Campy Record noisey drive train



tomgaul

New Member
Sep 10, 2003
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I'm running Campy Record 10 and getting a lot of noise seems to be coming from the rear derailleur jockey wheels. I've been running this setup for about 3000 miles and the noise started 5-600 miles ago. I've been trying to adjust the indexing and all I do is screw up the shifting. If I get the shifting right the noise is greatest. I'm running 53/39 up front and either 11-21 or 12-23 out back both make the noise. I also purchased the Park Tools DAG (drop out alignment gauge) which seems to have helped some. I'm also a little anal about drive train noise and believe it should be silent and this bike has been.

1. Could the jockey wheels be worn this quick?
2. I've been thinking of taking it to a "Campy Pro Shop" but only one exists in Connecticut and don't know if Campy requires them to stay up to date on maintenance issues.
 
noisy drive train would be a common symptom of any derailleur bicycle - any good shop will be able to help you with it.

however, based on using two different cassettes, and your alignment tool (very good idea btw), your chain is probably worn. Normally a chain lasts 2500-5000 miles depending on how clean it is kept, riding style (shifting under pressure all the time, climbing all the time, pro level wattage), and the type of chain.

on the off chance that your chain is not worn, check your derailleur for alignment (not just the dropout). check 1a and 1b in what I just posted:

http://www.cyclingforums.com/t283542-campag-9-speed-probs.html

1a. from behind, pull down on the rear der cage until it is vertical (so the two pulleys are vertical anyway). usually derailleurs get bent inward. if you notice more than about a half of this tilt --> / then grab the lower cage and gently but firmly flex it outward about 1/2". it should pop back about 2-3 mm (1/16"?) more vertical.

1b. in the small small combination (for example, 39x12), the rear derailleur cage should be almost horizontal. does it point straight fore/aft or is it noticeably skewed one way? try tweaking it the other direction.

hope this helps
cdr
 
my campy drivetrains have always been slightly louder than my shimano drivetrains. A old Belguim bike mechanic told me it was normal and it was due to the mechanical feel/shift quality of campy, for example the shape of the teeth on the rear cassette cause more noise than the shape of the shimano cassette. I have never been able to get my campy as quiet, but damn it shifts well and feels amazing.
 
My experience has been the opposite my Campy has been silent compared to Shimano equiped bikes my own included. I to am anal about road noise so I relate. It can ruin an otherwise nice ride.
 
Rideastrong said:
my campy drivetrains have always been slightly louder than my shimano drivetrains. A old Belguim bike mechanic told me it was normal and it was due to the mechanical feel/shift quality of campy, for example the shape of the teeth on the rear cassette cause more noise than the shape of the shimano cassette. I have never been able to get my campy as quiet, but damn it shifts well and feels amazing.


I currently own five bikes, one being a mountain which is the only one out of five not equiped with a Campy drivetrain. All of these has been or is a quiet drive train, except for the mountain bike. I'm meticulous about cleaning, lubing and maintenance. I can't seem to ride a particular bike if there is noise, so I will normally have two bikes in rotation so maintenance doesn't stop me from riding. This particular bike is my favorite so getting this fixed is a high priority. My plan is to dig into this over the weekend and I'll let you alll know how it works out.
 
tomgaul said:
Thanks, I'll check it out and let you know.
Hey, I know this reply is very late, but whatever happen to the noisy campy. I have the 2007 campy record and the damn thing is very noisy.. My 2001 dura ace is super quiet compared to theis new campy. did you ever find the problem or did you just learnn to live with it?
 
Curb said:
Hey, I know this reply is very late, but whatever happen to the noisy campy. I have the 2007 campy record and the damn thing is very noisy.. My 2001 dura ace is super quiet compared to theis new campy. did you ever find the problem or did you just learnn to live with it?
I found it was my chain length. I was switching between two sets of wheels one with an 11-21 cassette and the other with 12-23. The 12-23 would make noise when in 22 or 23. I now run the 12-23 wheels on my Cannondale with a medium cage Veloce rear derailleur and no more noise on either one. I did also find that the Veloce derailleur and 12-23 are very susceptible to alignment. I was noise free on both bikes until I was hit by a car in Georgia on my Cannondale in March, not seriously hurt thank god, or the bike.
 
My 04 Record was not-so-silent. I replaced the jockeys (badly chewed up), the cassette and chain. Voila, silent drivetrain again. Record stuff should really be pretty quiet as long as everything is functioning properly and isn't too worn. Last year I was getting a ton of noise from a worn 39t chainring as well.
 
Thanks Tom, but my bike is new, only 800 miles on it. The noise in pretty much loud in 3 gears on the rear cassette. They store where I purchase the bike tried to adjustment but tells me it has to break in. I think thats bullsht. We are talking about a 9k bike! I wish I could do my own adjustments. I hate relying on some person who treats you like some doctor's office visit; in an out with out the issus solved.
Then the other problem is if you take it to other people, they may make it worse!


tomgaul said:
I found it was my chain length. I was switching between two sets of wheels one with an 11-21 cassette and the other with 12-23. The 12-23 would make noise when in 22 or 23. I now run the 12-23 wheels on my Cannondale with a medium cage Veloce rear derailleur and no more noise on either one. I did also find that the Veloce derailleur and 12-23 are very susceptible to alignment. I was noise free on both bikes until I was hit by a car in Georgia on my Cannondale in March, not seriously hurt thank god, or the bike.
 
Curb said:
Thanks Tom, but my bike is new, only 800 miles on it. The noise in pretty much loud in 3 gears on the rear cassette. They store where I purchase the bike tried to adjustment but tells me it has to break in. I think thats bullsht. We are talking about a 9k bike! I wish I could do my own adjustments. I hate relying on some person who treats you like some doctor's office visit; in an out with out the issus solved.
Then the other problem is if you take it to other people, they may make it worse!


Doing your own adjustments is easier than you think. Treat yourself to a good work stand and consult the park tools website. I would never trust any of my bikes to a shop...
 
Breaking in components? In terms of the mechanics of a bike, this statement makes no sense. Components are manufactured to be as ideally "broken in" as possible when new. As a mechanic, whenever I here someone say "It just needs to break in," I know what they really mean is "Dude, I have no idea how to fix it, so just learn to live with it." I always see these situations as challenges to increase my aptitude and diagnostic skills. There're so many little noises people complain about. It's amazing. -FTU
 
I agree FTU, my dura ace was quite for the very start and still is. But this campy BS is over rated. Campy only looks nice, and that's it. if dura made the same look and style, i would get ride of this campy.

but what's your point in your last sentence? are you saying that when someone spends $4-$5 K on somethjing and it's manufactured correctly, one should live with it?


FasterthanU said:
Breaking in components? In terms of the mechanics of a bike, this statement makes no sense. Components are manufactured to be as ideally "broken in" as possible when new. As a mechanic, whenever I here someone say "It just needs to break in," I know what they really mean is "Dude, I have no idea how to fix it, so just learn to live with it." I always see these situations as challenges to increase my aptitude and diagnostic skills. There're so many little noises people complain about. It's amazing. -FTU
 
Curb said:
I agree FTU, my dura ace was quite for the very start and still is. But this campy BS is over rated. Campy only looks nice, and that's it. if dura made the same look and style, i would get ride of this campy.

These statements are complete BS. If you or anyone else can't get Campy to run quietly, then you or that someone else is doing something wrong. Tuning a Campy drivetrain is just as easy as tuning any Shimano stuff. Anyone that says otherwise or thinks Campy is inherently noisier is either trying to sell something or doesn't know what they're doing.

I've owned both, and both brands have run quietly.
 
tomgaul said:
I'm running Campy Record 10 and getting a lot of noise seems to be coming from the rear derailleur jockey wheels. I've been running this setup for about 3000 miles and the noise started 5-600 miles ago. I've been trying to adjust the indexing and all I do is screw up the shifting. If I get the shifting right the noise is greatest. I'm running 53/39 up front and either 11-21 or 12-23 out back both make the noise. I also purchased the Park Tools DAG (drop out alignment gauge) which seems to have helped some. I'm also a little anal about drive train noise and believe it should be silent and this bike has been.

1. Could the jockey wheels be worn this quick?
2. I've been thinking of taking it to a "Campy Pro Shop" but only one exists in Connecticut and don't know if Campy requires them to stay up to date on maintenance issues.

Campagnolo Ultra chain? That is, the 5.9mm one? It was quieter than the 6.2 one. Also quieter than 5.9 wippermans.
 
Curb said:
I agree FTU, my dura ace was quite for the very start and still is. But this campy BS is over rated. Campy only looks nice, and that's it. if dura made the same look and style, i would get ride of this campy.

but what's your point in your last sentence? are you saying that when someone spends $4-$5 K on somethjing and it's manufactured correctly, one should live with it?

My biggest beef with shimano has always been the non servicability of the levers. I have warrantied dozens, replaced many that just give up. At least I can take a ERGO lever apart and fix it.

But both groups do the same thing, just a little differently. Sram being the least functional, followed by shimano with the 2 top groups of Campagnolo being the most functional in terms of gear selection and triple compatibility.

BUT we tell people choose the group that your hand likes the most. If no difference, choose Campagnolo because of the lever maintainability.
 
Although I have not done it yet, I'll bet you if I put some of that dirty PROLink Chain Lube on my Campy chain it will quite it down. ProLink is good lube but that stuff is messy and dirty after a couple of rides, even when you put on a little. Anyone agree?


Peter@vecchios said:
Campagnolo Ultra chain? That is, the 5.9mm one? It was quieter than the 6.2 one. Also quieter than 5.9 wippermans.
 
Curb said:
Although I have not done it yet, I'll bet you if I put some of that dirty PROLink Chain Lube on my Campy chain it will quite it down. ProLink is good lube but that stuff is messy and dirty after a couple of rides, even when you put on a little. Anyone agree?

Nope: I don't agree. I've been using ProLink for about 4 years, and I've never found it to be messy. I guess if you don't wipe off the excess after application it could get messy, but you're supposed to wipe off the excess. As for dirty, when you ride on the road, things get dirty. A sparkling chain is found on a bike that isn't ridden enough. Besides, I don't care if the lube gets dark. My chain gets oiled about every 100 miles or so, and I get great life out of chains. No one pays attention to the chain, anyway, when the wheels are turning.
 
Curb said:
Although I have not done it yet, I'll bet you if I put some of that dirty PROLink Chain Lube on my Campy chain it will quite it down. ProLink is good lube but that stuff is messy and dirty after a couple of rides, even when you put on a little. Anyone agree?

Don't agree. It is if you put it on and go ride immediately. It is a dry lube that needs to dry. Apply little(little goes a long way) and rotate the chain thru a rag to get rid of excess, let dry overnite, go ride.
 
OH Come on now. Are we talking about the same product here. I've use the stuff for over a year and put a dab of it on the chain rub it clean and after about two rides, the side of my leg and socks are cover in black from hitting the crank a little.
Now dont get me wrong, this is very good lubricant but it's messy.
Well, to each his own.

Somehow I got off the track for noisy campy.

I forgot to ask another question. When I am riding in couple of gears and they're noisy, if i lightly press on the upshift lever on the campy i can kind of get that particular gear quiet.

Question is, is the campy record design to be shimmed with the up shift lever to get it positioned fully in that particular gear that's making noise, or is the campy stuff design to drop perfectly in all it's gears and not make that noise as if it's not seated properly in some of it cassette gears?

I hope I am clear on this.


Peter@vecchios said:
Don't agree. It is if you put it on and go ride immediately. It is a dry lube that needs to dry. Apply little(little goes a long way) and rotate the chain thru a rag to get rid of excess, let dry overnite, go ride.