Campy chain - are they kidding?



R

Richard

Guest
Somehow, I ended up at the Campy site and read
instructions for the 10-spd chain. Besides their tool (I
do like the way it locks things into place!), the pin is
two-piece, and they claim the chain has a definite right
and left side. Furthermore, the chain must be installed by
pushing in the pin from beneath the BB. Finally, if you
remove the chain, you need to cut out 7 link pieces and
replace this string with their special 7-link section (and
two more 2-piece pins).

After reading all this, do they expect anyone except
professional team mechanics to buy their tool and chain and
go through this?
 
J

Jim Flom

Guest
Konex makes a perfectly good 10-speed chain for much less.
It also has a right and left side but is very easy to
install (no pin to push per se). I misinstalled it the first
time around and it shifted fine but left me with a bit of a
hop in the chain in the smallest cog until Peter Chisolm
suggested I reverse the master link.

Jim Flom

"richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Somehow, I ended up at the Campy site and read
> instructions for the 10-spd chain. Besides their tool (I
> do like the way it locks things into
place!),
> the pin is two-piece, and they claim the chain has a
> definite right and left side. Furthermore, the chain must
> be installed by pushing in the pin from beneath the BB.
> Finally, if you remove the chain, you need to cut
out
> 7 link pieces and replace this string with their special
> 7-link section (and two more 2-piece pins).
>
> After reading all this, do they expect anyone except
> professional team mechanics to buy their tool and chain
> and go through this?
 
A

Antti Salonen

Guest
Jim Flom <[email protected]> wrote:

> Konex makes a perfectly good 10-speed chain for much less.

That would be the "ConneX" chain by Wippermann.

-as
 
Q

Qui Si Parla Ca

Guest
richard-<< Besides their tool (I do like the way it locks
things into place!), the pin is two-piece, and they claim
the chain has a definite right and left side. Furthermore,
the chain must be installed by pushing in the pin from
beneath the BB. Finally, if you remove the chain, you need
to cut out 7 link pieces and replace this string with their
special 7-link section (and two more 2-piece pins).

After reading all this, do they expect anyone except
professional team mechanics to buy their tool and chain and
go through this? >><BR><BR>

Well in reality, you don't need the 'tool', just like you
didn't need the permalink tool(a chaintool and a dime worked
fine). Plus I'll bet that the 'teams' change chains more
than they clean them and if they do, i am sure they use a
snaplink, like the connex one.

For you-install the pin, when it comes to cleaning, buy a
snap link OR get a Connex chain to start with...

Use a well made chaintool, push the pin in straight. All
that is unique about the Campagnolo tool(I have one) is tht
it has little push thru gizmo that holds the plates stable
while you push the pin thru. It doubles as a really nice
chaintool.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
A

A Muzi

Guest
richard wrote:

> Somehow, I ended up at the Campy site and read
> instructions for the 10-spd chain. Besides their tool (I
> do like the way it locks things into place!), the pin is
> two-piece, and they claim the chain has a definite right
> and left side. Furthermore, the chain must be installed by
> pushing in the pin from beneath the BB. Finally, if you
> remove the chain, you need to cut out 7 link pieces and
> replace this string with their special 7-link section (and
> two more 2-piece pins).
>
> After reading all this, do they expect anyone except
> professional team mechanics to buy their tool and chain
> and go through this?

We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more than any
shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their chain at all.

I keep one each model in stock and sell under ten a year
over the counter.

We're building with KMC mostly and we love them. Nice
snaplink. We also use Wippermann and SRAM chain.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
A

Andrew Price

Guest
A Muzi wrote ...
> We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more
> than any shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their
> chain at all.
>
Agree the others are better but the real problem with
the Campy chain is the lousy link. Change to a Connex
and its a liveable solution - just make sure it goes on
the right way up.

best, Andrew (who didn't get to use his 11 until he learnt
which was up)
 
P

Paul Kopit

Guest
On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 07:54:38 GMT, "Andrew Price"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Change to a Connex and its a liveable solution - just make
>sure it goes on the right way up.

I've had good luck with the IRD 10sp chain which also comes
with a link. I use Shimano 9sp chain and Sram Powerlink II
and that works fine too.
 
A

Alex Rodriguez

Guest
In article
<[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...

>After reading all this, do they expect anyone except
>professional team mechanics to buy their tool and chain and
>go through this?

Of course not. They give it to them for free. It's nice
being sponsored.
-------------
Alex
 
A

A Muzi

Guest
> A Muzi wrote ...
>>We build a lot of Campagnolo equipped bikes - more
>>than any shop of my acquaintance. We don't use their
>>chain at all.

Andrew Price wrote:
> Agree the others are better but the real problem with
> the Campy chain is the lousy link. Change to a Connex
> and its a liveable solution - just make sure it goes on
> the right way up.

I have to say I don't understand Wippermann's instructions
about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog.

I mean, it is symmetric so what could change? In the same
vein, what's up with this?

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg

I really cannot understand what could make any difference
with the chain joint one way or the other

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971
 
J

Jim Flom

Guest
"A Muzi" wrote ...

> I really cannot understand what could make any difference
> with the chain joint one way or the other

That's why in my first post in this thread I had that bit of
hop in the chain until P. Chisholm (as explained above)
suggested I reverse the link. I had an 11-tooth cog on at
the time. Reversing the snaplink eliminated the hop.
 
J

Jeff Starr

Guest
A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

>
> I have to say I don't understand Wippermann's instructions
> about reversing the snaplink for use with an 11t cog.
>
> I mean, it is symmetric so what could change? In the same
> vein, what's up with this?
>
> http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg
>
> I really cannot understand what could make any difference
> with the chain joint one way or the other

Hi, maybe you could explain to me how to identify the
different link pins. The instructions that came with my DA
RD-7700-GS rear derailleur, include chain pin instructions.
It says: "The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place
where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or
an end pin."

Ok a reinforced connecting pin[rcp], is one of the
replacement pins. Another words, don't remove a pin in the
same place, more than once. But, what is an end pin? They
have an illustration, but it isn't clear, seeing as the rcp
is in the same position as an end pin would be. How do I
identify the link pins and the end pins?

I did just use one of the links that looked like most of the
rest. I did find the original rcp and avoided it. When my
LBS mechanic showed me how do install the chain, he only
mentioned not removing the same pin.

Here is a link to the instructions: http://bike.shimano.com-
/product_images/RD/si_images/RD_7700_SI.pdf

Thank you, Jeff
 
A

A Muzi

Guest
> "A Muzi" wrote ...
>>I really cannot understand what could make any difference
>>with the chain joint one way or the other

Jim Flom wrote:
> That's why in my first post in this thread I had that bit
> of hop in the chain until P. Chisholm (as explained above)
> suggested I reverse the link. I had an 11-tooth cog on at
> the time. Reversing the snaplink eliminated the hop.

I got a better look at the Wippermann. Any ideas on the
Shimano admonition?

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/shim10cn.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971