carbon vs. aluminum
- Thread starter Fly1296
- Start date
Someday I'm going to have to just pick a bike, but today is not that day /img/vbsmilies/smilies/smile.gif
I'm sure the CAAD10 is old news to many on this forum, but it's new to me. I just stumbled across it yesterday while browsing Cannondale's site, and it got my immediate attention. Every review I've found has been glowing, and the prospect of stepping up to Rival within an Apex budget is irresistable. I understand that this will be a firmer ride than the carbon Synapse I rode last week.
Does anyone here have any experience with the CAAD10 at any build? I'm most interested in the ride impression.
I'm sure the CAAD10 is old news to many on this forum, but it's new to me. I just stumbled across it yesterday while browsing Cannondale's site, and it got my immediate attention. Every review I've found has been glowing, and the prospect of stepping up to Rival within an Apex budget is irresistable. I understand that this will be a firmer ride than the carbon Synapse I rode last week.
Does anyone here have any experience with the CAAD10 at any build? I'm most interested in the ride impression.
I do not have a CAAD10 but I do own a CAAD9 3. The CAAD is an awesome bike. The CAAD is very responsive and handles well. The design of the bike suggests that it is a racing machine. It is. A racing machine that you can ride all day long. You wont be disappointed take one out for a ride.
The part that you're chosing to ignore is really the most important part. Your back will care not what your frame is made of when you're riding down the road in pain and you'll suddenly care a little more when your suspect setup pitches too much weight on the front wheel when descending a steep hill.Originally Posted by Fly1296 .
I know this may seem like a silly question but stick with me
I'm on the proverbial fence betwixt high-end Al and entry CF. Namely Specialized Allez Comp vs. Tarmac SL2 Elite, as well as Giant TCR Comp vs. Defy 1. And yes I know the Giants are also comfort vs. racing geometries, but we'll ignore that for now. Anyway the price jump from the Al to the CF is $300-$400 in each case. Both brands offer the same components between the two, SRAM Apex for Specialized and new 105 for Giant. Naturally the CF frame will be lighter but LBS guys have said that all four will be 19-21 lbs as finished bikes. 2 lbs of weight savings just isn't enough on its own for me to be completely comfortable with the price jump. I don't know enough about the other components to intelligently compare. I also need a complete new rider equipment package (shoes, pedals, road kit, bottles etc), which could all be easily purchased with that same $300-$400. So what else would I be getting with the CF? Again, ignore geometry for now. I'm leaning more towars a race geometry but the Defy is still in the picture
Geometry isn't just a casual "I fancy a bit of this today..." whimsical decision unless you ride in tight black jeans and paint your rims pastel shades of awful...
Find your position and see what is available in your required size.
The CAAD10 is a stellar bike, especially for the money, the CAAD9's are just as good and can be had for killer prices. I like Cannondales cause they fit me well.
Over-inflated, too-skinny tires will make a ride feel much, much more uncomfortable than any frame material will. Virtually every diamond-shaped frame, no matter the material, is very, very stiff in the plane of motion over and after a bump. The stiffness of the design comes into play when you're mashing on the pedals and the frame flexes sideways. So I'd pick a frame that FITS you--that you will be able to make far more comfortable through adjustment and accessory choice than a poorly-fitting frame that "seems" more flexible.
Jason
Jason
Caad 10 aluminum with 105?... less than $1500 retail and lighter than many carbon bikes. Just about one of the nicest looking new bikes on the market imo.
If money is no issue, get the most you can afford.
If you need to save, go alu and spend the extra dough on extra shorts/bibs and cool accesories... you'll need that stuff anyway.
I got back into riding after a long layoff last year and ended up initially buying a 'new' steel Masi with 105, lovely bike, got many comments, came in at 22lbs. Very comfortable, but very wiggly in a sprint at full tilt. Started racing again and picked up an SL3, what an amazing bike. Too much bike for Cat5, YES. Finally settled on my lovely aluminum Cinelli Xperience with a blend of DA and Ultegra, and some 101's. It's a gorgeous bike but I am not afraid to a) crash in a sprint, b) throw it into the back of a van with a lot of other bikes, and c) get dropped on the off-chance I didn't do my homework and come in dead last looking like a total tool on a $5k bike... only on a $3k one /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif .
Despite the nonsense you hear on the park bench, a modern aluminum frame will last as long as you need it to.
If money is no issue, get the most you can afford.
If you need to save, go alu and spend the extra dough on extra shorts/bibs and cool accesories... you'll need that stuff anyway.
I got back into riding after a long layoff last year and ended up initially buying a 'new' steel Masi with 105, lovely bike, got many comments, came in at 22lbs. Very comfortable, but very wiggly in a sprint at full tilt. Started racing again and picked up an SL3, what an amazing bike. Too much bike for Cat5, YES. Finally settled on my lovely aluminum Cinelli Xperience with a blend of DA and Ultegra, and some 101's. It's a gorgeous bike but I am not afraid to a) crash in a sprint, b) throw it into the back of a van with a lot of other bikes, and c) get dropped on the off-chance I didn't do my homework and come in dead last looking like a total tool on a $5k bike... only on a $3k one /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif .
Despite the nonsense you hear on the park bench, a modern aluminum frame will last as long as you need it to.
How bout this one http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2011/Road/F-Series/F75.aspx ?
It has the race geometry... 105 components... and is a sweet looking bike. @$1500 MSRP Also, Felt is very good at standing behind thier product. A good freind of mine owns a shop and sells Felt and they are currently his favorite company to deal with.
Fuji also sells a Roubaix 1.0 in that range with 105 components... it's a nice bike too.
It has the race geometry... 105 components... and is a sweet looking bike. @$1500 MSRP Also, Felt is very good at standing behind thier product. A good freind of mine owns a shop and sells Felt and they are currently his favorite company to deal with.
Fuji also sells a Roubaix 1.0 in that range with 105 components... it's a nice bike too.
Buy the one that fits. End of story. 
Aside from that, if you can wait these are my thoughts (for what they're worth).
I really enjoy my carbon, but I bought it because I liked the way it rode compared to the other bikes I test drove. And I test drove a whole lot of bikes. I'm not saying the reason it rode best is because it's carbon. Just that you should buy the bike that feels best to you.
On the components, they are far, far cheaper up front than if you buy them incrementally. And if you're not versed in bike mechanics, can be somewhat of a hassle to upgrade the first time around…or even more expensive if you opt to pay your LBS to do so.
I was in the same price range you're quoting when I bought my Specialized Roubaix. I opted for the Triple Elite with 105's. The upgrade of the crank set to a Compact configuration cost more than what I would have paid extra initially if I'd purchased a model with those components.
I was perfectly happy with my 105's and the only reason I ended up with an Ultegra upgrade was due to some ridiculous sale/discount. My point is, if you think you'll ever want to upgrade your components just bite the bullet and do it up front. Even if it takes an extra month or two to save for the price increase.
The last factor would be weight. The only way I'd really let that be a deciding factor is if you planned on competing and you were down to your absolute minimum weight. Otherwise, it's just all around cheaper to drop 5lbs around the waste. If you're not competing…who even cares?
But again, the best bike is the bike that fits you and that you like to ride.
Aside from that, if you can wait these are my thoughts (for what they're worth).
I really enjoy my carbon, but I bought it because I liked the way it rode compared to the other bikes I test drove. And I test drove a whole lot of bikes. I'm not saying the reason it rode best is because it's carbon. Just that you should buy the bike that feels best to you.
On the components, they are far, far cheaper up front than if you buy them incrementally. And if you're not versed in bike mechanics, can be somewhat of a hassle to upgrade the first time around…or even more expensive if you opt to pay your LBS to do so.
I was in the same price range you're quoting when I bought my Specialized Roubaix. I opted for the Triple Elite with 105's. The upgrade of the crank set to a Compact configuration cost more than what I would have paid extra initially if I'd purchased a model with those components.
I was perfectly happy with my 105's and the only reason I ended up with an Ultegra upgrade was due to some ridiculous sale/discount. My point is, if you think you'll ever want to upgrade your components just bite the bullet and do it up front. Even if it takes an extra month or two to save for the price increase.
The last factor would be weight. The only way I'd really let that be a deciding factor is if you planned on competing and you were down to your absolute minimum weight. Otherwise, it's just all around cheaper to drop 5lbs around the waste. If you're not competing…who even cares?
But again, the best bike is the bike that fits you and that you like to ride.
http://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/newestpost/483426
I believe this was the last time he posted about buying his bike. Chc out the thread.
I am sitting here thinking about my bicycling over the past few months. I see a lot of riders. I cannot tell you what frame material or component group any of them have. But I can tell you which ones are good by looking at their legs.
I ride a low end aluminum frame (under $300). My previous frame was carbon fiber Orbea (more expensive than your budget) - it died in a horrible car/bike accident that almost did me in. The components are Campy - I wanted hidden brake and shifter cables). The cassettes are Shimano - makes all my wheels interchangeable.. My other bike (from the 80's) has a mix of components.
If you have the legs, any bike will serve you well. If you don't have the legs, no bike will make you look good.
I ride a low end aluminum frame (under $300). My previous frame was carbon fiber Orbea (more expensive than your budget) - it died in a horrible car/bike accident that almost did me in. The components are Campy - I wanted hidden brake and shifter cables). The cassettes are Shimano - makes all my wheels interchangeable.. My other bike (from the 80's) has a mix of components.
If you have the legs, any bike will serve you well. If you don't have the legs, no bike will make you look good.
Yes, I don't think anyone in the world will dispute the statement that Sheldon is the greatest help in the history of cycling.
He never failed to take time to reply to any email. I know that he helped me on a couple of occasions, and I was and am a nobody.
He always had a kind word and his website, alive today via his friends and family, show his wonders of organized thought and logic and good humor.
He got me enthused enough to make a beginner's tutorial, and it happens to be about the old school B.B. or bottom bracket,
not what you roadies use, but, it worked in 1900, and hundreds of millions of bikes still grind them today. I thought of Sheldon when talking,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVWBEI1rvjk
He never failed to take time to reply to any email. I know that he helped me on a couple of occasions, and I was and am a nobody.
He always had a kind word and his website, alive today via his friends and family, show his wonders of organized thought and logic and good humor.
He got me enthused enough to make a beginner's tutorial, and it happens to be about the old school B.B. or bottom bracket,
not what you roadies use, but, it worked in 1900, and hundreds of millions of bikes still grind them today. I thought of Sheldon when talking,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVWBEI1rvjk
For ride quality I love the carbon fibre (and yeah, the bikesdirect CF Motobecane probably falls in low end even though it's monocoque)
For acceleration you can't beat the stiff CF bottom bracket.
That said: IF it goes down you're looking at a new frame and fork.
If I were going with non CF I'd go with a triple butted steel alloy from reynolds or columbus. At the end of a metric or centruy your body will thank you.
For acceleration you can't beat the stiff CF bottom bracket.
That said: IF it goes down you're looking at a new frame and fork.
If I were going with non CF I'd go with a triple butted steel alloy from reynolds or columbus. At the end of a metric or centruy your body will thank you.
Similar threads
- Poll
