chain pops off - going up hill impossible now.

[bikeguy]

Here's the problem: my old Nishiki Sora that I use as a winter bike had a problem where the chain would occasionally come off (right off!) if I really hammered the pedals. The problem is worse now and I'm no longer able to climb a hill at any speed really.. the problem is worse in the small chainring and on the big rear cog gears, if I use those I can't get anywhere. If I use the best gear combination it still comes off, going up a 6+% grade is impossible. This bike has seen at least 10,000 km without any drive train replacement.

I've been to the bike shop and the guy says probably needs a replacement of rear cog and possibly front chainring and/or chain replacement.
I agree about the chain, I think it's seen 10,000 km now, but what about the other stuff? Is bike shop guy trying to rip me off? A chain and rear and front gear replacement is going to be big $$.

-Bikeguy

 

[bikeguy]

Here's the problem: my old Nishiki Sora that I use as a winter bike had a problem where the chain would occasionally come off (right off!) if I really hammered the pedals. The problem is worse now and I'm no longer able to climb a hill at any speed really.. the problem is worse in the small chainring and on the big rear cog gears, if I use those I can't get anywhere. If I use the best gear combination it still comes off, going up a 6+% grade is impossible. This bike has seen at least 10,000 km without any drive train replacement.

I've been to the bike shop and the guy says probably needs a replacement of rear cog and possibly front chainring and/or chain replacement.
I agree about the chain, I think it's seen 10,000 km now, but what about the other stuff? Is bike shop guy trying to rip me off? A chain and rear and front gear replacement is going to be big $$.

-Bikeguy

 

[CDAKIAHONDA]

Should have thought about that sooner, a worn chain wears drivetrain components, and a worn drivetrain will wear the new chain faster. What happens is that the chain spacing doesn't match. Pony up the dinero, pounds, euros, or bucks, and then get on a reasonable chain cleaning, lubing, and replacement schedule. Then hammer away up those hills again!

 

[CDAKIAHONDA]

Should have thought about that sooner, a worn chain wears drivetrain components, and a worn drivetrain will wear the new chain faster. What happens is that the chain spacing doesn't match. Pony up the dinero, pounds, euros, or bucks, and then get on a reasonable chain cleaning, lubing, and replacement schedule. Then hammer away up those hills again!

 

[bikeguy]

Should have thought about that sooner, a worn chain wears drivetrain components, and a worn drivetrain will wear the new chain faster. What happens is that the chain spacing doesn't match. Pony up the dinero, pounds, euros, or bucks, and then get on a reasonable chain cleaning, lubing, and replacement schedule. Then hammer away up those hills again!

Yeah, after doing a google search it looks like (at least) the chain and rear cogs need replacement. I used to be bad at oiling, but these days do it about every 3 times I ride. I'm not so good at the cleaning thing, but have managed to do it a few times (including taking the chain off and completely cleaning the little gear thingy's on the derailleur). Oh well. I'll be opening the euro tap to the bike shop.

-Bikeguy

 

[bikeguy]

Should have thought about that sooner, a worn chain wears drivetrain components, and a worn drivetrain will wear the new chain faster. What happens is that the chain spacing doesn't match. Pony up the dinero, pounds, euros, or bucks, and then get on a reasonable chain cleaning, lubing, and replacement schedule. Then hammer away up those hills again!

Yeah, after doing a google search it looks like (at least) the chain and rear cogs need replacement. I used to be bad at oiling, but these days do it about every 3 times I ride. I'm not so good at the cleaning thing, but have managed to do it a few times (including taking the chain off and completely cleaning the little gear thingy's on the derailleur). Oh well. I'll be opening the euro tap to the bike shop.

-Bikeguy

 

[aa9t8]

just finished an intro repair course
the instructor said buy cheap chain and throw it away every 2000kms if you change just the chain now it will not work and vice vesus. ya gotta do the whole shot

 

[aa9t8]

just finished an intro repair course
the instructor said buy cheap chain and throw it away every 2000kms if you change just the chain now it will not work and vice vesus. ya gotta do the whole shot

 

[alienator]

just finished an intro repair course
the instructor said buy cheap chain and throw it away every 2000kms if you change just the chain now it will not work and vice vesus. ya gotta do the whole shot

The instructor is a dillhole. If you keep a chain lubed there is absolutely NO reason to through it out after 2000kms, unless you think filling landfills is a groovy thing. My Campy C10 chain is nearing 6000 miles (9656 km) and is in perfect shape.

No mechanic worth his salt would advise someone to just chuck the chain out the window every 2000km. Just 'cuz a guy's an instructor doesn't mean that he knows what he's talking about.

 

[alienator]

just finished an intro repair course
the instructor said buy cheap chain and throw it away every 2000kms if you change just the chain now it will not work and vice vesus. ya gotta do the whole shot

The instructor is a dillhole. If you keep a chain lubed there is absolutely NO reason to through it out after 2000kms, unless you think filling landfills is a groovy thing. My Campy C10 chain is nearing 6000 miles (9656 km) and is in perfect shape.

No mechanic worth his salt would advise someone to just chuck the chain out the window every 2000km. Just 'cuz a guy's an instructor doesn't mean that he knows what he's talking about.

 

[dhk]

The instructor is a dillhole. If you keep a chain lubed there is absolutely NO reason to through it out after 2000kms, unless you think filling landfills is a groovy thing. My Campy C10 chain is nearing 6000 miles (9656 km) and is in perfect shape.

No mechanic worth his salt would advise someone to just chuck the chain out the window every 2000km. Just 'cuz a guy's an instructor doesn't mean that he knows what he's talking about.

Yeah, I'd advice to buy a good chain, monitor it for wear, and run it until it needs replacing. You can use a steel rule to measure for 1/8" stretch over 12" of chain. Or, just get a $9 Park CC-3 gauge. It's simple to drop on the chain and check whenever you want...takes 10 seconds. When the gauge drops in, it's time to replace.

My SRAM PC-99 chains go 6000 miles before the 0.75% wear side of the gauge drops in. Certainly would be a waste to replace them early, like changing tires every 1200 miles whether they are worn or not.

 

[dhk]

The instructor is a dillhole. If you keep a chain lubed there is absolutely NO reason to through it out after 2000kms, unless you think filling landfills is a groovy thing. My Campy C10 chain is nearing 6000 miles (9656 km) and is in perfect shape.

No mechanic worth his salt would advise someone to just chuck the chain out the window every 2000km. Just 'cuz a guy's an instructor doesn't mean that he knows what he's talking about.

Yeah, I'd advice to buy a good chain, monitor it for wear, and run it until it needs replacing. You can use a steel rule to measure for 1/8" stretch over 12" of chain. Or, just get a $9 Park CC-3 gauge. It's simple to drop on the chain and check whenever you want...takes 10 seconds. When the gauge drops in, it's time to replace.

My SRAM PC-99 chains go 6000 miles before the 0.75% wear side of the gauge drops in. Certainly would be a waste to replace them early, like changing tires every 1200 miles whether they are worn or not.

 

[hd reynolds]

The instructor is a dillhole. If you keep a chain lubed there is absolutely NO reason to through it out after 2000kms, unless you think filling landfills is a groovy thing. My Campy C10 chain is nearing 6000 miles (9656 km) and is in perfect shape.

No mechanic worth his salt would advise someone to just chuck the chain out the window every 2000km. Just 'cuz a guy's an instructor doesn't mean that he knows what he's talking about.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...therefore the best way is to make it a habit to check the chain every xthousand kms., say every 1000 (regular racers recommend every 500kms.).

To check if the chain needs changing apply the 1% rule. Chainlinks are spaced 1/2 in. Therefore 24 links should measure 12inches (a foot). If the chain has stretched at least 1% of this, it is wise to change it. 1% of 12 inches is about 1/8 in.

 

[bikeguy]

Thanks for the chain replacement tips, guys. I've figured out whats wrong though, I turned the bike upside down and examined the cog and the chainrings, didn't seem to look worn (I hear shark-fin like appearance is bad). None of the chainring teeth are missing bits or anything like that. Turned the crank around and noticed the chain was wobbling in a regular fashion, i.e, one point causing the problem. Examined the chain and noticed one of the links about to come right out! Looks like I was close to snapping it. Definitely need a chain replacement. In terms of looseness, I can pull it more then an inch up without the derailleur moving - I definitely think this chain has served as long as it can.

-Bikeguy