Cantilever brake blocks



R

Rob

Guest
Could anyone recommend some brake clocks for my oldish MTB cantilever
brakes pls?

I note Sheldon recommends Kool Stop Salmon - but I can't find these in
the UK. In fact cantilever blocks seem quite thin on the ground all
round. The brakes are Shimano Deore LX with threaded stud and I think
plain washer blocks. Sheldon calls them centre pull (traditional)
cantilever btw, :

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html

Thanks, Rob
 
Rob wrote:
> Could anyone recommend some brake clocks for my oldish MTB cantilever
> brakes pls?
>
> I note Sheldon recommends Kool Stop Salmon - but I can't find these in
> the UK. In fact cantilever blocks seem quite thin on the ground all
> round. The brakes are Shimano Deore LX with threaded stud and I think
> plain washer blocks. Sheldon calls them centre pull (traditional)
> cantilever btw, :
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html
>
> Thanks, Rob



Rob,

I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I
can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I
am sure they will send you some.

Personally I use Fibrax and find them OK.

Sam Salt
 
On 2007-07-15, Tony Raven <[email protected]> wrote:
> Sam Salt wrote:
>>
>> Rob,
>>
>> I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I
>> can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I
>> am sure they will send you some.
>>
>> Personally I use Fibrax and find them OK.
>>
>> Sam Salt

>
> Wiggle list them on their site
> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDeta...00003397&N=Kool Stop Eagle II Pair Of Inserts
>
>
> Tony


Beat me to it!

They're in stock too (or at least they were last week when I got some).
--
Jon
____________________________________________
jondotrogersatntlworlddotcom
============================================
 
Jon Rogers wrote:
> On 2007-07-15, Tony Raven <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Sam Salt wrote:
>>> Rob,
>>>
>>> I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I
>>> can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I
>>> am sure they will send you some.
>>>
>>> Personally I use Fibrax and find them OK.
>>>
>>> Sam Salt

>> Wiggle list them on their site
>> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDeta...00003397&N=Kool Stop Eagle II Pair Of Inserts
>>
>>
>> Tony

>
> Beat me to it!
>
> They're in stock too (or at least they were last week when I got some).


Thanks all - I did look on the wiggle site but left dazed and confused.
This is mine:

http://patchoulian.googlepages.com/things

I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy
some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called
them 'threaded' and 'canti'.

Rob
 
On 15/07/2007 18:24, Rob said,

> I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy
> some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called
> them 'threaded' and 'canti'.


If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various
washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were
originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis. It does
seem to have all got mixed up now though, and when I replaced the
shockingly short-lived Shimano blocks on the V-brakes on my commuter, I
was also confused for a while!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/
 
In article <[email protected]>, Paul Boyd
[email protected]lid says...

> If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various
> washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were
> originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.


ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar
plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
 
Rob Morley said the following on 16/07/2007 08:00:

> ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar
> plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?


U-brakes! I hope they've been consigned to the dustbin of history! Now
you mention it, I do vaguely remember that these had threaded blocks.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/
 
In article <[email protected]>, Paul
Boyd
usenet.dont.work@plusnet says...
> Rob Morley said the following on 16/07/2007 08:00:
>
> > ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar
> > plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?

>
> U-brakes! I hope they've been consigned to the dustbin of history! Now
> you mention it, I do vaguely remember that these had threaded blocks.
>
>

U-brakes are still used on some BMX freestyle bikes - I don't think
there's anything wrong with the basic design concept, but mounting them
on ATB chainstays probably wasn't the smartest move. Saracen used to do
a nice bike with U-brakes both ends, the rear had a mono seat stay.
 
Rob Morley wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Paul Boyd
> [email protected]lid says...
>
>> If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various
>> washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were
>> originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.

>
> ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or
> similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come
> first?


Possibly true in Shimano-land, and I don't know how old those nasty brakes
would be.


Outside of Shimano-land, my circa 1990 Suntour cantilevers take a threaded
block.
I now use the fairly standardised V-brake type a replacements.



- Nigel


--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/
 
In article <[email protected]>, Nigel Cliffe
[email protected] says...
> Rob Morley wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>, Paul Boyd
> > [email protected]lid says...
> >
> >> If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various
> >> washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were
> >> originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.

> >
> > ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or
> > similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come
> > first?

>
> Possibly true in Shimano-land, and I don't know how old those nasty brakes
> would be.
>

Mid to late eighties.
 
In message <[email protected]>, Rob
<[email protected]> writes
>>> Wiggle list them on their site
>>>
>>>http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5300003397
>>>&N=Kool%20Stop%20Eagle%20II%20Pair%20Of%20Inserts
>>>
>>>
>>> Tony

>> Beat me to it!
>> They're in stock too (or at least they were last week when I got
>>some).

>
>Thanks all - I did look on the wiggle site but left dazed and confused.
>This is mine:
>
>http://patchoulian.googlepages.com/things
>
>I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy
>some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called
>them 'threaded' and 'canti'.
>
>Rob


I've got old brakes like this on my touring bike and on my utility bike
(a 1987 model MTB with cantis on the front and U-brakes on the back). I
think you'll find that threaded callipers blocks like these Aztecs will
fit:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=4000000018

(The Aztecs are widely available, and work fine but tend to squeak -
careful toe-ing-in is needed. Fibrax and Shimano calliper blocks will
probably also fit.) I've also JUST managed to squeeze V-brake blocks
onto the tourer's front brakes, though the lack of clearance between
fork and wheel made it a close-run thing.
 
In message <[email protected]>, Paul
Boyd <usenet.dont.work@plusnet.?.invalid> writes
>Rob Morley said the following on 16/07/2007 08:00:
>
>> ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or
>>similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come
>>first?

>
>U-brakes! I hope they've been consigned to the dustbin of history! Now
>you mention it, I do vaguely remember that these had threaded blocks.
>

My old bike's U-brakes have fantastic stopping power, and are going
strong after 20 years of abuse. When you're towing a loaded trailer you
need a good solid rear brake, and the U-brakes are the biz. The
manufacturers' big mistake was in fitting them to bikes designed for
wallowing in mud: they're in a vulnerable position and the arms collect
the crud. Used on-road, they're no problem.