, insert the tool and unscrew the cassette.


Are you talking about an old freewheel or a cassette, where the cogs are on
a body closed by a lockring (= not a cog). When I'm trying to turn a cog
with a chain, it is freewheeling in one direction or the pawls are engaged
and I'm trying to turn the wheel in the other direction.

> If needed, I could try to post a picture...


please because I still don't get it.

Lou
 
Lou Holtman wrote:
> "Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Lou Holtman wrote:
>>
>>>"Roberto Divia" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>Something a bit OT... DIY chain whip: an old chain and a vice. Fix one

>
> end of
>
>>>>the chain in the vice and pass the other end of the chain around the

>
> cassette.
>
>>>>That's it, no hands, perfect hold. Works with all cassettes and costs

>
> nothing.
>
>>>>P.S. The chain should roll around the cassette in the right direction

>
> (opposite
>
>>>>to the torque of the extraction tool) to block it right.
>>>
>>>I don't get it. How does this work with a lockring?

>>
>>Try, it's very easy. My vice is on the side of the table. I put the rim

>
> upright
>
>>on the table, pass the chain, insert the tool and unscrew the cassette.

>
> Are you talking about an old freewheel or a cassette, where the cogs are on
> a body closed by a lockring (= not a cog). When I'm trying to turn a cog
> with a chain, it is freewheeling in one direction or the pawls are engaged
> and I'm trying to turn the wheel in the other direction.


My experience is with Shimano 900 and Ultegra and I used this method to remove
the cassette using an old chain and the special key from shimano (without whip).
The key engages inside the cassette while the chain keeps the cassette from
turning.

Ciao,
--
Roberto Divia` Love at first sight is one of the greatest
Dep:pH Bat:53 Mailbox:C02110 labour-saving devices the world has ever seen
Route de Meyrin 385 ---------------------------------------------
Case Postale Phone: +41-22-767-4994
CH-1211 Geneve 23 CERN Fax: +41-22-767-9585
Switzerland E-Mail: [email protected]
 
Roberto Divia wrote:

>>
>>
>> Are you talking about an old freewheel or a cassette, where the cogs
>> are on
>> a body closed by a lockring (= not a cog). When I'm trying to turn a cog
>> with a chain, it is freewheeling in one direction or the pawls are
>> engaged
>> and I'm trying to turn the wheel in the other direction.

>
>
> My experience is with Shimano 900 and Ultegra and I used this method to
> remove
> the cassette using an old chain and the special key from shimano
> (without whip).
> The key engages inside the cassette while the chain keeps the cassette from
> turning.



Ah now I get it. It's the same as using a chainwip. Chainwips are cheap
and last forever so I made the investment once 20 years ago ;-) and I
can take the chainwip with me when I am abroad.

Lou

--
Posted by news://news.nb.nu
 
In article <[email protected]>,
John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 15 Sep 2005 20:27:10 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >
> >John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
> >>
> >> When I'm pushing hard on the whip and the lockring tool I
> >> find it more secure if the two tools are near each other.

> >
> >It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten
> >lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required
> >for removal.

>
> Are you saying you can remove a lockring without a special tool? With
> what? You bare hands? An allen key? I don't get it.
>
> >You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal
> >force goes through the lockring.

>
> Wow. You really just tighten it wih your fingers? That wouldn't work
> for me. I can understand a recommendation to not put a lot of force
> into the lockring tool, but no way could I get it tight enough with my
> fingers. The thing would come loose.
>
> >In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear fall
> >off, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips
> >at all (well, for lockrings at least).

>
> I had a lockring come loose in a ride perhaps twice in that period of
> time, and a saw it happen to another cyclist this past Sunday.


I use the tool to turn the lock ring but use no wrench nor
chain whip; simply hand tighten. They come off the same
way.

--
Michael Press
 
"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 15 Sep 2005 20:27:10 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
>> >>
>> >> When I'm pushing hard on the whip and the lockring tool I
>> >> find it more secure if the two tools are near each other.
>> >
>> >It is rather perplexing that people feel the need to tighten
>> >lockrings with such force that such specialized tools are required
>> >for removal.

>>
>> Are you saying you can remove a lockring without a special tool? With
>> what? You bare hands? An allen key? I don't get it.
>>
>> >You only need to hand-tighten -- very little pedal
>> >force goes through the lockring.

>>
>> Wow. You really just tighten it wih your fingers? That wouldn't work
>> for me. I can understand a recommendation to not put a lot of force
>> into the lockring tool, but no way could I get it tight enough with my
>> fingers. The thing would come loose.
>>
>> >In the past 10 years of doing this, I have never had a gear fall
>> >off, or shifting issues. In most cases, I don't require chainwhips
>> >at all (well, for lockrings at least).

>>
>> I had a lockring come loose in a ride perhaps twice in that period of
>> time, and a saw it happen to another cyclist this past Sunday.

>
> I use the tool to turn the lock ring but use no wrench nor
> chain whip; simply hand tighten. They come off the same
> way.
>
> --
> Michael Press



Does this apply to Campy cassettes? I know on my Campy cassette I did not use a
torque wrench on the lock ring and it started to make noise after about 500
miles. When I tightened it to the Campy specs of 35 lbs. the noise immediately
stopped.

Neal