Cassettes ??

"MAX" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

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I had some repairs done recently, unfortunatley a) they didnt use the

parts

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asked for b) I was abroad and had little time to argue, and subsequently

no

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comeback.

i had a new cassette, chain, large front ring, and new freewheel on back wheel. as soon as i put
it into the smallest rear cog it started skipping,

I

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took it back they replaced with a "better" chain and now it skips one turn in 50.

I replaced the chain yesterday ( Id only done an extra 60km on the setup) with a much better
chain, but the bugger still skips. Ive had a look at

the

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nameless cassette and it looks knackered already.

Im pretty much limited to shimano gear, any recommendations on cassettee

??)

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One shop has advised me to go with a 105, I told him I thought it was a

road

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bike part, and he reckoned it was the best to go for ??? advise if poss ?? \ thanks

dave

Check your chain. I had a similar problem last time I replaced everything, and it turned out that
the link in the chain where I had riveted it together was slightly stiff. Not easy to spot, but it
didn't quite straighten out when it came off the top jockey wheel onto the rear sprocket, and this
was just enough to cause skipping on the two smallest cogs when under load. I had to move the rivet
back and fro until it was just in the right position, then it was OK. If you haven't ridden too far
it probably won't have damaged your cogs too much. Maybe.

FWIW I went for Shimano chain, 9 speed cassette (can't remember which model - does HG53 sound
right?) and Shimano rings. I wanted a higher top gear so I've now got 22 36 48 on the front and
11-32 on the back. In order to accommodate the possibility that I might accidentally select 48/32
I've had to leave the chain quite long. This makes for a rather slack chain on the granny ring but
it seems to work fine now I've got the chain moving freely.

Hope this helps. Of course, your problem may be caused by something quite different, in which case
it won't help. Cheers, Twohat (because two heads are better than one)

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One shop has advised me to go with a 105, I told him I thought it was a

road

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bike part, and he reckoned it was the best to go for ???

Nothing wrong with running a road block on a mountain bike, rather having a silly amount of range
you end up with a closer ratio ... this giving cleaner shifting ... and they are made out of the
same material so last exactly the same amount of time

--
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Live fast, crash faster

mtbbikes.co.ukmtbbikes.co.ukOpen ↗

"Chris Garwood" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

One shop has advised me to go with a 105, I told him I thought it was a

road

Quoted message said:

bike part, and he reckoned it was the best to go for ???

Nothing wrong with running a road block on a mountain bike, rather having

a

Quoted message said:

silly amount of range you end up with a closer ratio ... this giving

cleaner

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shifting ... and they are made out of the same material so last exactly

the

Quoted message said:

same amount of time

--
===========================================================

Live fast, crash faster

mtbbikes.co.ukmtbbikes.co.ukOpen ↗

ok thanks for the responses guys. Unfortunately I got a little ripped in the shop that did the
repairs. I took it to a decent lbs near work, told the guy id asked for good spec parts, and he
[censored] himself when he saw the cassette. Apparently it is a / was a koch (???) and should only be
used with grip shift (?). Anyway he had an sram 7 and popped it on, now its smooth as can be. I
stuck a new chain on, and did pay special attention to the rivot pin, with a little care it is as
free as can be

thanks again

max