Cannot get Powertap....now what?

[phazer]

I ride on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels and love them...but they cannot take a powertap SL hub...SRM is too expensive, iBike...mmh...still don't trust it, Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...so, what's left? Anyone got any ideas what a good power meter would be for me?

 

[Roadie_scum]

I ride on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels and love them...but they cannot take a powertap SL hub...SRM is too expensive, iBike...mmh...still don't trust it, Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...so, what's left? Anyone got any ideas what a good power meter would be for me?

Get a powertap on a Mavic Open Pro or similar, 32 spoke. Switch to your Ksyriums to race. Easy.

The Open Pro will be just as stiff and strong and last as long, it will just weigh more and who cares about that for training. If you decide you want race data, you are stuck buying another wheel, but it seems like that's the best answer.

 

[sugaken]

I ride on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels and love them...but they cannot take a powertap SL hub...SRM is too expensive, iBike...mmh...still don't trust it, Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...so, what's left? Anyone got any ideas what a good power meter would be for me?

How about an Ergomo Pro? I hear it's in about the same price range as PT SL.
http://www.ergomo.net/ergomo-pro-_180.html

 

[ric_stern/RST]

I ride on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels and love them...but they cannot take a powertap SL hub...SRM is too expensive, iBike...mmh...still don't trust it, Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...so, what's left? Anyone got any ideas what a good power meter would be for me?

How about lacing a PT SL to something like some CXP33 with CX Ray spokes and getting a matching (SL) front wheel. It's not like the Kysriums are a decent race wheel (not particularly aero, or light)

ric

 

[Ironmax]

I'll second the vote for an Ergomo Pro. I'm on mine now for 5 weeks and it works great. Bottom bracket measurements so you can swap race and training wheels without a problem.

 

[peterwright]

How about lacing a PT SL to something like some CXP33 with CX Ray spokes and getting a matching (SL) front wheel. It's not like the Kysriums are a decent race wheel (not particularly aero, or light)

ric

Agreed - just lose the Ksyriums and get the best rear build you can afford - DT Swiss R1.1 works well as a wheel you can train and race on (this is a must IMO)

 

[ric_stern/RST]

Agreed - just lose the Ksyriums and get the best rear build you can afford - DT Swiss R1.1 works well as a wheel you can train and race on (this is a must IMO)

Yup, racing them and getting that data is all important.

ric

 

[Tom Anhalt]

Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...

IMO you heard wrong.

That said...here's a good test. If you would typically have a bike shop install your bike computer, don't bother with the Polar. If that's something you'd normally tackle, there's nothing to be afraid of.

The new CS600 with updated wireless (mostly) power module will be out shortly for a grand total of ~$700.

Just my 2 pesos.

Tom

 

[Hookyrider]

How about lacing a PT SL to something like some CXP33 with CX Ray spokes and getting a matching (SL) front wheel. It's not like the Kysriums are a decent race wheel (not particularly aero, or light)
ric

Ric - you mention my exact setup, probably like a few other folks' as well. I gave up some "fancy wheels" to make way for the PT/SL. Since the PT/SL is so shiny I had some black CXP33's laced up with some ultra shiny double butted Hoshi’s, I picked up a polished sliver Chris King front hub, and have been pleased with the whole set up. Certainly it’s possible to put together a lighter combo, but why bother?



HR

 

[ric_stern/RST]

Ric - you mention my exact setup, probably like a few other folks' as well. I gave up some "fancy wheels" to make way for the PT/SL. Since the PT/SL is so shiny I had some black CXP33's laced up with some ultra shiny double butted Hoshi’s, I picked up a polished sliver Chris King front hub, and have been pleased with the whole set up. Certainly it’s possible to put together a lighter combo, but why bother?



HR

all you need is a matching front hub/wheel . I use the CXP33s as well.

ric

 

[sogood]

As flagged on another thread in this forum, iBike may just be the next hot power meter at a fantastic price. Supposedly it's very accurate and is as convenient to switch b/n bikes as a cyclo-computer. And in early next year, they are supposedly bringing out a unit with cadence and HR monitoring included. Hot!

 

[ric_stern/RST]

As flagged on another thread in this forum, iBike may just be the next hot power meter at a fantastic price. Supposedly it's very accurate and is as convenient to switch b/n bikes as a cyclo-computer. And in early next year, they are supposedly bringing out a unit with cadence and HR monitoring included. Hot!

but isn't there a *major* shortcoming... you can't use it on a trainer... (and some other issues)

ric

 

[sogood]

but isn't there a *major* shortcoming... you can't use it on a trainer... (and some other issues)

I don't know. Alienator is the source of knowledge on this in the other thread. But hey, for the asking price, it's fantastic even with the shortcoming.

 

[jetnjeff]

I don't know. Alienator is the source of knowledge on this in the other thread. But hey, for the asking price, it's fantastic even with the shortcoming.

It is great if you never change your coeficient of drag (frontal Area) by switching form the drops to the tops or draft someone.

And of course the trainer thing, won't work if you are not moving throught the wind.

 

[sogood]

It is great if you never change your coeficient of drag (frontal Area) by switching form the drops to the tops or draft someone.

And of course the trainer thing, won't work if you are not moving throught the wind.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's more sophisticated than that. It has a number of sensors including accelerometers/wheel speed/pitch etc and it's amazing what digital processing can do these days. I would wait for the test report.

 

[ric_stern/RST]

I wouldn't be surprised if it's more sophisticated than that. It has a number of sensors including accelerometers/wheel speed/pitch etc and it's amazing what digital processing can do these days. I would wait for the test report.

It *can't* do either of these things, as i mentioned previously

ric

 

[jmocallaghan]

I ride on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels and love them...but they cannot take a powertap SL hub...SRM is too expensive, iBike...mmh...still don't trust it, Polar is too much of a hassle setting up from what I heard...so, what's left? Anyone got any ideas what a good power meter would be for me?

The Polar is pretty easy to set up honestly. I can generally do it in about 1/2 an hr, 45 minutes if I want to be suave and sophisticated and hide all the cables. Likewise, Polar is due out a new model coming up this spring which is a refined cyclocomputer and power meter which will give you better 1sec and 5sec views over the current watch. Polar works great when you're swapping wheels.

 

[JTE83]

The Polar is not a hassle to install. Well, but you need something to measure the weight of the chain in grams accurately. And then you should glue a neodynium magnet to the right pedal shaft for the cadence magnet. Then mount the speed sensor downwards.

I'm gonna get the new Polar meter instead of the ergomo pro because the ergomo pro only measures the left leg then doubles it. May have gotton the ergomo if it was $1150 though. At $1600 it's a bit expensive.

 

[RapDaddyo]

iBike may just be the next hot power meter at a fantastic price. Supposedly it's very accurate

I'm not sure about the accuracy bit. I haven't ridden with one yet, but on a team ride a few days ago a guy with an iBike compared numbers with me on a climb (twice). Conditions should have been perfect for the iBike. The road was a fairly steady climb ~6% the first time we compared numbers and ~8% the second time, wind was light and variable. We were riding side by side so there was no issue with drafting. The rider is a bike shop owner and he had done all of the recommended calibrations, etc. I was riding my PT SL, which is regularly zero torqued. His weight was within 3 lbs of my weight. The first time he asked me I was doing 340W and the iBike said 235W. The second time I was doing ~395W and the iBike said 295W. Granted, this is just two comparisons but it doesn't give me much confidence in the iBike's accuracy. I'm not trashing the iBike, simply reporting a pretty significant discrepancy between what it said and my PT SL. If it had been within a few watts, I would be happy to report that as well. But, it wasn't.

 

[sogood]

I'm not sure about the accuracy bit...

Yes, that is a concern. There seemed to be a range of reports on the accuracy of this product which may well be related to the firmware version. I continue to take the watch and see attitude on it. The big advantage of course is its price and portability, which may also relate to its inaccuracy.