Note, hot waxing isn't for everyone. You have to be a bit anal to enjoy this ritual. ;-)
My hot waxing is done with the chain still on the bike. Low flame propane torch, a "crayon" of wax/oil blend (about 5% oil), and a chunk of sheet metal to protect the bike from the torch.
How do you make this oil/wax candle? What kind of oil, and wax? Thanks.
Paraffin wax with about 5% oil dissolved in it will NOT squeak after a wet ride. It stays clean, and needs replacement only after several hundred miles.
How long do your chains last? Other drivetrain parts?
"Benjamin Lewis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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Art M. said:
I bought a KMC "stretchproof" Z chain last year. (I looked at the guy in my LBS incredulously as he recited the marketing ploy, but figured I would support them with my $20) After 5000 road miles it has stretched less than a 32nd of an inch. Is anyone else getting similar results? I often go more than 2 weeks (4 rides/wk) without oiling. I've taken it
off
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once to soak in solvent and then in multipurpose 3-in-one oil.
Does it have full bushings?
-- Benjamin Lewis
I regret to say that we of the FBI are powerless to act in cases of oral-genital intimacy, unless it has in some way obstructed interstate commerce. -- J. Edgar Hoover
No. Anyway, according to Sheldon Brown's article http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html bushingless lasts longer. It's an 8 spd chain, inner plates blackish, outer shiny. Has a connector that looks similar to SRAM's.
One important detail is that it's completely flat here. I don't have to shift very often and I'm always in my big ring.
I have two theorys why the roadbike chain is always black. Possibly a combination of them 1. It doesn't get clean enough since I clean it on the bike and the wax doesn't get a chance to penetrate all the way down to the metal. Instead it mixes out with what's left of the degreaser and stays forever wet.
Likely, in my opinion.
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2. Rubber dust from car tires and motor oil on the road splatters all over my clean chain and just gunks it up faster than I can clean it.
Unlikely in my opinion; if there was enough oil on the road to contaminate your chain, it would show up on the downtube, tires, and your back first...and tire dust is neither going to stick without an agent to cause it to adhere, nor common enough to account for the crud.
You and Matt are probably correct in pointing out number 1. I just cleaned my DA chain by removing and putting in a bottle. When I was done it didn't feel like it was really 100% clean. Like I could still wipe off black smudge from the sideplates. When I had everything reassembled the dry lube I put on came off as black when I wiped the chain dry. I suppose I'm just being cheap on the degreaser, will try something stronger next time. Probably the reason my MTB chain does get cleaner is because it doesn't wear as much due to less mileage. Or possibly a difference between SRAM PC69 and Shimano DA.
You and Matt are probably correct in pointing out number 1. I just cleaned my DA chain by removing and putting in a bottle. When I was done it didn't feel like it was really 100% clean. Like I could still wipe off black smudge from the sideplates. When I had everything reassembled the dry lube I put on came off as black when I wiped the chain dry. I suppose I'm just being cheap on the degreaser, will try something stronger next time. Probably the reason my MTB chain does get cleaner is because it doesn't wear as much due to less mileage. Or possibly a difference between SRAM PC69 and Shimano DA.
-- Perre
You have to be smarter than a robot to reply.
Be careful with strong degreasers, I left my DA chain too long in the bath and then it was really clean, but it became quite darker. The degreaser I used is the Motorex Bike Clean, which is supposed to be used on frame and other components too. Too bad...
John Everett <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
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If you can get 2000 miles of quiet smooth shifting out of a chain by just spraying it out and wiping it down you really have nothing to complain about though.
If I were only getting 2000 miles of riding out of a chain I'd be complaining bitterly! :-(
How do you make this oil/wax candle? What kind of oil, and wax? Thanks.
I made it up years ago. I've done it twice, once with just motor oil, the other with SAE 90 gear lube. (I forget which I'm using now, it's been so long.) Both times, the remainder was just paraffin wax, as used for canning jelly, etc. You can get it at a grocery store.
I just melted the wax in a disposable pan and stirred in a little oil, then let it freeze. Occasionally I cut another chunk out to use as a "crayon."
-- --------------------+ Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com, replace with cc.ysu dot edu]
Paraffin wax with about 5% oil dissolved in it will NOT squeak after a wet ride. It stays clean, and needs replacement only after several hundred miles.
How long do your chains last? Other drivetrain parts?
Honestly, I'd have to dig out detailed mileage records for an accurate answer. I'd guess I replace chains maybe every other year, and smaller cogs maybe every other chain. I typically ride 2500 miles per year, most of it on two bikes.
In any case, the chain & cog life is plenty to satisfy me, and the lack of grunge all over the bike and drive train is nice. It's far better than when I used oil-based lubes.
-- --------------------+ Frank Krygowski [To reply, remove rodent and vegetable dot com, replace with cc.ysu dot edu]
In article <tf%wc.17382$Sw.8362@attbi_s51>, "Larry" <[email hidden]>
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Any comments on chain lube ? I use White Lighting and it turns black before I even ride. (And Yes the chain is removed and steam cleaned) Can't anyone make a lube that stays clean for a few days. I don't want to use motor oil. Any other suggestions ?
How utterly wasteful. Even my mountain bike chains last well over a year.
I only get 2000 miles out of a chain. that's about 2.5 chains a year.
-- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
brake cleaner works really well. just put the chain in a shallow bowl and spray away three or 4 times it is clean and dry in a couple of minutes.
-- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
I use parrafin (candle wax). Stays clean and sheds water longer than ay spray on lube I've used. Lasts as long as a goot coat of 3-in1 oil, and doesn't get dirty. It does take a bit of effort to lube the chaincorrectly so it gets between the links, however. simply dipping the chain will not do it. You'll just coat the outside of the chain.
The "Tech-Tips" section of my website has a detailed explination of how to correctly wax a chain. Follow the link in my signature if you'r interested.
- -
"May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills!"
Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"
Brake cleaner works really well. Just put the chain in a shallow bowl and spray away three or 4 times it is clean and dry in a couple of minutes.
It may be externally clean but if it is not immersed in liquid, internal grit will not come out. Internal grit will only be moistened and remain. I find that most cleaning descriptions focus on external appearance and, I believe, therein lies the problem of rapidly wearing chains.
On Wed, 9 Jun 2004 02:18:14 -0400, "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]>
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Frank Krygowski said:
Paraffin wax with about 5% oil dissolved in it will NOT squeak after a wet ride. It stays clean, and needs replacement only after several hundred miles.
How long do your chains last? Other drivetrain parts?
Brake cleaner works really well. Just put the chain in a shallow bowl and spray away three or 4 times it is clean and dry in a couple of minutes.
It may be externally clean but if it is not immersed in liquid, internal grit will not come out. Internal grit will only be moistened and remain. I find that most cleaning descriptions focus on external appearance and, I believe, therein lies the problem of rapidly wearing chains. Jobst Brandt [email hidden]
So true. You can sometimes feel the grit left behind when a chain is sprayed clean.
A soaking and shaking in solvent will ALWAYS render considerable dirt. And if you think that is clean, try hitting it with a soak in solvent with ultrasonic agitation.
It may be externally clean but if it is not immersed in liquid, internal grit will not come out. Internal grit will only be moistened and remain. I find that most cleaning descriptions focus on external appearance and, I believe, therein lies the problem of rapidly wearing chains.
it is immersed that's why I use a bowl. the chain is really clean after 3 or 4 sprays. I shake it around to get all the gunk out. it's sure cleaner then the 15 minutes I used on the parts washer. I even tried a parts steam cleaner.
-- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 22:52:03 -0400, [email hidden] (Chris Zacho "The
Wheelman') said:
I use parrafin (candle wax). Stays clean and sheds water longer than ay spray on lube I've used. Lasts as long as a goot coat of 3-in1 oil, and doesn't get dirty. It does take a bit of effort to lube the chaincorrectly so it gets between the links, however. simply dipping the chain will not do it. You'll just coat the outside of the chain.
looks like only a hour of rain? I have several lubes that do that. I found only one that will give me 3 or 4 hours of rain (3 or 4 rides in the rain) I sure would not have to rewax every day in the winter.
-- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Brake cleaner works really well. Just put the chain in a
shallow bowl > > and spray away three or 4 times it is clean and dry in a couple of > > minutes.
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It may be externally clean but if it is not immersed in liquid,
internal > grit will not come out. Internal grit will only be moistened and remain. > I find that most cleaning descriptions focus on external appearance and, > I believe, therein lies the problem of rapidly wearing chains. > Jobst Brandt [email hidden]
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So true. You can sometimes feel the grit left behind when a chain is sprayed clean.
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A soaking and shaking in solvent will ALWAYS render considerable dirt. And if you think that is clean, try hitting it with a soak in solvent with ultrasonic agitation.
The real test is if after cleaning, fresh fluid remains clear. Before I started using a parts cleaner can, I would shake the chain in a jar with some strong solvent. It took several fluid changes to come clean. I know the parts cleaner works because I tried the old jar test afterward. No dirt. The parts cleaner fluid works well, probably because it's designed to remove exactly the type of oily crud that's on a bicycle chain.
-- No non-oil-based lube keeps the chain from getting noisy after a wet ride, and most must be applied daly in order to do anything at all.
Paraffin wax with about 5% oil dissolved in it will NOT squeak after a wet ride. It stays clean, and needs replacement only after several hundred miles.
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I use parafin too, but without the oil. It lasts a full season. No signs of wear and tear over the last ten years.
Paraffin wax with about 5% oil dissolved in it will NOT squeak after a wet ride. It stays clean, and needs replacement only after several hundred miles.
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How long do your chains last? Other drivetrain parts?