B
Bill Baka
Guest
Peter Cole wrote:
<Big snip again>
>
> The typical incandescent flashlight has terrible beam uniformity, many
> bike lights I've seen are almost as bad. I'm shining one of the old
> Cateye HL-500 (2-C battery) lights on the wall as I type, it has a
> reflector that's wider than tall (~2"x1") and has lens elements molded
> (vertically oriented cylindrical lenses to spread the beam sideways and
> a central circular lens to give a bright spot -- shifted slightly below
> axis to make the spot "bottom heavy") it's very uneven, although a
> somewhat useful shape. You can clearly see the projected image of the
> bulb top (dim center in bright spot). It's just not as effective as the
> LED light as far as uniform light beam goes. I find it harder to pick
> out shadowed objects when the beam has so many artifacts.
I have my Cateye Hl-EL300 with me and it has about a 10 degree beam
spread. Each of the 5 LEDs has a lens in front of it and has about a 5
degree beam per LED. Together they form a beam that is slightly more
wide than high so I can see a bit off the side of the road. More than 15
degrees there is no light on the road but enough for a person to see
that the light is on. The LEDs are mounted on a circuit board and I can
wiggle them a bit to fine tune the pattern and could probably make a 5
degree spot light out of it, but why bother? I have it aimed to hit the
road about 40 feet in front of me and the residual light makes the road
almost under me visible so I have no complaints for a light that I only
use at a maximum speed of 18 to 20 MPH, and usually just about 12 MPH.
Why nit pick?
Bill Baka
<Big snip again>
>
> The typical incandescent flashlight has terrible beam uniformity, many
> bike lights I've seen are almost as bad. I'm shining one of the old
> Cateye HL-500 (2-C battery) lights on the wall as I type, it has a
> reflector that's wider than tall (~2"x1") and has lens elements molded
> (vertically oriented cylindrical lenses to spread the beam sideways and
> a central circular lens to give a bright spot -- shifted slightly below
> axis to make the spot "bottom heavy") it's very uneven, although a
> somewhat useful shape. You can clearly see the projected image of the
> bulb top (dim center in bright spot). It's just not as effective as the
> LED light as far as uniform light beam goes. I find it harder to pick
> out shadowed objects when the beam has so many artifacts.
I have my Cateye Hl-EL300 with me and it has about a 10 degree beam
spread. Each of the 5 LEDs has a lens in front of it and has about a 5
degree beam per LED. Together they form a beam that is slightly more
wide than high so I can see a bit off the side of the road. More than 15
degrees there is no light on the road but enough for a person to see
that the light is on. The LEDs are mounted on a circuit board and I can
wiggle them a bit to fine tune the pattern and could probably make a 5
degree spot light out of it, but why bother? I have it aimed to hit the
road about 40 feet in front of me and the residual light makes the road
almost under me visible so I have no complaints for a light that I only
use at a maximum speed of 18 to 20 MPH, and usually just about 12 MPH.
Why nit pick?
Bill Baka