Cannondale CAADX Sora? Tiagra? 105?



uffstuffson

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Aug 1, 2013
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I'm just trying to get into riding and have decided that I would like to get one of the Cannondale CAADX bikes. I was told by a few people that I shouldn't even mess around with the Sora or Tiagra and should just go straight for the 105. I am extremely new to cycling but would like to get a bike that I won't outgrow quickly. I'd like it to last a number of years. I will mainly be doing road riding but would like the option to go offroad and try some cyclocross tracks. I have asked the question "what is the big difference between the three" and all I get as an answer is 'quality.' I realize the 105 is a better group than the other two and I'm willing to pay the extra money if it is worth it but what really makes it so much better? Is it faster? faster/smoother shifting? Less problems? I'd really like to know what I'm getting if I end up spending that kind of money. Maybe I am over purchasing for what I want, which I have a bad/good habit of. Buyers remorse is one of the worst feelings in the world in my opinion lol. But I also don't want to spend the extra few hundred if it will be a waste. Opinions? Tech facts? I'm open to any criticism or helpful advice! Thanks everyone!
 
considering what you wrote at the end of your post i would go with Tiagra, but if you plan to sell your bike if you don't get to like cycling then 105 would make for a better reselling price,
 
Is there anything I would notice different while riding a Tiagra or sora compared to the 105?
 
no because you are new to cycling so what you choose will be your benchmark for the future, i do think Sora on that amazing CAADX is a bit mismatched, Sora would come in a 500 to 800 bike normally, and its a 9 speed rig as opposed to the other two options that have 10 speeds
 
I suppose I should have asked what a seasoned cyclist notices different when riding a Tiagra vs a 105? That is a really good point about it being a benchmark.
 
I also read that you can't shift while riding in the drops with the sora? I didn't ever get a clear answer about what that meant. Is it you just can't reach to shift while your hands are in the lower drops? Is the hand mechanism different for the sora than Tiagra and 105?
 
uffstuffson said:
I also read that you can't shift while riding in the drops with the sora? I didn't ever get a clear answer about what that meant. Is it you just can't reach to shift while your hands are in the lower drops? Is the hand mechanism different for the sora than Tiagra and 105?
Yup. Old Sora used a thumb lever for upshifts. New Sora shifts just like the rest of Shimano's integrated shifters for road bikes.
 
alienator said:
Yup. Old Sora used a thumb lever for upshifts. New Sora shifts just like the rest of Shimano's integrated shifters for road bikes.
Awesome thank you for the explanation. I had read it a few times but no one ever answered me lol.
 
If the difference is several hundred, then depending on the rest of the bike, I might be inclined to simply get the less expensive bike with the intention of using the difference for DIY upgrades of one-sort-or-another ...

If the difference is only $100 due to heavy discounting at the end of the shopping season, then choose the bike which has 105 components.
 
Also take a look at the wheelset that is on each version of the bike. Usually there is a break point around $600-800 and again around $1,20-1,500 (retail) that includes a rim/hub or wheelset upgrade. If there is a difference, factor that into your decision. Upgrading wheels after the fact will run $500+ (or much more) at retail, depending on what you want. A lighter/stronger rim, smoother rolling hub (bearings), or good quality spokes can make a difference in the ride quality of a bike.

Again, these are things that you have no real reference point for, so just something to consider as you demo different bikes. Like the groupset, in a trade up scenario a "bottom-tier" wheelset could be your wheelset for life. That may be a good thing in that you have a beater set for bad conditions .. or it could be a bad thing if you need to recoup some equity in the wheelset to fund an upgrade. Bottom line ... what you want to avoid is jumping into the "upgrade game" immediately after you buy a bike.

Enjoy the search and have fun riding!