Can I put my D/A 9 rear wheel on my D/A 10 bike?

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by DanP, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. DanP

    DanP New Member

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    Looking to test the wheels that are on my road bike (D/A 9) with my new tri bike (D/A 10).

    Can I get away with just slapping the complete rear wheel & 9 cog cassette into the Tri bike, or do I absolutely need to install the 10 spd cassette?

    I do have the tools but I suck at this so trying to take the quicker road, which would also allow me to change wheels more often.

    Thought I could get away with it because of the Tri bike being non-STI, but then again I'm really ignorant in this area.

    So, can I do this?
     
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  2. boudreaux

    boudreaux New Member

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    9 speed spacing is 4.34,and 10 is 3.95. I'd do it right and switch the casette.
     
  3. capwater

    capwater New Member

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    Come on, take the challenge! It really ain't too tough....
     
  4. Weisse Luft

    Weisse Luft New Member

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    Depends on what 7800 cassette you use and what model of DA wheels you have but in most cases, you can.

    From Shimano:

     
  5. DanP

    DanP New Member

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    Hmm, maybe I should clarify:

    * My road bike has Ksyrium SL wheels with a D/A 9, 12/25 cassette
    * My Tri bike has Velomax Vista wheels with D/A 10, 12/23 cassette

    Probably extremely basic questions but help me understand:

    I assume that at the hub the width of both wheels with cassettes is identical, so it is not a fit issue.

    So if I put the Ksyrium D/A 9 onto my Tri bike, where is the trouble spot?

    * Is it the chain length, or rear derailer (sp?) tolerance?

    * Is it that the non-STI shifter can't manage the different spacing, and if so why, isn't this a simple linear shifter?

    * Something else?

    Thanks!
     
  6. PeterF

    PeterF New Member

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    Just some thoughts. The 10 speed cassette will work with the 9 speed hub but not vice versa (the spline depth of the 9 cassette won't work on the 10 free hub, or so I'm told). I swap cassettes all the time and it literally takes about 2 minutes as long as you have the proper cassette tool and a chain whip. Plus, its good to keep the same chain and cassette in sync. A new chain works fine with a used cassette but an older chain can wear a new cassette prematurely. Good luck.
    Pete
    :cool:
     
  7. e_guevara

    e_guevara New Member

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    It's not a matter of being STI or not - it's the COG SPACING that matters. Indexing systems move the RD by a defined distance DEPENDING ON THE NUMBER OF REAR COGS per 'click'. Moving the bar-ends on your tri bike by one 'click' moves the RD (chain) by 3.95mm, 0.4mm short of the next cog on a 9s. Do the math...
     
  8. DanP

    DanP New Member

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    Thanks, that helps. This is my fundamental confusion:

    I thought that STI was indexed, and the non-STI levers were NOT indexed and were more of a linear / analog cable pull, with the rider having the responsibility of stopping the lever at the right spot.

    Is this not the case?
     
  9. boudreaux

    boudreaux New Member

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    The tri bike shifters have clicks in them ....RIGHT?? Therefore, it's indexed just like STI. The Shimano Shifters like on the tri bike also have a selectable FRICTION mode. Use the FRICTION mode!! Problem solved.
     
  10. DanP

    DanP New Member

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    Thanks Boudreaux!

    Let me push my luck here: how does one change to friction mode?

    I'll go to the Shimano site to see if they have an online ref...
     
  11. boudreaux

    boudreaux New Member

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    Outside of the rear shifter.'D' ring. Turn it to friction position.
     
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