Campy Record Rear Shifting Problems - Please help



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Stefano Maranza

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Hello,

I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The front end shifts perfectly, but I
am having trouble fine tuning my rear derailleur and ergo shifter.

No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift up to a larger gear
smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower gear works great and is very smooth. Here are some
symptoms that might help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear, there is almost no tension on
the lever, but it does shift up (is this normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I shift up three gears, it will
go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the
third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it doesn't shift
up reliably.

- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one gear where it does shift
and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a shift.

A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear derailleur are fine. I am
using campagnolo cable housing except for the chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am not
using a super high quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't know what
else it could be.

I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that I am considering
converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or recommendations would be great since I don't want
to make the switch.

Thanks!
 
Originally posted by Stefano Maranza
- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one gear where it does shift
and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a shift.


Just to clarify, when you say "shifting up" do you mean going to larger cogs on the cassette?

I've got Dura Ace and have not worked on mikes w/ Campy stuff so this is a guess. The symptom you mention makes it sound like either 1) you need to adjust the rear derailuer stop a bit to allow for slightly more cable travel, or 2) when you're in the smallest cog, your shift lever is actually in the 2nd position and not the first so you run out of "notches/index spots" to get to the last cog. To make sure it's not the second, press your shift lever a couple of extra times while physically pulling on the cable just to make sure the shifter internals are in the first position, so to speak.

You could also try lubing the inside of your cable housings. I usually use a dry lube like White Lightning or Pedro's Ice Wax and drip a drop at a time into the housing. This could help if it's a cable/housing friction thing.
 
Stefano Maranzana wrote:

> I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The front end shifts perfectly, but
> I am having trouble fine tuning my rear derailleur and ergo shifter.
>
> No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift up to a larger gear
> smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower gear works great and is very smooth. Here are some
> symptoms that might help diagnose the problem.
>
> - When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear, there is almost no tension
> on the lever, but it does shift up (is this normal?)
>
> - When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I shift up three gears, it
> will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down
> to the third gear.

Your message is very confusing, because you seem confused about "up" vs "down." In the rear, the
larger sprockets are _lower_ gears, and shifting to a larger sprocket is _down_shifting (also, the
derailer physically moves downward in making such shifts.)

> - When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it doesn't shift up
> reliably.
>
> - As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one gear where it does
> shift and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a shift.
>
> A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear derailleur are fine.

Those adjustments have nothing to do with shifting performance as such, they only limit the total
distance the derailer can move.

> I am using campagnolo cable housing except for the chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am
> not using a super high quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't know what
> else it could be.
>
> I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that I am considering
> converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or recommendations would be great since I don't
> want to make the switch.

That would be a silly wast of money, there's no significant difference in shifting quality between
these. Your problem is certainly the result of either misadjustment, misalignment or cable friction.
I'm voting for cable friction.

I have two articles that could help you with this:

http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

Sheldon "Not A Campagnolo-Specific Problem" Brown
+---------------------------------------------------+
| In theory, there's no difference between theory | and practice; but, in practice, there is. |
+---------------------------------------------------+, Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
 
Originally posted by Stefano Maranza
Hello,

I'm having problems with my Campagnolo Record 10-speed setup. The front end shifts perfectly, but I
am having trouble fine tuning my rear derailleur and ergo shifter.

No matter how long I tweak the adjustments, I just can't get it to shift up to a larger gear
smoothly and consistently. Shifting to a lower gear works great and is very smooth. Here are some
symptoms that might help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear, there is almost no tension on
the lever, but it does shift up (is this normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I shift up three gears, it will
go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the
third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it doesn't shift
up reliably.

- As I shift up through the gears, it clicks at each shift, except for one gear where it does shift
and hold, but it doesn't click to indicate a shift.

A couple details on my set-up. My high-low adjustments on my rear derailleur are fine. I am
using campagnolo cable housing except for the chain stay - rear derailleur length, and I am not
using a super high quality cable. Will changing these out cure the problem? I don't know what
else it could be.

I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that I am considering
converting to Dura Ace. Any ideas, suggestions or recommendations would be great since I don't want
to make the switch.

Thanks!

Take a look at Sheldon Brown's web site at URL:
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
Cable to cable housing friction is likely cause.
Clean and smooth cable housing ends well seated into the housing caps is very important.
I use a Dremmel tool with a "cut-off wheel" to get the smooth and flat end that you see in Sheldon's "good" picture.
One everything is connected I make sure the cable housing caps are well seated by firmly pulling the cable away from the downtube at a point between the bottom braket and the frame attachment.
Make sure you are following all the Campy rear derailer instructions for set-up and adjustment, including where the cable is attached to the Rear Derailer.
 
maranz-<< Here are some symptoms that might help diagnose the problem.

- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear, there is almost no tension on
the lever, but it does shift up (is this normal?)

- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I shift up three gears, it will
go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the
third gear.

- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it doesn't shift
up reliably.
>><BR><BR>

Lots snipped...Sounds like you have a busted EC-RE-111, and also a shift spring that needs to
be replaced..a good LBS that 'qui si parla Campagnolo' can do all this.if no-send it to me and
I'll do it..

maranz-<< I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that I am considering
converting to Dura Ace >><BR><BR>

right and when the right lever goes south, jus replace it..for about $200...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
Thanks for all the advice. I would love for it to be as simple as cable friction, but it I think
Peter might have the right answer. I'll let you know what the problem was once it's fixed. Thanks
again. This group is a great resource!

Steve

In article <[email protected]>, Qui si parla Campagnolo
<[email protected]> wrote:
>maranz-<< Here are some symptoms that might help diagnose the problem.
>
>- When I am in the smallest cog and shift up to the next biggest gear, there is almost no tension
> on the lever, but it does shift up (is this normal?)
>
>- When I increase the cable tension to where it shift up well, when I shift up three gears, it will
> go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down to the
> third gear.
>
>- When I decrease the cable tension to where it will no longer do this, it doesn't shift up
> reliably.
> >><BR><BR>
>
>Lots snipped...Sounds like you have a busted EC-RE-111, and also a shift spring that needs to
>be replaced..a good LBS that 'qui si parla Campagnolo' can do all this.if no-send it to me and
>I'll do it..
>
>maranz-<< I really love my Campy gear, but with all this hassle, I have to say that I am
>considering converting to Dura Ace >><BR><BR>
>
>right and when the right lever goes south, jus replace it..for about $200...
>
>
>Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
>(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 9:52:44 -0700, Stefano Maranzana wrote

> it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back down
> to the third gear.

My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a number of bike mechanics, I've
come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting works.

If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution.

- Jerry
 
Jerry Gardner <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 9:52:44 -0700, Stefano Maranzana wrote
>
> > it will go past the 3rd gear to the fourth gear until I let go of the lever when it goes back
> > down to the third gear.
>
> My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a number of bike mechanics,
> I've come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting works.
>
> If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution.
>
> - Jerry

This is NOT how Campy rear shifting works. Any wrench who tells you that is a wrench to be avoided.

App
 
Jerry-<< My 10-speed Chorus setup does this, and after discussing this with a number of bike
mechanics, I've come to conclude that this is how Campy rear shifting works.

If you hear otherwise, I'd love to know the solution. >><BR><BR>

See my post. In our experience with 10s, the problem described is not normal and is not with the
stuff we set up...shouldn't be for your either-

Maybe better wrenches? Or perhaps a broken EC-RE-111??Easy to check, take the lever off, take the
black plastic cap off the back and you will see the end of the post oif the EXC-RE-111..If it's
loose like a loose tooth, it's busted...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
My opinion is your cable is too slack. It (cable housing) probably wasn't seated correctly and then
you apply the tension to shift. Loosen the anchor and use pliers to pull the cable tight. Make sure
you at at the smallest cog.
 
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